'68 F100 360 how to change motor mounts?
#1
#2
Let me be the first to WELCOME you to FTE! This is a great truck site, and you won't find better.
This is a relatively easy job. A little messy maybe, depending on how dirty your truck is under there, but easy.
1. You MUST remove the accelerator linakge to prevent it form getting bent when you jack up the engine.
2. You MUST remove the fan shroud, if any. You can remove it from the radiator, and let it hang on the fan, as long as it doesn't interfere with the rest of the work. (You have to remove it, because when you jack up the engine, the fan will hit it.)
3. You MAY have to remove the lower radiator hose. Watch as you jack the engine up, to see if it has enough stretch in it. If in doubt, remove it and drain the radiator first. Less mess that way, too, as opposed to breaking the hose.
4. You MAY have to remove the rubber gas line, but probably not. Keep an eye on it as well.
To do the job:
1. Remove the things mentioned above.
2. Reach up under the engine perch, and remove the motor mount nut, one on each side.
3. Jack up the engine with a 2x4 under the harmonic balancer. As it goes up, slip short 2x4 pieces between the oil pan and the cross member. You may only need 1.
4. When there is enough room to reach the 2 or 3 bolts on the block, remove the old mount, and put the new ones on. You may find it helpful to drop the engine back down onto the 2x4 when you break the bolts on the block, to keep the engine from slipping off the jack. Just don't get your hand pinned between the mounts and the block, and that short piece will help prevent that.
5. With the new ones on, lower the engine down.
6. Reinstall the items you removed.
Good luck, and again, WELCOME!
This is a relatively easy job. A little messy maybe, depending on how dirty your truck is under there, but easy.
1. You MUST remove the accelerator linakge to prevent it form getting bent when you jack up the engine.
2. You MUST remove the fan shroud, if any. You can remove it from the radiator, and let it hang on the fan, as long as it doesn't interfere with the rest of the work. (You have to remove it, because when you jack up the engine, the fan will hit it.)
3. You MAY have to remove the lower radiator hose. Watch as you jack the engine up, to see if it has enough stretch in it. If in doubt, remove it and drain the radiator first. Less mess that way, too, as opposed to breaking the hose.
4. You MAY have to remove the rubber gas line, but probably not. Keep an eye on it as well.
To do the job:
1. Remove the things mentioned above.
2. Reach up under the engine perch, and remove the motor mount nut, one on each side.
3. Jack up the engine with a 2x4 under the harmonic balancer. As it goes up, slip short 2x4 pieces between the oil pan and the cross member. You may only need 1.
4. When there is enough room to reach the 2 or 3 bolts on the block, remove the old mount, and put the new ones on. You may find it helpful to drop the engine back down onto the 2x4 when you break the bolts on the block, to keep the engine from slipping off the jack. Just don't get your hand pinned between the mounts and the block, and that short piece will help prevent that.
5. With the new ones on, lower the engine down.
6. Reinstall the items you removed.
Good luck, and again, WELCOME!
#3
#5
You are picking up on a 13 year old thread in the 67/72 Bumpside board. You might start your own thread in the below board for The Slicks.
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck
#6
#7
At the front: One rubber insulator below the cross member, one rubber insulator above the cross member.
The bell housing has "ears" = One rubber insulator per side below the cross member, one rubber insulator per side above the cross member, below the ears.
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