Hello there
I need brakes the old mechanical drums just don't stop my 1955 with a 390 anymore.

Can anyone suggest a car or truck that I can get something that will work on my truck ???

If so any suggestions on what you have done to your own will help as well ???

THIS IS THE ORIGINAL FRAME AND SUSPENSION, no independents or anything like that thanks.

I am on a tight budget so I hope the local wreckers will have something that will work

Thanks in advance

Travis

here is my truck

www*****culink.com/~illuminatrix/fordf100.htm

 

I know this isn't much help but I'd like to know that too as I also can't afford those $800 brake kits, nor do I want to use non-stock car wheels on the front either. The best thing is to take one of your spindles down to the salvage yard & see if the later rotor will fit or can be made to. The Ford bolt pattern has always been the same. Ive heard some guys simply getting the backing plates off a later truck & simply redrilling the holes to fit & then go from there. There's always something that can be made to work if youre determined.

 

You are going to need rotors from a 77-80 Chry lebaron, Plym volare, or dodge aspen.
Calipers; 74-81 Camaro, fire bird use the camaro brake hoses. You still will need to purchase the basic installation kit which include the bracket and adapters. I dont know of an easier way to bolt them on and they will work properly. This is the set up I have on my "55"

 

Hi there.

What I mean is yes the $800 dollar brake kits are alot.

I guess what the major expense will be is the power booster. I can get a basic BRAKE kit for $500

AS FOR THE MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER. WHAT IS THE BEST ONE TO GET AT A WRECKER OR A REBUILD FOR THE STOCK LOCATION ON A '55 ????

IS THE FIREWALL LOCATION BETTER ????

Heard a ford ranger will work.

I WILL STILL BE USING THE DRUMS IN THE REAR.

Thanks in advance

Travis

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 24-Jun-01 AT 01:03 PM (EST)[/font][p]Go to the main lobby of the forum and do a search under "brakes" and see all the problems guys have with them, even in stock form. I would buy something that was designed to work together. If I was junkyarding, I would a least use everything off the same vehicle. You've got drum/drum, disc/drum, certain proportioning valves, master cylinders with different diameter pistons for different system pressures, oddball line fittings, etc. And it's pretty much a given, if you don't use something off a ford truck or jeep (dodge?) you will not have the right bolt pattern. By the time you pay for new wheels or somebody to redrill the hubs, you might be well off to work a little o.t. and pay the $800.00. If you have the patience and knowhow though, don't let me discourage you.

As an example, I keep debating about the volare front end for my 53. If I did do it, I am thinking I would buy the whole car, use the front end and rear, complete brake system with booster and master cylinder and proportioning valve. That way, I would know it was designed to work together.

 

dont get me wrong, drums suck all the way around. but i dont see why these would have any problem stopping youre truck. infact in many cases drums are chosen over disks in heavy duty applications. the only stopping problems ive ever had with my drums are keeping them adjusted so they dont pull, and the fear of getting them wet.
save a headache and look into why they dont stop youre truck, and if finding parts is the problem, then in my opinion it migt be cheaper and better to swap out everything.
find an 80'2 f-250 with a solid axel and disks and make them work
you could do the whole job for like 500 and have heavy duty easy to get parts for breaks and axels.

 

The master cylinder I used came from an 1985 ranger, also get the porportioning valve, you can fabricate a pedal bracket or purchase one ready to bolt in. The only thing you need to cut is a 2 1/2" holefor the mastercylinder.

 

WHEN I SAID THEY DON'T STOP my truck I meant they don't stop me as fast as I would like. I do street race a bit and when the light changes I would like to stop. Not lock up all the wheels. I appreciate the advice from all.

CAN SOMEONE RECCOMEND A GOOD AFTERMARKET KIT to save me some of the headache listed above.

I have looked at ECI are there any others

Thanks for all the help.

Travis

 

Sacramento Vintage Ford has an "economy" disc brake conversion kit for the mid fifty fords. I can't remember the price exactly but I guess it's not too much. This way you don't have to get a new master cylinder or anything, just a proportioning valve. Good luck

Craig Early
Nor Cal F-100 Elite- Livermore Chapter
www.geocities.com/norcal_f100

 

Should I get a booster or power unit ?????

 

I'm running front discs (for volare front clip) and stock rear drums without a booster and it brakes great. A mechanic who drove my truck likened the feeling to Corvette unassisted brakes.

Craig
Nor Cal F-100 Elite

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 26-Jun-01 AT 10:29 AM (EST)[/font][p]blitzcraig56: How much have you driven your truck with the original master cylinder and disc brakes? Have you noticed any overheating of the pads up front? The brake drum master cylinders have a residual pressure valve that keeps slight pressure on the system at all times, which can put a slight drag on disc brake pads which do not require a residual valve unless the master cylinder is below the caliper, in which case a lower value residual valve is added. Also, non-power discs will supposedly require more pressure on the brake pedal than drums, because the discs are not "self-energizing". On drum brakes, when the brakes are applied, the rear shoe gets wedged between the upper pin and the drum, supposedly requiring less pedal effort. This is also why the rear shoe is always longer than the front shoe when they are paired together. I keep saying "supposedly" because this is what all the books say, but you have actually done yours and I am wondering if I can believe everything I read?

 

I should make my setup more clear actually. I have an early mustang dual master cylinder in my truck, running straight brake lines to the discs, and a proportioning valve before the lines go to the drums. The brake pedal is a bit stiffer than before but you get used to it. And the pedal returns to the old position consistently. I've been driving with this setup for nearly a year with no major problems, just an annoying squeak which sprang up the last 3 weeks that I haven't isolated yet

Craig
Nor Cal F-100 Elite