Manual Choke Question
I recently had my carb "rebuilt" and realized I do not have a clue where the manual choke cable attaches to the carb. After I did some thinking I realized that it never was connected when I bought the truck. This wasn't a big deal in the summer but now that it is 15 degrees when I try to start the truck it becomes quite the hassle. So I was hoping that someone could tell me where the cable attaches. I took some pictures of my carburetor and hopefully they will show the proper location for it to attach.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jake
Pic1
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n26/wheressinatra/101_0634.jpg
Pic2
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n26/wheressinatra/101_0633.jpg
Pic3
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n26/wheressinatra/101_0632.jpg
You carb has an electric choke. It is the black round disc looking thingie on the passenger side of the carb. It should have two spade connectors on it one with a + beside of it and the other a - beside of it.
The - is for the ground and the + is from a wire connected through the ignition switch.
One of our more astute members here can direct you to the proper wire to use for the +.
John
If anyone has any advice on how to hook up the automatic choke I will really appreciate it. Thanks and I would be happy to answer any questions/take more pictures.
Thanks Again,
Jake
I snapped some more pictures and hopefully they will show the two holes you are talking about. If these are the correct holes could somebody verify this and if not could someone point me towards the correct holes. For the tube between the holes can I just buy a length of vacuum line or is a special type of tube required?
Thanks for the help
Pic1 (carb)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n26/wheressinatra/carbpic1.jpg
Pic2 (exhaust manifold)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n26/wheressinatra/exhaustpic1.jpg
Lastly, do you just jam it down the holes or does it attach somehow?
Thanks.
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...138531&width=0
The choke housing itself is grounded through the choke housing hold down ring.
The power to the choke comes from the STATOR connection on the Alternator as it need power only when the engine is RUNNING otherwise the choke coil would fry from too much/too long voltage.
If you prefer to install a manual choke the cable connects to the choke linkage with a cable Screw/Nut.
Now the same photo....only the heat choke tube is pointed out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...138532&width=0
Some people use stainless brake line bent into shape.
The key here is the Inset of the tube into the EXH. manifold is smaller than the tube itself.
Aupt parts store sell Generic Heat Tube Lits. Look for them hanging in the H.E.L.P. section of parts.
You can buy Copper Tubing that will work in this application as well.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jan 9, 2007 at 05:12 PM.
Even electric chokes have heated vacuum assist.
Here is the One his probably has .....only this is of a 4v.
in this case ...Same thing though.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...134518&width=0
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jan 9, 2007 at 05:27 PM.
I went out bought some steel line and a fitting and made what it sounded like was being described. Unfortunately I do not notice this changing anything when trying to start my truck. I will mess with the choke spring thing (round black disc w/ Lean written on it) when my truck's engine is cold again (all that trying to start warmed it up). Any other advice? Would be nice to get this working so I can stop waking up neighbors every morning with my nursing of the gas pedal until the engine decides to continue idleing on it's own.
I posted some pics of the choke device and if anyone sees any flaws in it please tell me so I can fix it.
Thanks for pointing out the trans dipstick too.
Thanks,
Jake
Photo 1
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/101_0640.jpg
Photo 2
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/101_0641.jpg
Photo3
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/101_0642.jpg
If you continue to have problems, you might want to see if an all-electric choke conversion kit is available. Or, disconnect the rod from the choke housing to the choke plate and hook up your manual cable (trouble-free, but you gotta remember to push the **** in).
Steve

This might be a way for you to go if you want to stay with manual choke. As for your setup on the truck now, with the engine cold and the throttle slightly cracked open (to avoid any interference with the fast idle cam) loosen the hold-down screws on the black plastic choke housing and turn it toward rich till the choke is just fully closed, then tighten the screws.
Then I'd shorten up the tube and insulate it. It might be losing too much heat by the time it makes it clear up to the carb, and you need that heat to work on the spring inside the plastic housing and pull the choke open as the engine warms up.









