Hey guys, got an 89 F250 7.3 and when I start er up the needle is below 10 volts...like maybe around 8 volts or less. Anyways, I had a severe problem after work tonight. I cranked about 4 times...just didn't wanna crank over, and eventually the batteries just died. I had to get a boost...and I thought that it was pretty pathetic.

I have 2 motomaster eliminator batteries underneath the hood, I don't know if they're good quality or not and I think these are from 2004. Do batteries just die that quickly? Should I check to see if there's enough electrolyte filled to the top? If I'm wanting to buy new batteries, what is a really good brand? Another thing I noticed is that when I plug the truck in, it starts first try every time. I'm not sure if this is a glow plug problem or a battery problem. Should diesels be able to start at 20 degrese without being plugged in? What do you guys think?

 

If 10 is all you can get, you have a charging problem, not a battery problem.

 

I can't even get 10, the needle sits in the red area after the light goes off. What's keeping the batteries from charging properly? The altenator is working just fine, it's the batteries themselves that aren't working properly.

 

Btw, when the motor turns over, it charges just about all the way to the middle. Just one tick off from the exact middle, and when I get going down the road it charges up one more "tick", but when I'm parked it goes back down one.

 

i have the same problem every so often my batteries just die out of no where than i get jumped and there good for like another month or so ????? still have not figured out the problem.

 

You both may have battery cable problems.

To eliminate the batteries, have them load tested.
One of the wires must be removed from one of batteries during the test.
Daul batteries tested together will hid problems in one or both of the batteries.
Most parts house people are not used to checking dual battery setups.

After you load test the batteries have the alternator output tested.
If your batteries show low and the alternator is not putting out 13.8 volts and about 45 or 50 amps then that is the problem. Alternators for the diesel have an output rating of 65 amps on the low end to 150 amps on the high end when you replace them.
The bigger output ones cost a lot more than the little ones.

The last one I replaced was putting out 13.8 volts and 7 amps, but the battery test showed my batteries were low. The parts hose guy said I needed to charge my batteries. I looked at him and said "That is a 150 amp alternator, it is puting out 7 amps, give me another alternator". He tried to tell me it was not the alternator, but the engine has been starting like it should for over a year now.

If the starter, alternator and batteries all test out OK, then it has to be the cables.
I had that problem several years ago, it was the passenger side battery positive terminal. I cut the terminal open and it was full of corrosion inside, looked OK from the outside though. The only indication externally was you could tell it had been hot before looking at the insulation near the clamp.

 

Oh, you didn't say anything about it working after it gets started.

What Dave said.

 

I have had the same problems with corrosion that Dave was just explaining. I don't know why but the batteries and cables in my 89 IDI corrode very severely and rather quickly. Is there an explanation?

 

One quick way to check the connections on batteries is try cranking then immediately feel the connections on batteries. If warm then remove and clean/replace depending on corrosion.

 

Disconconnect the cables, check the resistance or do what I did cut the cables [same as Dave]lol

 

My battery terminal to battery cable clamp was clean, but the passenger side cable clamp was hot after starting the engine. The corrrosion was inside the clamp where it could not be seen.

One night I drove it over to a friends house, started fine for the ride over there, 20 minutes later it barely clicked the solenoid when I tried to start it. He gave me a jump start and when I got home I got out the 4" grinder with a cut off wheel. When I cut the clamp open I had to wonder how it ever started at all for a long time. It was bad inside the clamp.

 

1, Go to COSTCO and pick up two new Kirkland 1,000 Cold Cranking Amp batteries. Those Motomaster batteries are no good for what you are trying to do. I have yet to buy something good from the "Canadian Trash" store that I have not regretted buying.

2, Do you have battery warming blankets?. I thought that battery warming blackets were standard equipment for trucks that far up north.

3, Check and replace your battery cables as required.

4, Get your starter tested, running those crappy batteries could have done some pretty good damage to your starter.

5, At your ambient temperatures, plugging the truck in at night is a good idea. It will keep down unnecessary wear and tear on your starting and charging system.


Hope this helps....

Seb.....

 

Whoa thanks guys for the input, I really appreciate it. I'm gonna bring the truck into the shop next week when I get paid and get them to figure out what the problem is. Unfortunately Hamberger, we don't have a Costco here. Our franchises are limited to walmart and crappy tire. Keep in mind that I just bought the truck off this guy and he said everything was working properly. But when I tested the truck out in august and it was relatively warm out, the truck had no problems starting at all. It fired up on the first try.

For what I paid for, it seems pretty decent, but all vehicles have mechanical problems...so I wasn't expecting a work of art here. I haven't bought a battery blanket yet...and I'm guessing that I should. Do I just pick one up from the Ford dealership...or what? I don't want anyting from crappy tire. It hasn't dipped down really deep in temperature yet, maybe around -6 lately, but thats about it. My buddy said that one of the batteries could have a bad cell and to check for a "bulge" on the battery, is this true? There's a bit of blue stuff on the positive terminal on the passenger side battery...and I'm guessing I should clean that crap out. So from what you guys are tellin me, its either the batteries themselves, cables or the altenator?

Thanks guys, I'll check into it.

 

Again, those "crappy tire" batteries are going to cause you many headaches. Do yourself a favour and get rid off them ASAP if you want this truck to start if it gets cold out.

I paid $CDN 150 for two new Kirkland batteries at Costco. Kirkland batteries are made by Johnstone Controls which used to make the original Sears DieHard Battries before they started sub-contracting them out and they turned into crap.

The Kirkland batteries are basically the new DieHard battery.

Good luck....

Seb....

 

Again Seb, we DONT have any franchises like that here dude. I live in a small hick town of 20,000 people lol. So you're saying, I can buy from anywhere BUT crappy tire and walmart?