Not making any promises .... but, if I have some time I'll take a look at what you have posted and see what Adobe and I can do
to set one up for you.

I had a medium blue '84 6.9 F250HD 4-speed 3.54LS as a work truck. Not a bad truck but would have benefited from a set of 3.73's (NA).

The paint can wait, the dent should go, but the full paint job can wait. Fix the dent and throw some primer on it ..... close enough!
Make the mechanical right first. Sure wish I could walk around and crawl into it!!!

Back in that era the center three on the marker light array were clear. Two outside amber marker lights and three inside identification
lamps that were clear/white. A local freight hauler had a C-6 all dressed up and that's the way his lights were. Sure wish I had some
pictures cause that really was a class truck. That was normal for the early 50's. I never did see exactly what year your F-6 is?

A 3-way OD in the mix should make for some interesting combinations on the old girl! Depending on the ratios and using the two-speed
axle you should be able to squeeze even more out of the little flathead ... but don't plan on spending too much time in OD with
a load or maybe even the trailer. Might work well to leave the two-speed in low and play with the 3-way. I've got some hours
on three and four ways (my preference) and having the gears can make a BIG difference. You just have to remember the sequence that
works best under that situation with that load! It will come with practice.

In your album you might want to expand on the door logo photo. It's cool but I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in the story behind it.

Gotta go, big thick pork chops on the grill!

Regards,

 

I have a 2004 f350 x-cab 4x4 dully with a 5.4 and i pull a 20 ton dump trailer . The truck always has the trailer behind it and I haul 9 ton in it all the time , but i'm in Fl. and it's flat ,it would be nice to have a diesel ,but i got this truck for 8000$$ with 94000 miles , it's has 209000 and still runs strong ,very happy with it

 

I switched from a 31ft TT to the 34ft 5th wheel.. my V10 does the job better than I expected!!! fully loaded the truck and 5th weight in at 18,700 lbs.

 

I think the mod motors do great. When I go to the race track towing the Mustang with the Expedition I travel VERY heavy... TONS (literally) of tools and gear and crap, rolling load is usually around 14,000 lbs or so with the truck and everything and it does a great job! B)

 

03 F350 crewcab dually FX4
40 foot haulmark 1 foot extra height
golf cart
NHRA 1968 Hemi Dart SS/AH

Rolling down the road at just under 25,000 LBS

 

well I finally got a pic of the entire setup

5th wheel is about 36 feet long and about 9,000 pounds dry

 

20ft Ponderosa Stock Trailer, 7k torsion axles, 27ft overall length. Fully loaded trailer is about 15k


Next time I haul hay I'll snap a picture of that...20'+5' PJ 22,500 rated gooseneck. Fits 14 5x5 round bales of hay (approx 1100lb each), no idea what the trailer weighs, but its a lot...

 

Looks like you need to level your trailer a little mroe

 

I need to adjust it some, but that picture is with the trailer empty. I'm also waiting until I get new wheels and tires, so that I only have to do it once.

 

I do mine all the time... my truck (the F150) has a higher bed than my roomate's K2500, so I adjust them up and down depending on which truck is pulling. It only takes me a few minutes to do, almost faster than the actual hitching part!

 

I wouldn't go much further. The point is to have the trailer level or very slightly up hill when it is loaded. If he fully loaded it I would bet it would run down hill. Which makes for terrible mileage, crappy handling and a rough ride.

 

With torsion axles you want it perfectly level when towing, to evenly distribute the load over both axles. With the front sitting higher like it is, more weight is on the rear axle.

 

I'll give you that. But I know maybe a handful of people (out of hundreds of people) that actually take the time to adjust the neck for each pull. Plus you don't really want to be adjusting the neck while it's loaded. Most Jacks aren't designed for it.

In an ideal world, yes you are correct. In reality, if you aren't going to adjust it each time you should have a slight up hill when it is empty. Just enough incline so when your loaded it levels off evenly.

Judging by how the ground isn't level in his photo... I would bet he is just right when he's on level ground.

 

thats always a issue too, being sure youre on level ground to set the tounge height.

 

Its pretty close when loaded, but it does need to come down a bit...Its not like I'm towing with a chevy that will sag a whole bunch