Hello Guys,
I'm trying to figure out how much to cut off of my front frame horns to tuck in the front bumper on my 56' f100. I have my front sheet metal but the valance is to banged up to make a solid determination of how much to cut. Anyone with a good answer out there, please help this f100 fellow member.

Thanks,
Freddie

 

Fred, do you have your fenders hanging and your bumper handy? Take some 2" wide masking tape and run a piece from fender bottom to fender bottom across the front of the truck. Mock-up your bumper and take measurements from the tape to the back side of your bumper. Leave yourself however much room youre comfortable with between bumper and gravel pan.

 

are '56 frame rails like '53 ?? do they flair out at the bumper ends ?? if so you gotta make your cut back on the rail and remove the excess there don't you ???

john

 

I cut 1.1/2" off my frame horns, i got this measurement from custom classic trucks mag and from asking owners of 53-56 ford trucks who has done it already. This seems IMO to be the proper amount of take out that will give your truck the best look for bumper to valance clearance, However there is not real take out amount. Unfortunately i do not have any pics in my gallery with my truck together to show you how it looks, but other members do and i'm sure they will be happy to show you. good luck! and welcome to the forum

54 fever

 

That sounds just about right, I was at my shop today and doing some measuring. The 1 1/2" cut puts it at about the middle of the hole on the side of the frame rails. I'll check it out further tomorrow when I make a trip to powder coating shop where I have my frame.

Thanks,
Freddie

 

John, you are correct. Any cut should be done behind the valance pan. The frame horn is needed to remount the bumper without the need to redrill the holes. 1.5" seems to be ideal and 2" the max. The lower plate will not fit under the v.pan without altering it if more is taken out. We shoult also note that the effie clip is of a semi-floating type and will move around somewhat and will move a bit when braking so the bumpar can not sit right up against the pan. I've been measuring a few in this area and I would choose 1.5" and cut the frame back where it is square to allow ease of reweld. my .02 ...Jon

 

This was my first time I have ever posted anything on FTE and I am amazed at how quick and friendly I received reponses. Thanks a million guys. I will post pic's of my 56' Big Window project as soon as I powder coat my frame at my shop.

Thanks,
Freddie

 

Fred, since you are powder coating , you may also want to search some threads on that and chime in since we are regularly inquiring about that subject. Thanks, and good luck, Jon

 

Not a problem, I will post once I find the threads on powder coating.

 

Fred, welcome!
This site has been having some difficulties with bandwidth usage for searches so they have temporarily restricted the search function to those with more than 25 posts, so POST AWAY!
Tell us all about your project, what have you done so far, what are your plans? Are you powder coating the frame yourself? How long have you been working on it? How did you get it and what condition was it in?
Don't answer all in 1 post! I'm trying to help you reach 25 posts!!!!!

 

Fred, here is my thoughts on this mod. Make a channel that will slide up inside the frame horn that has been shortened behind the pan. This would allow "adjustment" for the clearance issue. Weld it to a bracket mated to the bumber bolts that also will move the bumper up. I don't mind the gap in front of the pan as much as I dislike the gap between the frame and the pan. I hope to move the bumper up enough to cover this gap. It is just a thought right now, when I get my Forty on the road I will get serious about it. Joe

 

I purchased the truck in 1998 then the garage caught fire in 01/21/03 and completely destroyed all the sheet metal. The fire also took my 65 Convertible Mustang which was strictly a show car and my dad's Chevy Suburban which he had just finished paying off. Every time I think about it, it still pisses the *#@+?<*&^%@! out of me. I was able to salvage the frame which I had already welded a Heidt's superride 11 front suspension with tubular upper and lower control arms, disc brakes and power rack and pinion. The rear had Posie's super slide rear springs attached to a 78 Lincoln Versailles rearend with new Currie trac-lok and 3.70's. I traveled to Kerman, Ca. from Del Rio, Tx. to purchase and bring back another BW cab, front fenders, hood, running boards and two doors. I will get you guys pictures as soon as the frame gets new make-up.

 

What a great idea!

The PO of my truck just whacked the frame horns shorter and then redrilled the bracket attach holes, remounting the bumper. It got the bumper tucked up, but always looked a little funky. The idea of also moving the bumper up would solve all the aesthetcs (when looking down at the gap) and also keep the bumper functional for protecting the gravel pan against bottoming. (That is ALL my tucked bumper on a lowered truck was ever good for). The idea of the channel inside the frame rail to "adjust" the gap is brilliant!

Too bad I cut my frame horns again back behind the pan and am running a smooth gravel pan without bumper or frame cutouts. I like this look better, but always appreciated the bumper taking the hit instead of my pan.

I SO feel like jniolon here.... Maybe I need to redo that part of the front end.

 

The idea sounds brilliant Joe, but I am here sratching my head over this.
I have welding skills and minor fabricating skills here, but you guys lost me with the channel in the frame part and the bracket. Would I have to cut my frame back here? Can you post a pencil sketch or photo of this idea. Sorry if I sound dumb here buddies.

 

Del Rio Tx, isn't that where Wolfman Jack originally broadcast from? Like I said Fred, this is just an idea, I have not tried to draw it out. By channel I mean a duplication of the frame rail, just smaller so it would slide up into the frame then be bolted together. Really, it might not need to be a channel, could be simple flat bar. Like a bumper bracket used on earlier models. That would be welded to a bracket that tucks up inside the bumper. In my mind the bracket for the bumper would at the same time"lift" the bumper to cover the opening in the pan. Just dawned on me, maybe the same principal of the arms that tuck my rear bumper up and in? Wish I could be more help. Bet once Randy thinks about this he will have a great idea on how to accomplish it.