also did you see what heads he was using? he said it was a 1972 engine so assuming he used stock heads thats the d2ve heads- the worst heads ever put out by ford... 100 cc open chambers with the worst chamber design ever- they were so detonation prone that even at their stock 8-1 compression they had issues running even 91 octane- i know i had a 72 lincoln continental- im so glad they only made them for the one year... they went back to the older style chambers for 1973 and just made them bigger and didnt change them until 88 when they went fuel injection... and he didnt even port the d2ve heads... and probably didnt change the timing set to the older one, just threw a cam, carb and intake into it and expected it to make big numbers- it isnt going to happen

 

I agree completely. You have to have good heads on a 460, you need to run cam timing straight up or degree it in as per manufacture's reccomendations, a good solid ignition system, a good quality carb, a decent intake, headers, at least 9:50 compression, roller rockers, a roller cam, and be willing to say goodbye to a good deal of cash to break 500 hp with a 460. In fact I think you have to an awful lot of the speed stuff listed above to break 400 hp. I think it is possible with worked over factory heads (not his)...but just buying the aftermarket ones are the way to go because you can run really radical cams with them with no modification, get a significant valve size increase, larger runners, and run a little higher compression due to the properties of aluminum. The results are amazing with the right combintation. No arugument from me, the heads he has really suck and will limit his horsepower. They are kinda like a marathon runner running with a paint ventilator......not pretty.

 

Well. Problem after problem. One of the heads is cracked. Having a difficult time finding another D3. I have found a set of D0VE's. If I use a Comp Cam #34-231-4, E-Brock Perf. Intake, 750 carb, block bored 30 over, will a set of D0VE's be preferred? I'm not doing any racing, just looking to get in + out of the woods + in to town occasionally really fast.
steve

 

it all depends on your piston dish... if you have a big enough dish on your pistons you can use dove heads no problem, if you have flat top pistons then you have to either use d3ve heads or doves and race gas... your choice

and you should be able to find d3ve heads in any junkyard, they were used from 1973-1987 on every 460... they didnt change until 1988 when they went to fuel injection

 

Ok, I'm off to the junk yards. Er, salvage yards. steve

 

You really shouldn't have any trouble finding replacements for those heads at all - they are not rare. You will find them in any boneyard.

 

While I think these are good subjections to build horsepower in a 460 they don’t necessarily fit what Steve is trying to do. “This will be low budget, less than $1500”
I think Steve can get close to his goal with the following parts.
He is out looking for D3VE heads and with a little work they will work fine for his application.
Summit Timing set SUM-G6630 $37.95
Luneti cam and lifters LUN-61600LK $189.95
Thorley headers DTE-212Y $379.99
Edelbrock Performer intake ELD-2166 NON EGR OR $186.88
Edelbrock Performer intake ELD-3766 FOR EGR $219.95
Edelbrock Performer CARB 1411 $281.88

So for about $730 in parts (I left out the headers he can get them latter) he can have a good strong 460. I would think the rest of his budget will be eaten up by machine shop and miscellaneous parts like gaskets ect. I don’t know if he has bought rings and pistons or bearings yet. Yes there are a bunch of other things you can do but this is suppose to be a low budget build.
Bill

 

Thanks for the input Bill. I called around today + only found one that has my heads + he want's to sell the whole engine. All or nothing deal. I think I've blown my $1500 deal already. I've already got $725 tied up in buying the motor + carb. $75 in the timing set. Another $75 to 100 for another head. Machine shop bill should come in around $300. Block bored 30 over + porting heads. Istill have 300 hundo on the cam + intake. 550 on l+l headers. 125 on the motor mounts. + I still have to get new push rods, oil pump, waterpump, thermostat, etc.
This build is a perfect example of nickel + diming one to poverty. + this ain't even a racing build!
Steve

 

lol well thats the way it goes, like they say around here- take what you think its going to cost, double it and add 50%... so in the end total by that logic you will have spent $3750 on your 1500 dollar engine rebuild and i will have spent 15,000 dollars on my engine build because i was originally figuring around 6000 dollars in parts and machine work... but that 6000 number was derived from about 2 years of research... and the research continues i figure i should have between 10,000 and 15,000 into the entire truck by the time im done with all of my modifications, but thats without any body work... which is why i want to find a nice 2wd body donor... or ideally a 1958-1960 body donor because thats my favorite body style... its just the 78 f250 that i have has everything underneath that i want- np205, d44 front, d60 rear, c6 auto, and the ability to throw my built 545 in

 

Hi guys, good information in the postings. I thought I'd share my experience. I have a 1985 F250 that I installed a 1975 (I think) 460 out of a Lincoln Continental. I was going to build a 460 but I found a complete running rusty dented car that I purchased for $600. I drove the car for a couple of weeks to make sure the motor was actually good. I think I had to switch the oil pump and pick up, the oil pan and the exhaust manifolds. I had trouble with the spread bore carb and switched to a
Edlebrock performer intake and a Holley carb. I have less than $1000 total in the switch. I've been driving the truck with this engine for 2 or 3 years now and it has been great. Seems like it has twice the power of the 351M. For the last two summers I've had to haul water out of a nearby river up a steep boat ramp for the cattle. The truck pulls the goose neck trailer with 1000 gallons of water (probably about 5 tons total) out of the river with no problems. Around here it is cheaper to buy an entire car from an owner or even a car lot than to buy an engine only from a salvage yard and you will have most of the small parts you need. I doubt that the old Lincoln has the power that you will get with the rebuild but it is sure a lot more than the 351.

 

I don't mean to hijack this post Bill, but I lost the one that we originally started this conversation. I stated that I had my machine shop remove the smog bumps for $30.00 per head extra when I was having the valves done. They have a reamer designed to cut the bumps out. You wanted a picture of the port and I said I would send you a picture as soon as I got the heads back. Well I finally got the heads back and here are the pictures. (The smog bumps were removed about 5 years ago. The heads were in this time for more work) Gary

 

Maybe I am missing something but I don't see that they did anything to the ports.

 

yep... first thing that came to mind when i saw the picture- smog bumps are still there- the smog bumps are the bumps on the side of the exhaust ports... if theyd actually done what you paid them to do then those bumps on the sides would have been ground down flat

 

Gary,<O</O

Yes it looks like they did take out the Thermactor humps. Now would be a good time to go to <O</O

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/index.html<O</O

and see what you can do to finish and clean up the ports a little more. I highly recommend you pay fore the info that is on this site as it will help improve what you have done and prevent making a mistake, like hitting water, That can make that nice head a boat anchor. There is a lot of confushion on what to do and what not to do. This is why I recomend Scotts site.<O</O
Bill
<O</O

 

Thanks Bill, I do have a nice air grinder. I did some clean up by taking some of the rough spots out, but I was afraid I might go too far. The stones sure don't last long though and I am probably going to go through a lot of them. Plus the dust from those stones are really making a mess. Does anyone out there have any suggestions as to what kind of stones are best. I have already looked at the website and I think you are right about signing up. Gary