and just about everywhere else too, lol,
I can run a hot lead from the battery to the ing box, this gives me my electric back, I still have to jump the starter on the ing box tho to get it to start.
I figure I can run a new hot lead from the hot side of the solenoid to the ing box and put a fuse in it, then run a new lead back to the solenoid from the ing box to initialize the solenoid for starting, but I figured I would do some checking and thats how I ended up at this sight.
My question is there a fuseable link that supplues the ele to the ing box and has anyone ever replaced it and what was the procedure?
Thanks

 

In your profile, you have an 87 BroncoII listed.
1) When you turn the key to the run position, do the warning lights &/or guages work? (yellow from main harness)
2) Do the headlights & horn work? (black/orange from main harness)
3) Are the hazard lights working? (same yellow as above)
At the starter relay mounted on the inner fender by the battery, on the battery side, you should find a 14 GA green fuse link going into a black/orange wire. If none of the 1,2,3) above work, check this fuse link.
Or/Also.
At the starter relay, there should also be a 20 GA blue fuse link. This protects the electronic engine control. Check this with a test light too.
And/Or.
You'll have to trace from the + side of the battery, into the wiring harness, to find where the yellow begins from the Black/Orange wire that comes from the starter relay and also from the alternator. At that point, there should be a 16 GA black fuse link for the yellow wire and a 16 GA black fuse link for the black/orange wire.
Get back to us with your findings S.V.P.
AL.

 

When I turn the key to run position I have no dash warning lights or gauges. The headlights do not work nor does the hazard lights or horn.

Thanks for the info,this explains alot to me, I will check her out today and let you know what I find.

 

I tested the fuse links all ok, so I jumped the ign box to start it and warm it up.
I noticed I can remove my hot lead and the truck stays running and all the electric works so I shut it off and no electric again.
wth, lol,

 

Here's a diagram of part of your elec system. Do you have a testlight or voltmeter you can use? If so, you can do some testing.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800f9476.gif

Look at the top of the diagram. You will see the two fusible links at the top of the diagram. The black orange feeds the headlights. The yellow feeds the ignition switch and part of the fuse box.

Since you said the headlights and everything else is dead, we will have to assume the problem is behind the fusible links(left on the diagram).

Also, you said it will work sometimes without the jumper wire. This means a fusible link is not permanently burned out. It sounds like a corroded connection, or sometimes the factory splice will corroded inside the harness.

It's hard to tell by the diagram were they are tapping power for the truck from the battery. It could be at the starter relay, or the bat +. See if you can figure that out and find the fusible link "c 14 gauge". With the truck not working, pierce the insulation around this fusible link and see if you have power. Work your way down to the splice to the alternator. Somewhere along the way you are losing it.

I know you probably need your Bronco, and using the jumper will work temporarily, but try to avoid the temptation to leave the jumper in there with a fuse permanently.

 

the truck stays running if I remove the hot lead from the ign box, but if I shut the engine off evrything is dead again.
From reading the diagram I see why that's happening, the alternator takes over feeding the yellow wire and the black and orange wire when the truck is running.
I will check fuse link C again and if it is ok I will follow it as you said Franklin,
I will let you know what I find out, thanks for the help.

 

I have decided to run two fused hot wires from the hot side of the solenoid on the fender to the steering ign box. I think the drivers side fender has to come off to find and correct the problem and I need the truck right now.
My other truck is a chevy stakebed and it gets 8 miles to a gallon, lol

 

Now blowing the new fuses,
What I did was to run 2 dedicated hot lines from the solenoid on the fender, the ends by the solenoid are fused. The other end of the dedicated hot lines each splice into one of the yellows at the column.
Worked fine for a while, went out today to start it and it ran then shut of after about 15 seconds, both fuses on the new dedicated lines were blown.
Replaced the fuses, fuses blew again after 10 to 15 seconds of running.
I am going to the auto parts store and I am going to see if they make a circuit breaker that will fit into the fuse holders. Then I am gonna test it with them first, see if it continues to shut off and on.
On the diagram, up top, it shows the yellowwire that feeds the ign box, then after the ign box it says 15 amp fuse, then hot at all times, that 15amp fuse is that in the fuse box?
What turns on after 10 to 15 seconds of running? computer maybe?
Feedback is welcomed, lol, this is driving me crazy.

 

Circuit breakers worked, I felt them while it was running and they were cold, tried turning everything ele on and all worked and circuit breakers were still cold.
Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

 

That would be fuse 1 15 amps brake light fuse & it IS hot at all times, so thats not the problem.

The only other thing that fuse link E/yellow wire feeds is the ignition switch.

My WAG would be a short in the ignition switch or in one of the wires between the ignition switch & fuse panel.

Try pulling the connector off of the ignition switch & have a look at the terminals. Seems i've read somewhere that the bakelite between the terminals can melt & short the terminals together.

Also probe the different wires in the connector for a short to ground.

BTW theres only the one fuse box & it's under the steering column.

 

I am going to go get the new ign switch tomorrow and install it, then put the fuses back in the new wire where I have circuit breakers now, I will let you know the results. $12 bucks for the part, it's worth a try.