i am trying to figure out why my motor gets so much flow to the top that it blows out the breathers the last 3 motors i have built have done it but one was caused from blow by but anyhow on idle it runs 50-55 psi than when it warms up it runs 35-40 i did hog out my oil passages so that might be why it dosent run at 60 or so i have a 8 qt pan 2qt filter it is a pulling motor and i ran it the other weekend held 7200rpm for around 300ft oil was at 75psi it ran good but had some oil under the hood enof to splatter the hood and get some on the headers i have heard you can block off a passage behing the timmine gear i have done that in the past but i looked into that a bit more and found out that it also resticts oil to the mains so i didnt do it on this motor is it possible that since i run a set of cheap tall valve covers with no baffel that maybe that is a big reason also i dont run evac tubes maybe that is a good idea also i head that morosso makes a oil blocking kit? it is a roller motor but i do wanna keep good flow to the top just dont wanna have it squerting out i know i can have the lifter bores restricted but i dont rilly wanna spend that kinda money and i know i can get restricted push rods but i dont rilly like that idea any help would be great thanxs

 

This is often caused by restriction in the drain passages in the heads and block. It's the main reason I alway clean them up with a grinder these passages first. With a high volume pump it is a must.

 

2 things you can do, the restrictor pushrods or putting a very small roll pin into your pushrods is a good way to go, bushing the lifter bores is of coarse the best coarse of action. Another choice or an addition to the restriction is to put external oil drainback lines on the backside of each head to the pan. Or the best would be to buy a block that has priority main oiling.

 

i would say it is the valve covers.have these same covers been on all the engines you've had problems with?you DO want a fair amount of oil to cool the valve springs.i'd try a mr gasket grommet that has only a slit in the bottom of it or a mr g. grommet plug and cut a slit in it .any time i've had a problem like this it's the oil getting sprayed on the bottom of the breather and saturating it.my 521 has nothing restricted with 80 psi pressure and doesn't blow oil out.my covers are baffled.so am i ,sometimes.

 

I agree with bronco, try a set of baffled valve covers before restricting oil to the top of the motor. I have Motorsport valve covers with a splash shield on my pulling motor with evac tubes and have never had any oil in the breathers. When I built my motor I tapped the crossover so that I could restrict the oil if I needed to. But I have never needed to. I've ran mine at 7,500 for about 350' several times.

 

i have been running the same valve covers on the last 3 motors i keep meaning to put a baffel in but never seem to get it done and i have been running the same breathers for the last 3 years and they did get saturated on the first motor this year and that was due to blow by so i am thinking of eather differnt valve covers or welding up a baffel in mine and possibly evac tubes but do theu help or? and i like the idea of external tubes to drain back into the pan i have opened up my passages in the heads and block but i think the more flow back to the pan the better

 

I also run the motorsport valve covers with the baffles in them, and exhaust evac system and have no problems (of coarse I am running upright headers so the tubes go up instead of down) I don't spin my motor as long as you guys do pulling, but mine does see 8k on occasion and I run 75psi oil preasure just off idle all the way up.
I mentioned how to restrict it, but I also agree that putting baffles in might be the cure for you.

 

can i ask how you restricted yours and i just run a melling hv pump is there a better pump out there with out spendind 400.00 if i were to restrict the push rods would that help the oil pressure like i said i ideal around 50 psi and around 40 when it is warmed up it dose go up with the rpm's but most guys i talk to say they are running atleast 60 psi on ideal

 

The 429/460 oiling sytems is a fine one as engineered and needs little. This includes your engine, but you are operating it in an rpm range much higher than what the original design was intended by the engineers at FoMoCo. What Bear & Monster posted is what most needs to be addressed in your engine: Oil restricted pushrods and improved drainback.

Paul

 

i am gonna go with evac tubes i am gonna try to push for a rule change in our class since we can run open headers i am gonna see if we can run upright headers i think that would be eaiser to put the evac tubes on. also if i put baffels in and helped the drain back to the pan but didnt put in restricted push rods in to keep good flow to cool the valves would that be a good thing or do alll that and put restricted push rods in? i still want good flow to the top end but not 2 much

 

I think even with restricted pushrods you will be fine for getting enough oil to the top end. But with that said I am not running anything restricted on mine. As far as oil pumps the melling HV is a good pump and when properly blueprinted is a dang good pump, and you can get a very well done blueprinted melling pump from
http://www.highflowdynamics.com/
I am running thier stage 1 pump for the past 2 yrs, and for $120 it was one of the best investments I made as far as the oiling system.

 

i agree the hv pump works good i ran on for 2yrs and never had a issue but this year i am on my 2nd one i may have just had a bad one or maybe some fine metal got into it from my first blown motor this year. hey monster you are running a custom ground cam? i am thinking about it how do you like yours compared to the old one? not to get off the subject but also i am wondering witch is better 20-50 valve race oil or castrol or? and is synthetec oil better or i never run it but i hear you can also increase your rpms just by the oil i was told to go with mobil syn 15-40 but i am nmot shure what to do i hope to make thease changes in the next 4-6 weeks so i can get it to the dyno and get a base line on it befor i start with head and carb work

 

Yes I run a custom cam, and I run Royal purple synthetic oil in mine basically 10w-40 (actually type 41 racing oil but it's 10-40 wieght)

 

how often would you recomend oil changes and is there a good filter to run with synthetic or dosent it matter?

 

Our situations are different, so I can't really give you much of an answer on how often to change it, in my case I change it about every 4 races (about 40-50 passes approx). I run the napa Gold filters.