I have a 1991 Ranger with automatic locking hubs and electronic 4 wheel drive, for some reason my 4 Wheel Drive will not engage. I have had no problem with it at all, and I have no clue as to where I should start to troublshoot this problem. Please, can anyone help?

 

Given it's history, I'd first verify that the shift motor was operating correctly. I'd next confirm that voltage to it is applied at the correct time.

 

I'm having the same problem! Hoping for some help. Replaced the shift motor (again). How/where do I check for correct voltage. Oh, replaced the shift switch and I'm thinking electronic control module (behind driver's seat). HELP!!!!!

 

I'm not here to just cross-post or something, but the mack daddy of all Ranger type 4-wheel drive electric motor threads.

There are a number of fixes that can get you back up and running, including a little piece of rubber vacuum hose (to fix the stop for the electric motor sensor -- #1 fix) wire issues, gem module fixes, etc.

Here is the link to that thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hift+motor+fix

By the way, there is NO difference internally between the manual T-case and the electric T-case except the actual mechanism used to shift the case. All the gears, etc., are exactly the same - and equally as strong. Of course, I typically have a couple of manual cases for sale to those that disagree...

 

Checked the fuse, replaced the motor, switch, and control module. Still nothing! The light on the control module comes on steady for about 1 minute after pushing white re-set then goes out. Guess I might have a broken wire as I'm getting no sound or indications that anything is trying to work. It's a '91 with only 192,000 miles. They just don't make anything to last nowadays do they? I've got a more hours than the law should allow trying to fix it & I'm almost ready to go to a pro (for the truck)! Wife's OK!!!

 

Turn it into a manual shift case.

Two ways to do that - both involve ditching the motor.

First, you just stick a pair of needle-nose vise grips over the triangular stud and turn it by hand.

Second, you contrive a more well-engineered part that allows you to turn that shaft from inside the cab. I've done it both ways.

It shifts easy, stays shifted, and you can build something for under $30 to make it a manual that shifts every time.

My current attempt is to use 1/4" socket stuff. I've cut the motor part of the shifter mechanism away from the part that engages the shifting stud, then I will weld a socket over the stub that makes the t-case mechanism turn. From there out, I will just build a linkage into the cab using common 1/4" socket accessories, extensions, universals, and perhaps one of those flexy extensions.

I've done two other varieties, both using some sort of cable to drive the mechanism, and I've had some problems with both, though they did shift the t-case. The biggest problem is that the cables tend to unwind when twisted opposite of their intended power transmission direction, which causes bind. I tried driving the electric motor armature, which worked fine, but took a lot of turns to accomplish my task. I wanted something that just twisted in with a positive feel, like when I did it manually under the truck, so I'm working on the solid link.

 

you never did say whether or not the front axles are turning when engaged. If they are, you have a lockout issue. If only one is bad, no 4x4.

 

I cleaned the transfer case switch motor, I tested it out before installing. The darn thing still won't go into 4wd or 4wd low gear. After testing it out and the motor engaged and turned I also tried to manually put it in 4wd by turning the key on the transfer case to the 4high position, it still would not engage the 4wd. Can I assume that the transfer case is bad? The other posting on how to clean and test the transfer case motor switch was a great help!.

 

Thank's for all the info. I'm going to take the motor loose and try it. Someone mentioned it might be binding up. When I'm doing that I'll engage it by hand. My drive is a real bear in the snow. Other than that I only used the 4WD twice to go to work last winter. I put it in to get up the drive then take it out after reaching the top so maybe I'll try to go with building a manual linkage. Thanks to all.

 

I'm not trying to poke fun at you with my reply, but I want to use something you said in your post as a reminder to a lot of 4-wheel drive vehicle owners...

The 4-wheel drive system MUST be operated once in a while on your trucks and SUV's in order for it to work when you actually need it. The parts sit still and go along for the ride for a year or so, no lube, no softening up the grease, etc., until you need it -- and typically in a snow storm with cold weather -- then -- dead...

I run my daily driver trucks in 4 HI about once a month or so -- typically on a rainy day, as the wet roads allow for a little bit of tire slip so it doesn't wind up the drive train so much. That really helps to keep everything in running condition when I actually need it.

In rebuilding axles and hubs, I've seen trucks where the front ring gear is rusty on the top half from never being engaged! I've also seen hubs so packed with grease that they could never work.

Grease goes on the bearings only -- and I recommend the BEST grade of grease you can find (BTW, boat axle grease is NOT the best kind for a heavy truck! - I use synthetic or moly). Hubs DO NOT get packed with grease. A light film of 30wt oil is best inside the hub assembly. Otherwise it cannot work - especially factory automatic hubs. It also never hurts to run synthetic oil in the diffs. Makes a great difference in cold weather operation, and will add a mile or so to the gallon from less friction.

So, RUN THOSE FRONT AXLES! It is good for your truck!

On the late model Ranger/Explorer T-cases, I also recommend that you change your t-case oil often -- I did mine at every other engine oil change. If you have the auto-trac, that will help its function a lot.

 

Believe me LESSON LEARNED!!! I'm only out $185 so far plus my time. Unlike the wife & 16 year old son I like to keep my $$$ longer than my trucks. I live on a farm so finding places to go 4 wheelin' is real easy. I've made the appointment to have fun once a week NO MATTER WHAT! Thanks (again) to all.

 

Like everyone else I am having FWD probelms. some times the FWD will work and sometimes it wont. if it does engage it will take it's self out again. all the while the FWD light is on, not blinking. I have a 99 ranger V6 4.0L were should I start? Any ideas on whats wrong?

 

I use my 4x4 systems at least once a month in both ranges. If nothing else, I play in the yard. You can you use your high range on the highway even on dry pavement as long as you have a straight strech of road, you don't want to be turning on dry pavement in 4-wheel. By all means use the 4x4 as much as you can to keep the system freed up and operating nicely. Even back and forth in your driveway is better than nothing.

 

I have a 99 Ford Ranger 4X4 3.0L, and its having 4wd problems, when I put it in park and turn the switch to 4HI it makes a few clicking noises then the 4wd Hi light comes on like it is engaged, but I know it isnt cause I was driving in snow today and the back tires were spining but the front were not, what should I check?

 

you should take your drive shaft off (with it in 4wd) and verify that the lockouts are working on the front wheels. these have a bad history

Matt