Hey I'm new here and I have a 83 f150 that I absolutly love. Right now it has new 33" tires and is at the stock height but I want to change that. I am looking at 41" tires on ebay. How much lift does it need to clear those tires? I am thinking a 6" suspension and 3" body. Should that do it? Also where can I get basic 20" black steel wheels?

This is the suspension lift I am thinking about getting. Has anybody here had experiance with this lift?
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...25252884QQrdZ1



Heres what my truck looks like now at the stock height and new 33's. I wonder if somebody would want my tires and wheels for $500?

 

you'll need quite a big of lift. i would suggest get a 6" all spring lift and then if you need some more get out a sawzall and trim the fenders some. depending on the kind of wheelin you do it may not take much

however since i answered your question may i suggest, dont do it. ppl dont realize what all it takes to put bigger tires on their truck. most think it just takes some lift. but you gotta think about the extra horsepower its gonna take to turn those tires and then once you get going do ytou honeslty believe stock single piston half ton calipers are gonna be able to lock the tires down in a panic stop? also think about how much heavier per tire these things weigh, stock 1/2 ton axles arent built to withstand these constant stresses.

not saying dont do it or your stupid for thinkin of it or anything but these are points you need to ponder especially before going out and buying new tires and then special wheels!

o BTW, you might call some wheel companys like American Racing or Bart and see if they can build you a set of standard steel wheels with 5x5.5 lug pattern but with 20" wheel size! i dont know anyone who sells 20" steelies with 8 lug patterns off the shelf so i dont think you'll find any used sets.

got a link to the tires? i'm just curious as to what you are looking at!

-cutts-

 

Thanks for all the info. What is the largest size you recommend?
These are the tires I was wanting but you made a good point about safety. I probably wont go with these then.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor..._promot_widget

 

I'd second everything cutts said.

From what I've picked up around here, 35" is probably the biggest you can safely go with the TTB and half ton gear.

 

Alright I'll look for a nice 35" tire and use that 6" suspension lift. That should give it a good look. Where do you guys get 4x4 parts and accessories for the f150?

 

I would recommend a smaller lift for TTB since the drop bracket tends to crack the engine crossmember with the larger lifts. As far as where to buy, get a magazine and start looking at all the companies that advertise. I got my parts from desert rat. They were the cheapest at the time.

 

The tires you were looking at were some pretty big and heavy miliatry type stuff. For a TTB front suspension, 35 is the safest max without much or any breakage. You don't need more than a 4" lift to fit 35s though, and there are better lift companies out there, but Tuff country makes adjustable drop brackets for the TTB which makes it possible to aligne after the lift, just don't waste your money on their shocks.
You will want to regear if you want any power, and I'd suggest at least 4.10 gears, IF you have a OD tranny, then 4.56s.
I'm guessing it's powered by a 300, 302 or 351W, but any of them could use some kind of mods for more power like headers and exhaust, 4v carb, and a cam shaft and lifters.

Of coarse this isn't expected to be done at one time(unless you've got the money), but it can go in any order. I personaly got my tires, then put lift, then regeared, and now trying to save to do engine work.

 

i tottally agree with what everyone.. said.. but i do beg to differ with teds 74 fords.. well i have a 6" procomp suspension lift on my 84 f-150... procomp makes crossmember strengthening brackets so your stuff doesnt crack on the frame.. just my radius arm brackets alone have 8 bolts... verses rough country which i have dealed with before there lifts are junk... only have 4 bolts on there brackets.. then on roughcountrys axle pivot brackets... they only have 3 on the one and 4 on the other .. verses my procomp where theres 10 bolt holes and the crossmember strengthening plates... and the other has 9 and a strenghting plate... .i mean yes big lifts do crack frames... but you gotta remeber.. you get wat you pay for .. if you go cheap get cheap stuff.. go expsensive.. get good stuff.. but yes... no way in hell your ttb is gonna hold up to 41's... unless you plan axles swamps.. and plan on putting dana 60's full floaters... your gonna be breaking stuff left and right.. i have 36's on my 84.. and i havent broke anything yet.. and i beat the living dog ****.. outtta it... but in your case might not get that lucky.. all depends on how much serious off roading you plan on doing but then again i have 36x10.5x15 buckshot mudders.. so also depends on the tire you use... and motor and gears you have.. i havea 351w blue printed and balanced... aluminum intake.. 4 barrel... mild cam... 3.55's for axle gears and i have a 4spd with the granny gears so.. ... alot to consider...

 

[QUOTE=blackmagic84]but i do beg to differ with teds 74 fords.. well i have a 6" procomp suspension lift on my 84 f-150... .. verses my procomp where theres 10 bolt holes and the crossmember strengthening plates... and the other has 9 and a strenghting plate... QUOTE] That's interesting to note. The ones that I have dealt with were Tuff Country and Rough Country. They don't do much for the pivot brackets. In an effort to try and help the cracking, we put in a reinforcement plate on top of the crossmember. Here's a pic:https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57420&width=2

 

Thanks guys yall have been a lot of help. Blackmagic, how do you like those buckshot mudders?

 

i ran buckshot mudders and i loved them! they grabbed pretty hard in the mud and rode smooth until the last few hundred miles i had them on.

depending on where you live i have a solid axle D44 i am trying to get rid of that would eliminate the TTB crap. and yes the 6" lift might be too much. i personally experienced the pivot bracket tearing the engine crossmember. i used some 1/4" plate on both sides of the break with some 1/2" grade 8 bolts and a weld on the other side to help keep it from tearing any further.

depending on what sort of part you are looking for these are some of the well respected companies that I have had very good luck with...

www.Completeoffroad.com = gears and roll cage accessories
www.Natltire.com = tires and wheels as well as lift kits
www.shakerbuilt.com = upgraded steering parts
www.clemson4wheel.com = winches and accessories (most everything else is jeep)
www.broncograveyard.com = just about any part you are looking for on your truck!

-cutts-

 

not bad ted... but yea.. i went through rough cuontry before.. there junk... straight up junk for the ttb atleast... yea my procomp... is awesome.. but just remeber... when you weld on a ford frame.. becuase there temperd... molded steel or w/e cant remeber the name... the frame is gonna crack right around the weld.. cuz your not spose to weld on ford frames... but i like wat you did.. smart and inginuiative... but as for 83 f-150.... i love my buck shots... there a radial rated tire.... not that loud on the highway ... extremely aggresive awesmoe in snow.. and mud... not great in sand tho...

 

Yeah, welding frames can be tricky. We are hoping not to have to deal with it on the truck that the picture is of. I have wondered if you can somehow tie the 2 pivot brackets together to maybe stiffen it up. That way the stress on one tire is transfered to two brackets. Haven't really looked at it since I don't have TTB.

BTW- post pics. I like looking at other people's stuff.

 

Bullshat!! Ford frames are just regular garden variety steel. Takes no special techniques or equipment to weld, just a competent person doing it- but thats always the case with any welding.

 

nope you've been mis-informed! Ford (as well as some other auto makers) use a special coating on the frame to help protect against rust and corrosion so that the frame will last for years of trouble free service. grind this thin coating away and its mild steel. weld as normal. dont believe me? ask any respectable welder

the best way to do it and i am quite frankly surprised i havent seen it yet is to build an beefed up engine crossmember with the TTB pivot points built in and beefed up instead of bolting longer brackets on that results in more leverage!

-cutts-