Replacing Rear leaves. Quick question.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Replacing Rear leaves. Quick question.
Howdy folks. 95 F-150 351/E4OD 8.8 rear end.
Since the spider/side gears grenaded on me, I decided while I had the rear end apart and out, I might as well replace the broken leaf springs.
I picked up a set of 5 leaf springs (my current ones were 4 leaf+the overload) off a 77 F-250. Everything seems like it will work out alright, except for one thing. With the way these 77 leaves are, the rear end is going to sit forward about a half inch, if that. Is that going to cause any problems with the driveshaft length, or is there enough give to accomodate for a half inch?
One more question. Should I use the overload spring on this new set or no? Like I said, the old set was a 4 leaf, this new one is a 5 leaf. I think I might do it since everything fits together. Let me know what ya think!
Since the spider/side gears grenaded on me, I decided while I had the rear end apart and out, I might as well replace the broken leaf springs.
I picked up a set of 5 leaf springs (my current ones were 4 leaf+the overload) off a 77 F-250. Everything seems like it will work out alright, except for one thing. With the way these 77 leaves are, the rear end is going to sit forward about a half inch, if that. Is that going to cause any problems with the driveshaft length, or is there enough give to accomodate for a half inch?
One more question. Should I use the overload spring on this new set or no? Like I said, the old set was a 4 leaf, this new one is a 5 leaf. I think I might do it since everything fits together. Let me know what ya think!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ohio
hey handyman, i would look at the slip joint at the front of the driveshaft. you can see from the wear pattern where it moved back and forth and if you take your half inch from that it would give an idea if it would work. i would think it would. chack the pm i sent you.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 70
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From: pa
if your main leaf is good in the pack you got in there now,just get a new center bolt for the 95 and cut the other pack apart,cut them to the same length as your old springs and put them together as a new leaf pack,i think you might have to drill the center hole in the spring out to 1/2'' due to the older trucks used a 7/16'' hole,and the newer one a 1/2'' hole.i used a pack out of a 78 bronco and made up a pack using the 78 and the 95 packwhich worked out great,still rides decently,but can haul a lot more weight than the 95 origional pack would.also put the overload back on,it helps out in the end.
also while you are at it if the hangers look slightly rotted,change them out now while you have it apart,it makes life easier in the long run.the hangers off a 78 bronco are the same as the 95.get yourself some frame bolts in 1/2'' fine thread,and use some good red loctite on them.save yourself the headache later when you find them rotted out on the bottom in the pocket.
also while you are at it if the hangers look slightly rotted,change them out now while you have it apart,it makes life easier in the long run.the hangers off a 78 bronco are the same as the 95.get yourself some frame bolts in 1/2'' fine thread,and use some good red loctite on them.save yourself the headache later when you find them rotted out on the bottom in the pocket.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Thanks fellas. The main leaves aren't very strong, as they have basically been the only thing supporting the truck for a while. The rest of the springs had broken about 5000 miles ago haha. So I will be using the main leaf from the 77.
I replaced the one hanger about 10,000 miles ago, and then now I'm replacing the other hanger, and the 2 shackles. No need to get cheap now haha. I will measure and make sure I have enough room with the slip yoke. If not, what are my options?
I replaced the one hanger about 10,000 miles ago, and then now I'm replacing the other hanger, and the 2 shackles. No need to get cheap now haha. I will measure and make sure I have enough room with the slip yoke. If not, what are my options?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 448
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From: Edmonton, AB Canada
Well, the only option off the top of my head would be to have the shaft shortened. Shortening shafts are cheaper than lengthening, but dont be suprised if the shop tells you that you will need some new components, like the weld on section that they are going to have to cut off the shorten the tube. I would recommend changing the u-joints before you send it to a shop because they use the u-joints to suspend the shaft while balancing, and if yours are old they will insist on having them replaced, which will be cheaper if you do it first. There might be some more cost effective options, but i dont see that 1/2" posing you problems with your slip yoke.
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