check all of your vacum lines. the egr has a vacum line

 

Thanks for the input - I have but will again check everything - the book is good in telling you what the codes mean - just not what you need to do to fix the problem - at least from the books point of view.
R

 

Welcome to Denver. The whole city is a playground right now. ENJOY! Hope you get your truck fixed.

 

Happy New Year! Well this has been a long interesting journey on the forum and with the Bronco - thanks to all of you I was able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again. After re-reading all the post, re-checking my abilities with the code reader and the paper clip - I found the problem. I wish I were back in GA where I would give Napa more than a piece of my mind! When they were working under the hood they broke the vacuum line that services the EGR Valve about seven inches down - the reason I could not see it was because it is covered by the plastic housing that protects it from the block. How do I know they broke it you ask? When I removed the plastic housing the vacuum line was taped together with a small piece of black electrical tape - needless to say it did not stop the leak but did hold the line in place. I just do not understand why some people work that way. In any event it is now fixed with a piece of .05 vacuum hose and I have a lot of gratitude for this Board not to mention 4 new tires, a new EGR valve, a new code reader and my personal favorite my new friend the paper clip! Thanks again to all of you and to show my appreciation I am becoming a Supporter of this Forum.
Ron

 

ROFL
andym I needed a good laugh !

 

What did I tell you about some of those "techs". They are truly unbelievable....Glad that you fixed it and I am happy it was fairly easy and cheap. Too bad the ding dong doing the work on your truck was a dip stick.

 

It is unbelievable!

 

Hows it goin these codes im getting out of my ford code reader book, this with the reader cost me about $32.00 bones. Code 33 egr fault not closing properly, mine did the same thing I took it off and cleaned it out with brake cleaner a small screw driver and some air pressure be careful of the rubber diaphram inside! This worked for me.Code 13 rpm at idle out of range/low! Code 129 insufficient maf change during dynamic response test (mass air flow sensor).Code 167 throttle position sensor fault or tps sensor . And know for code332 insufficien tegr flow detected. It sounds like its stuck closed witch is better than stuck open, mine was stuck shut to I just gave it a good cleaning and finaly started working again man was it stuck. After the clean though it has worked great the plunger inside was moving nice and free like and it has been ok. It may or may not work for you but if it does work it would save you some cash! If i were you I would clean the egr, make sure my connections were good on all sensors ground etc, especialy the mass air flow and throttle position sensors. Vaccume lines also for good measure. I might then unplug the computer ( battery) to reset the codes, then fire it up take it for a decent little drive in the neighborhood and highway, when gettin on the highway open it up full throttle gettin on. The reason for this is youre computer will need to relearn what it needs to do driveability wise. It will then have some fresh codes for you to check and hopefully you will get a 11 or 111 all clear!!!!!!! Another thing if youre tps or throttle position sensor is off It will not be a consistent reading, this would affect the way youre maf reads. Hopefully somewhere in all this jargan somethin helps. Good Luck.