What are the chances of you breaking a plug if you decide to clean them at 25-30k? I hate to break one just because of a preventative measure. That would kinda go against, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

I just pulled mine at 25k miles this past weekend...I followed the TSB with the exception of letting the penetrating oil soak for at least 30 min--the longer it soaked the easier the plugs came out. I used PB Blaster penetrating oil as I couldn't find a place to buy Kroil.

I didn't replace the plugs just cleaned, applied a thin coat of anti-sieze, and re-installed. At 25k miles I think the plugs are fine.

 

Jeff...from what I understand these new plugs require a new specialized socket, is that what you used and where did you purchase it?

 

Cav,

Look back a few pages at my posts. I listed the part number of a spark plug socket specifically for this plug. Only about $11 bucks. Bought one on line. Should get it shortly.

CMOS

 

what happened to the good ol' days of the simple V8. The days when changing plugs were simple as turing a socket. One question... Those plugs that cost around $15 bucks each, are they the actual plugs that Ford produces or are they aftermarket?

 

Got it, thanks.

 

Krazymatt - the problem is with fuel formulas today, they contain high oxidants, such as MTB and Alcohol, the by product is carbon. It's not a valve issue.

 

sorry cmos. I understand your point, but I am still very curious what fuel people who are having problems are running. I have seen engines that have used nothing but arco gas and they combustion chambers and piston tops where full of foul carbon. I have seen the same type engine with as many miles that used good gas that where clean. There are other variables such as how it was driven, but fuel is one of them. No one seems to want to answer the question makes me suspicious

 

Fuel and driving habits make a difference but they still build up carbon to some extent.
I'll give you an example, I pulled the plugs out of a coworkers truck with 70,000 miles on it without using any penetrating oil. They all came out without breaking one of them.
This truck is driven 50 miles one way to work mostly on the E-way and is very well maintained. The plugs had carbon build up on them, just not enough to cause them to stick.
Short trips and towing can cause more carbon build up.

 

CMOS: When are you going to do yours, also have heard there is a redesigned plug am sure it is a ford only to get them?????

 

I live just south of you and use noting but chevron, texaco or shell and was told by 3 different dealers that my poor performance issues was from carbon build up and that I had all the latest PCM flashes at 30K I will have my plugs changed and see what they look like I do get a fair amount of city driving say 50/50.

 

You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket. SK Tools makes this socket.....states its been specifically designed for the 5.4 3V spark plugs. Cost looks to be ~ 10 bucks. Sears.com sells them for 9.99.

 

Krazymat, you should'nt have any problem. It does depend on how corroded or seized your plug is. Just take it slow and you'll be fine. I dont consider this to be "not broken dont fix" kind of thing. Its more of if you dont do something it will be broken.
I just use a 9/16ths deepwell socket and it works good for me. I've removed my wife's 2ce so far with no trouble. The second time i did it on her truck it was @ 45,000 miles.

 

Here are some pictures to clear up the spark plug design issue:
5.4L 3V spark plugs: I did not take this picture. Found it on the internet. Said these plugs had ~ 25k on them. Notice the rust/corrosion on the ground shields.

 

Here is the SK 9/16" spark plug socket:

Here is a scary picture of a broken spark plug 5.4L 3V spark plug. Quess where the ground shield is .......inside the cylinder head! Lesson = BE CAREFUL! or a simple spark plug change could turn into a cylinder head removal. Rotunda spark plug removal tool P/N = 303-1203. Cost is $125.88 straight from Rotunda. 1-800-ROTUNDA. Currently back ordered until Jan16th.