We have a burned bulb (or more than one) in the dash for fuel and temp (whatever is below... truck is at home).

I've read through the Haynes manual and looked on line, but can't find a good answer. I can find the procedure for removing the instrument cluster, which takes about 2 hours and requires removing the headlight switch.

Are the light bulbs in the instrument panel user changeable or do they require special tools or similar? I've seen the threads on changing instrument clusters, which requires reprogramming the cluster. Before I take apart the dash, I'd like to know if I need anything else.

AutoZone, Advance and Sylvania did not list instrument panel bulbs. Any sources (other than the dealer) to suggest?

-Eric

 

Eric, I'm having the same issues as you with my '98. I think only two are working at most (lol), but I do need to find the info on type of bulb, etc.. They say 2 hours huh, that stinks. But hopefully someone will answer.

Phil

 

I called the dealer... IP bulbs are $1.90-something. I'll let you know when I work on the dash how bad it is.

 

The cluster is EASY to remove. You will need to remove the upper trim piece that is below the cluster and above the column. It just pulls off. Then remove the screws along the top of the cluster trim and remove the headlight switch to finish removing all of the screws. The cluster trim surround should pull right off. After that, remove 4 screws holding the cluster in and out it comes. It should only take you 15 minutes to get the cluster out.

 

Thanks Eric, and MisterCMK;

Did they happen to give you a part # for the bulbs, most likely can find them cheaper on-line then going to the dealer.

Also, Eric have you tackled the job yet?

 

Hi Phil -

I changed the bulbs out earlier today. At the suggestion of the dealer, I changed all 5 IP bulbs at the same time. I'd rather change a few early rather than need to go back in a few weeks and change one that I skimped on.

My existing bulbs were marked E7 GE 194, the new ones were marked HTB4 194E. They are basically two piece bulbs, with a removable base an a bulb that inserts into the base. The ones from the dealer included the base... I suspect if you wanted to, you could remove one and match to something in stock rather than buy the bulb + base.

Basically, you want to follow the procedure listed in the Haynes or similar manual to remove the headlight switch and instrument cluster. I might put masking tape or similar on the steering column to avoid scuff marks when you remove the cluster... also, if possible, protect the cluster plastic face to avoid scratching it as well.

Remove the headlight switch first, then the instrument trim around the steering column, the trim around the cluster and then remove the cluster itself. You will probably need to remove the shift indicator before removing the cluster.

Once you remove the cluster, remove the three connector blocks on the back side. You can see the wire traces on the back of the cluster. You should see 5 black plastic elements with something like IL or ILL next to them. You rotate them CCW maybe an eigth of a turn and they should be removable.

Tool wise, you will need a 7 mm socket for the interior trim screws, 8 mm socket for the battery connections, a thin screwdriver for the headlight switch, and a pair of pliers to remove the bulb bases from the instrument cluster.

When I reassembled the truck and attached the batter, the left turn signal started flashing, so I redid everything. Still flashed. Stuck the key in the ignition and everything worked correctly, the turn signals stopped sticking in the on position. Not quite sure what that was about...

Including taking it apart twice, including once for the first time, it took me about an hour and a half.

Good luck.

-Eric

 

Eric,

Thanks for taking the time to respond in such a detailed way. I'm going to either find them online or call the dealer and most likely tackle the job in the next couple of weeks or so.
I'll comment when i finish the job and hopefully it will go as smooth as yours

-Phil

 

you can go to wal-mart and get 194 bulbs for a couple of dollars. Just use the existing bulb bases that are already there.

 

Or, I could do that! Thanks!!

 

You can go on the Auto Zone website and find them. The bulbs for the dash are the same bulbs for the running boards and the rear plate lights. Like before, it should take you no more that 30min to pull and change all the bulbs in the cluster.

 

Well I took the plunge and worked on the lights yesterday. Taking apart the dash was pretty straight forward with the headlight switch taking a couple of extra minutes so I wouldn't break it in the 25 degree weather. (I heated the cabin before hand). The one part that I was concerned about was the two screws on the right hand side that were recessed pretty deep and if they dropped they would be lost forever. So I plugged up the side with a small rag. The part that took me the longest was trying to get the shift indicator off and moving it out of the way.
One suggestion that would make it even easier would be to chock your rear tires and put the tranmission in low 1. This gives needed room.
Only one bulb out of five was working, I have no idea how my wife could take driving like that. but anyway. Replaced all the bulbs and put everything back together. Put the battery back on, turned it on and I think one of the bulbs I replaced isn't working. So my suggestion would be to check the bulbs before finishing the final install. As I am going to have to do it all over again.

 

yea...this "gotta"be done on my truck....

took dash apart couple times but didnt remove cluster. i know for sure light switch you gotta be patient,theres a lever behind it on left side of switch...has to be pushed in to remove switch easily,tricky. then theres trans idicator.

hard to do with doors shut....

194 bulbs it is TXS for info

 

If you're about to do this, then do yourself a favour and use LEDs for the replacement. It will reduce the heat buildup inside there, plus they will most likely outlast the truck unless you go too cheap on the LEDs.. Just test before reassembling, to ensure they work as they need correct polarity