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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 11:03 PM
  #16  
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You could build a 428 and still point to the front of the block where it says "352" and stare blankely at who ever asks
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 01:32 PM
  #17  
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I'd go find a truck 360 or 390 from a '73 to '76 truck, and make a 410 or 428 out of it. I'd lean toward 410. That way, you're not maxing out the block on bore size. Usually those truck blocks (D3TE or D4TE) will go 4.130" on the bore, but why go more than you need to?

Get a 360 or 390. Preferrably the 390 because then you get rods with it. Bore it .030" over to clean up the bores. Then get 390 truck pistons, which are readily available and cheap. Use a 428 crank and standard 390 rods, balance it, put it all together, and you've got a 410. Then, use a good camshaft, port the heads, put headers on it, and a 4 barrel carburetor. Now you've got something!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 05:56 PM
  #18  
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If I use any engine i want it to be pre-1968 (no smog). But I do like your idea, and i think I'm going to use it. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt better to have a 410 then a 428 for the simple fact that parts are easier to find, and easier to interchange with FE motors? And if not I still like the idea of 410 becase just like rusty70f100 pointed out. Your not boring to much, and gives a little wiggle room.

Now I'd figure on using a 600-750cfm carb, but what exhaust size would be best suited for it. And, do cross over or "X" pipes really that much better to have?

Brandon
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 07:30 PM
  #19  
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There's a reason I recommend what I do! I recommended a 1973 or later truck motor because you'd get a D3TE or D4TE truck block. These have thicker cylinder walls than their earlier counterparts. Plus, these will have heads with hardened exhaust valve seats. You really dont have to worry about the smog. Remove air pump, plug holes in exhaust ports, forget.

Parts are about as hard to find for a 410 as a 428. Besides, this will be a custom motor anyway, so dont worry about it!

It's kind of hard to recommend a carb at this point, but yeah, something in the 600 to 750 range should be adequate.

I hear X pipes work great, although I'm running regular dual exhaust on my truck with no cross-over whatsoever. What can I say? I'm cheap.

Another option to consider, is that Scat makes a couple stroker cranks for the FE, in addition to reproduction 428 cranks. These are 4.125" and 4.25" stroke cranks. With a 4.080" bore (.030" over 360 or 390) that would get you 431.4ci, or 444.5ci, respectively. Of course this requires different rods and pistons. I dont know if this interests you, but I'm throwing it out there as an option.

Between that, intakes, various cams (hydraulic, solid, roller...), etc, there's a lot of different ways you could go here. There's actually a lot more stuff out there for these FE's than you'd think!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #20  
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A crossover pipe, either the "H" or the "X" always help low end torque and mellow the exhaust sound.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #21  
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Damn thats alot of stuff... Well I'd like to keep engine size concervitive. I don't think anything more then 410 is required lol more power there then I'd ever tap into.Although it would be kinda cool to have an odd ball engine size running under the hood. Odd engine for an odd guy

So all I'd have to do is take all the smog stuff off and then DMV wont crawl up my a$$ about it?

So if I used the early 70's block, could i mate that up to my bell house and granny 4 thats on the truck now? The torque from the engine wouldnt be to much for the ole tranny now would it? hhhmmm so many options to screw with, its actaully scary sometimes. lol I think what I'm going to do is go down to the junk yard and look around for a 360 or 390 and see what i turn up. If I could pull a 390 out of a truck at "pic-n-pull" I'd be the happeist boy in the world!

Now what kinda heads are we talking about? Should I see if I can't find just the block and buy some aftermarket heads? If its a viable option I want aluminum heads from edelbrock, or anyone. I really wana make this as light as I can (without using aluminum block). Now I'm still stuck at wheather I want the middieum riser heads or low riser. I wana good street rob engine with out sacraficing the truck characteristics of the engine if that makes sence.

Brandon
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:12 PM
  #22  
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Bear 45/70, PM me what kinda rifle your running that cal threw. And I have to say I agree with your signature!

Brandon
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 11:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by FE352
So all I'd have to do is take all the smog stuff off and then DMV wont crawl up my a$$ about it?
If you've got a 1965 truck, the DMV shouldn't be able to say **** about it. Besides, what emissions devices did they really have in 1965? Retain that (yeah right) and go about your business. They go by the year of truck, not the year of motor you put in it.

Now as to the heads. Personally, I dont think the aluminum heads are worth the money, as the stock iron heads flow *so* well with some port work. But if you're after light, that is one area to look at, along with the intake manifold. You do have some options here, other than the Edelbrocks. Dove and Blue Thunder make FE heads. See the following sites:

http://www.doveengineparts.com/
http://www.edelbrock.com/
http://store.survivalmotorsports.com...0-427-428.html
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #24  
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Here in Reno they actaully smog based on the date of the engine

Aluminum heads I guess wouldn't be needed since I wont be racing. But I love having bragging rights, and since I'm in this for the long haul I'll just go aluminum route. Tell all the ricers they are aluminum (oooo aahhhh... *fart pipe noises*)

I think that covers all my bases... Now I just need to buy the stuff to start the build. Thanks for all your help.

Brandon
 
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