I am installing the ATS today and gave the comp wheel a wiggle. I noticed some true movement at the shaft. I am estimating 1/8 - 3/16 travel at shaft end, it is hard to tell. You know how some times just give in the flesh of your fingertips can feel like movement? This is enough movement that I am sure it is not just the flesh moving.

What is acceptable?

The blades look perfect, no oil on them or in the housing, b ut I did hit the drain on the KO pot for blowby and some oil ran out (1/4 - 1/3 oz.)

Wes

 

I found another thread that mentions spec on in/out movement which I could not feel but what I have is up/down side/side movement. I will check to see if it is touching the housing plate.


Wes

 

If the rest of your turbo looks fine, and you can tell it's been getting oil, don't worry. I did the same thing before, removed my turbo, checked it and thought it was shot. What I forgot to remember is that the impellor shaft actually spins on a film of oil, so when you have the turbo out it will feel like it's loose. I had even gone to the measure of taking it to a shop and they brought out a new turbo that was very similar and I thought it had just as much if not more play in it than mine did with over 100K miles on it. Made me feel better anyway.

 

I kind of figured as much. I put the ATS on and also installed a Turbo Master WG operator from dieselsite. Hit 21-22 psi from a 5-10 mph roll to WOT once it warmed up. Before it was good and warm I got 28 psi. I will adjust it some more but I don't drive WOT everywhere I go. I will probably wait till I get the DP ordered and in.


BTW I have a 1.00 A/R housing with WG actuator, intake boot, extra clips(easy kind from Napa) if anyone is interested.

Wes

 

You should have ZERO axial (in and out) play on the shaft. That shows excessive thrust bearing wear. you should have .0005" at most, and if you are sure it's 1/8", that is .125". However i think that is an overestimation, as the compressor and turbine wheels are not that far from the housings themselves. Pull that massive intake boot off again, and while you pull outwards on the shaft, see if the blades will scrape against the housing.

You can fix it, or you can leave it like that, it's your truck.

How sloppy was the casting on your ATS?

 

I really could not feel ANY in/out play at all. I already checked it with the housing on, no scrape.

The casting was poor. I had to dremel out the WG act. bosses to get a socket on the bolts. Only took enough to get the job done and plenty of meat left. Also noticed that the mount bolts for the housing did not sit completely flush against the bosses. poor finish work at the mfg.

The worst part was that I bought a new torque wrench (my current Snapon starts at 50 lbs and is 1/2 inch drive) for $110 and could only really use it on 2-3 bolts. Oh, well, I Love tools>

Wes

 

I hate it when i have to buy new tools.

Is ATS having QC issues? Maybe I need to wait a while.

 

Yeah, my housing sucked as far as the internal slag. I spent a good half-hour with a hand file and ended up with a decent pile of shavings. I actually test fitted the housing in place and then i looked down the outlet neck, and saw all that crap, it had to go. Of course like all of the ATS housings, the outlet isn't perfectly circular, it is somewhat oval. I ported it out with just a smiley's width (hows that for comparison) left around the edge of the flange where the o-ring goes. Lots of stuff which looked like welding slag (casting slag) was just hanging out inside. I also painted the ATS logo indentation blue, and it looks pretty sweet.

 

The internals on mine were good, it was the outside that lacked fit and finish. Like they didn't go back and true/square up all of the bolt bosses. Maybe it is just me but I seemed to notice a little more whistle now, not an obnoxious amount nut I can hear it.

 

Oh i noticed a large increase in whistle, it is great. Where my old turbo sounded at 20psi, this sounds like it at only 10 psi. At 24psi this is deafening!

 

Sorry, not a fan of the whistle, but a little ain't bad. Got in it this morning, though and no go. I figure that since I ran it at WOT a couple of times yesterday that the TPS is acting up. Set a SES light . I just cut the key off and stomped the go pedal a few times and it seemed to start pulling again.

Should I be more concerned?

Wes

 

Were did you guys buy your ATS housings, and for how much? About how long did it take to do the swap for you? Keep the stock compressor wheel or go with the ww ?

 

It took me a good hour or two i'd say to actually install it. I knew what i was doing and i've done it several times before so it wasn't hard. I had the WW already on the turbo. All i wanted was more whistle, not really any performance benefit. It did what i wanted and since i didn't have the large compressor housing o-ring that seals it to the backplate i used Great Stuff. It was on the stock housing too so i had to let it cure before i ran it. Make sure before you start you have a 1/4" drive, 5/16 or 8mm (close to each other) 12 PT socket.

 

Remove The Compressor Housing And Inspect Inside Diameter For Rub (the Backside), Regardless If You Think Your Current Play Is "acceptable".

 

I bought mine from bob at dieselsite for $405. Took several hours but wasn't running a race. No WW. Really notice the whine now. Keep an eye on the o-rings and check rub before you remove the old housing and after you install the new one.

Wes