Shocks
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Shocks
looking to replace the shocks in my 2001 ford f-150 the fronts are straight forward, but the rears are hard to get to. Tryed an 3/4' deep socket .but it was too long. A standard socket is not deep enough. Not to mention that it's a pain in the butt to get to, with the frame in the way and the opening in the frame isn't whide enough. Any special tools or suggestion to help me.
Scott
Scott
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Trussville, Alabama
Yes, a PITB.
I took mine and had it done. I believe the guy used an air wrench to let the tool do the work for him.
It did not cost much and was worth not having to hassle with it.
I do most all my own work, but sometimes it's better to pay to have something done. This was one of those cases for me.
I know of no "easy" way. Kind of a "what you see is what you get" deal.
I took mine and had it done. I believe the guy used an air wrench to let the tool do the work for him.
It did not cost much and was worth not having to hassle with it.
I do most all my own work, but sometimes it's better to pay to have something done. This was one of those cases for me.
I know of no "easy" way. Kind of a "what you see is what you get" deal.
Last edited by BrianA; Sep 26, 2006 at 09:40 PM.
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From: Southeast FLA
Well, let me suggest that you're approaching the problem like a new mechanic would.
Unless you have some love left for your old rear shocks - maybe you want to cuddle with 'em at night, maybe you want to hang 'em up on your wall as trophies - perhaps you ought to try a more direct approach to take them off: Cut 'em.
What I did was to align a blade (you can use a hacksaw, but I used a Sawzall) to cut into the rubber bushing (the shock-side one, not the nut-side one), then through the shock's rod. I imagine an expertly placed cutting torch would work the same - and that my method, or the torch, is going to be the one used when the owner drops the truck off.
Warning: the bushing is gonna smoke and stink. Do this outside with, preferably, a wind blowing for ventilation.
I'm still only coming to apply this skill that real-world mechanics use, but if it's got to come off, cut it or torch it for a faster and easier job.
Unless you have some love left for your old rear shocks - maybe you want to cuddle with 'em at night, maybe you want to hang 'em up on your wall as trophies - perhaps you ought to try a more direct approach to take them off: Cut 'em.
What I did was to align a blade (you can use a hacksaw, but I used a Sawzall) to cut into the rubber bushing (the shock-side one, not the nut-side one), then through the shock's rod. I imagine an expertly placed cutting torch would work the same - and that my method, or the torch, is going to be the one used when the owner drops the truck off.
Warning: the bushing is gonna smoke and stink. Do this outside with, preferably, a wind blowing for ventilation.
I'm still only coming to apply this skill that real-world mechanics use, but if it's got to come off, cut it or torch it for a faster and easier job.
Last edited by GammaDriver; Sep 26, 2006 at 10:42 PM.
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From: Southeast FLA
Originally Posted by berto
what about a wrench?
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Having gone through this about six months ago, this is what I found. The rear shocks are a pain no matter what you do. A ratcheting type of open end wrench will save you a lot of time, but you will still only get about a 1/4 turn on the nut due to the limited space you have to work with.
To get the old shocks off, I used a set of vice grips. Lock the vice grips on the shaft of the shock and begin to loosen the nut. The vice grips should make contact with the frame as the shock turns and prevent it from turning further.
You dont want to use the vice grips on the new shock. I installed bilstein shocks and they have a "key" on the end of the shock, where you insert an allen wrench to prevent the shaft from turning. I'm not sure how other brands of shocks address the issue though. From there just continue the slow process of 1/4 inch turnes at a time, until the shock is tight. In my case, it took me several hours to get both rear shocks installed. Good luck.
By the way, when I need new shocks again, like another poster said, I will probably save myself the aggrivation and have them installed.
To get the old shocks off, I used a set of vice grips. Lock the vice grips on the shaft of the shock and begin to loosen the nut. The vice grips should make contact with the frame as the shock turns and prevent it from turning further.
You dont want to use the vice grips on the new shock. I installed bilstein shocks and they have a "key" on the end of the shock, where you insert an allen wrench to prevent the shaft from turning. I'm not sure how other brands of shocks address the issue though. From there just continue the slow process of 1/4 inch turnes at a time, until the shock is tight. In my case, it took me several hours to get both rear shocks installed. Good luck.
By the way, when I need new shocks again, like another poster said, I will probably save myself the aggrivation and have them installed.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: San Mateo, CA
I forgot about the vise grips- I used them too. Probably wanted to forget about the ordeal. I believe all four shocks took about 2.5 hours, with most of the time spent on the rears.
I do recall being quoted $465 to replace all four from a local shop. $75 per shock(twice what the parts store next door wanted) and $165 to install them ($40+ each).
You might want to call around and get quotes and decide if it's worth it to have somebody do it for you. See if they'll do just the rears.
Good luck
Tim
I do recall being quoted $465 to replace all four from a local shop. $75 per shock(twice what the parts store next door wanted) and $165 to install them ($40+ each).
You might want to call around and get quotes and decide if it's worth it to have somebody do it for you. See if they'll do just the rears.
Good luck
Tim
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Trussville, Alabama
in my case I supplied the rear shocks (front were already on by me).
I believe it was about $50 to do both.
FWIW, it is the opposite case on the new body style.
Rear shocks took me a total of about 10 mins to swap both.
Front is struts. I bought the struts myself ($80 each for Monroe Reflex).
I paid a local shop $150 to install both struts and do a front end alignment.
That was cheap in my book.
I believe it was about $50 to do both.
FWIW, it is the opposite case on the new body style.
Rear shocks took me a total of about 10 mins to swap both.
Front is struts. I bought the struts myself ($80 each for Monroe Reflex).
I paid a local shop $150 to install both struts and do a front end alignment.
That was cheap in my book.
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