I just got a 54 F100 3 months ago, good shape, mainly stock. It has a non-original Y-block (272 or 292?)from a later year, rebuilt in mid 70's, with a 3sp column shift. Driving today, it started knocking badly, coolant leaking out of the cylinder head soft plug. I pulled into a Mobil station where the owner/mechanic used to have a 55. Said it sounded terminal

What should I do? I'm definitely not capable of a rebuild. I was thinking of finding a 289 or 302 with a C-4 tranny, by looking at some of the great info on this board. Seems like most people use this opportunity to upgrade to better reliability, easier parts. This truck is a great driver, but not for show, so I'm not looking to find an original 239 Y-block. What mods are are necessary? It does have the "rams horns" manifolds with dual exhaust. Can I keep the same old rear diff (plate says "3.91")?

Looking to get her back on the road for a reasonable cost...

TIA,
Henry
Wounded 54 F100

 

i know i'm likely gonna get shot for saying this on this board, but for reliability, cheapness of parts, easy swap overness i did a s/b chevy in my 58 over the winter.......durn near a bolt in thing with the transdapt motormount kit, dodge truck rad, s-15 driveshaft 85 f150 trans x-member 57 fairlane auto shift column.
but up here in canada s/b chev stuff is sooooo much cheaper....for example
350/305 timing chain set $14 302/351 $40......... trans filter kit c4 $30 ....700r4 $12, reman starter, chev $ 90 ford $149 besides i've always had better luck with gm hei ign compared to the duraspark,
i'm by no means biased as to which brand is better i've had exceptional luck over the years with all of the big 3...with the exception of a brand new 91 s-15 which completely fell to pieces over a 2 year period anything that could go wrong did.....

anyhow...just an idea for CHEAP e-z motorswapping

mikie

 

In my opinion the cheapest way to do what want is to buy a complete
FORD car that runs good.You will get the major componets plus a lot
of small parts you will need.A good LTD or such with a rough body comes cheap.You can use the originar rear diff.These trucks are the easiest to swap engines into that there is.


Larry

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Mar-02 AT 00:18 AM (EST)]economan,

I'm in a similar situation, my one month new-to-me '54 has a 223 that runs rough.My truck is intended to be stylish transportation of lumber and such. I was curious about the list of parts you used for swapping.

- transdapt motormount kit,
- dodge truck rad,
- s-15 driveshaft
- 85 f150 trans x-member
- 57 fairlane auto shift column

Is the Dodge truck rad a drop-in? What year/make truck? (my radiator is leaking)

Is the '85 F150 trans x-member a bolt up?

I'm impressed.

 

Paul,

Where you located? I have a 223 that runs real good... ( at least it did in october when i pulled it) sitting in my shop ( taking up floor space) that I would love to get rid of.


Robert

Wvillecab1(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Robert,

I live in the Grate State of Idaho (Famous Potatoes). Boise, to be precise.

 

paul...

Too bad your not closer... 18 miles south of portland...


robert

Anyone else need a 223?

 

I'm running a 302/C-4 in my '51 and still have the original rear. I agree with the other responder. Find a totaled early '70's F-100. When your rear blows, you'll have a 9".
Good luck!

 

I'm running a Dodge full-size van radiator in my '51. Dropped right in. Now I gotta work on it to run over 190 degrees! But PLEASE, stay with a blue motor!!

 

Erik, Thanks for the tip on the radiator.

Robert, How much you want for the 223? I might find another excuse to go the the Portland Swap Meet.

Paul

 

THX for some ideas, guys. Anyone think I should rebuild the y-block? I've got a spare 292 that came with the truck, turns over, but may also need work. Hate to drop in the other Y-block only to find another major problem. Hmmmmm....

Henry

 

As you do not care about being stock I would go with a more modern
engine.Then if you want to upgrade to power steering or a/c it will be much easier.Also parts will be a lot easier to find.Its all in what you want to do with the truck.



Larry

 

Paul, or anyone else interested,

like to get $ 150.00 for the engine and transmission... got a rear axle too....


Robert

Wvillecab1(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Well, this is the latest. Called the local salvage yard. I can get a 302 with "guarantee to run good and not smoke" and C-4 tranny for $450. rear diff is additional $125. What should I do? I guess I need a steering column - what kind? May want to do the power steering mod in the future. Anybody got some tips who has done this/ what to avoid?:-X11

THX,
Henry

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Mar-02 AT 01:03 PM (EST)]Henry

Thats a fair price if you get lucky and the engine and trans are good. Its a little steep if you end up rebuilding it in three months. Can you hear it run? That never hurts if it is an option. Salvage yards can afford to warranty the stuff because they remove them with a smoke wrench in 10 minutes. You are the guy that has to install it three times while they search for a good one. It is likely to be a while before you get the truck back on the road so I would discuss how much time they are going to give you on your warranty. Unless you really jump on the project, you are going to be down longer than 30 days by the time you get all the odds and ends rounded up and the little problems worked out. I have been burned a few times through the years and would have a written warranty that is not vague. Did they tell you what year the motor will be? Also make sure the engine is very complete. Starter, alternator, PS pump etc. That will cut down on the time and expense so you can find out what you got.

Dewayne
53 F100