Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:
View Poll Results: What could be killing my F-150 while driving?
Ignition coil?
40.00%
Fuel pressure regulator?
20.00%
Cam position sensor?
20.00%
Ethanol / ethynol fuel?
20.00%
Idle air control valve?
40.00%
Mass air flow sensor?
0
0%
MAP sensor?
0
0%
TPS sensor?
40.00%
Fuel pump relay?
0
0%
Oxygen sensor?
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll

1995 F-150 stalls while driving

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 09-27-2006, 12:09 AM
xxtavixx's Avatar
xxtavixx
xxtavixx is offline
New User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I didn't read the posts, so this might be adressed. Check your distributor. When the ignitor begins to fail, it will produce a di-electric grease from over-heating. If you see the grease there, replace the ignitors or disty.

-Andrew
 
  #17  
Old 09-27-2006, 05:35 AM
subford's Avatar
subford
subford is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 23,601
Likes: 0
Received 223 Likes on 175 Posts
Originally Posted by lv2race
You may have a bad pickup coil, aka distributor stator assembly. My truck had the same problem. Ran fine driving down the road, then dies. No codes, nothing. Wait about 10 to 20 minutes (stator cool down?) and the truck started. This got progressively worse until the part finally failed.
Same thing, I was just calling it the cam pos. sensor because that is what kb5ylg was calling it.
It has been called "PIP sensor", "cam pos. sensor", "pickup coil", "distributor stator assembly" but I think the correct name for a 1995 is "Hall effect vane switch assembly". The vane switch is an encapsulated package consisting of a Hall effect device on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side.

Hall effect vane switch assembly:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...chassembly.gif
 

Last edited by subford; 09-27-2006 at 06:28 AM.
  #18  
Old 09-27-2006, 05:45 AM
subford's Avatar
subford
subford is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 23,601
Likes: 0
Received 223 Likes on 175 Posts
Originally Posted by xxtavixx
I didn't read the posts, so this might be adressed. Check your distributor. When the ignitor begins to fail, it will produce a di-electric grease from over-heating. If you see the grease there, replace the ignitors or disty.

-Andrew
I give, what are you calling the "ignitors", Spark Plugs, Ignition Coil?
I have not seen "di-electric grease" used in the distributor, maybe where the plug wires plug into the cap?

Can you explain what you are talking about?
 
  #19  
Old 09-27-2006, 09:59 AM
xxtavixx's Avatar
xxtavixx
xxtavixx is offline
New User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
whoops, I was too tired to post. I was reffering to the pick ups, but it looks like someone else beat me to it No idea why I typed ignitor. Sorry for the confusion
 
  #20  
Old 09-27-2006, 09:59 AM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question Won't die now

It hasn't died in three days, was dying every day. Things done since last stall:
Cleaned throttle body, charged battery, filled up with higher octane gasoline, weather has turned a bit cooler.

I'm thinking this points to the Idle Air Control Valve. It's at the throttle body, the cleaning fluid might have "unstuck" it?

I'm not calling this solved, being intermittent, may just be between failures.
 
  #21  
Old 09-28-2006, 06:59 PM
mississauga's Avatar
mississauga
mississauga is offline
Elder User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Maybe disconnecting the connectors and spraying the parts solved the problem. I know that in cooler weather my truck is easier to start. It has been that that way for years. Keep us informed of any changes .
 
  #22  
Old 09-29-2006, 10:23 AM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Still won't die

It still won't die. I'm still a little skeptical...intermittent problems, random intervals...

I will definitely update this if there is any progress, thanks to everyone for all the ideas.

It still might recur...
 
  #23  
Old 10-12-2006, 10:52 AM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question 1995 F150 stalling / stalls / dies while driving continues

Well it started stalling again. It got to where it is stalling every day.

I noticed that if I am alert a moment before it stalls I take my foot off the gas pedal, it will recover and not stall, and even restart up if it has just stalled momentarily, without me using the ignition switch, just taking my foot off the gas.

Gas pedal being involved, then, I suspected the TPS ( Throttle Position Sensor ). So I changed it last night. Not easiest thing, it is on the bottom of the throttle body, so had to remove the entire throttle body. I crumbled an old tube going to the exhaust vaccuum cannister, so replaced it too. I did an even more thorough job of cleanining the throttle body while I was at it. See previous posts in this thread for other actions I took previously.

It did not stall yet, but still hesitates such as when going down hill or at a tur, and when accelerating sometimes. For this reason I think I have not solved it yet.

However, it does seem a little more powerful, so cleaning the throttle body and the entry ports to the intake which were very crusty with black soot, probably helped it.

Now the check engine light stays on. I might have tripped a hard code, the egr valve was disconnected while I was working on the throttle body. I'll take the battery loose to reset the computer and see if the Check Engine light comes back. It wasn't showing a check engine light prior to removing the throttle body last night, so is more related to what I did than to the stalling issue, I think.

So my next steps after a few more days of observation will be probably to suspect the Idle Air Control Valve or the fuel pressure regulator.

Any ideas, please let me know?

THANKS!

David in Texas
 
  #24  
Old 10-12-2006, 11:06 AM
T18skyguy's Avatar
T18skyguy
T18skyguy is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Springfield, OR
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just an idea the next time it stalls on the highway or wont start try disconnecting the MAF sensor and then it may start in "limp home mode", or just disconnect it and stay in limp home mode and see if it fails again, if not then maybe thats it. If the MAF sensor is acting up it wont always set a code. As noted above a very good thing to do is disconnect and reconnect all the sensor conectors and even the big connector at the ECU and also the fuel injectors. This cleans the terminals and will sometimes solve problems.
 
  #25  
Old 10-13-2006, 11:56 AM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Unhappy Check Engine Codes

I used the paper clip jumper to pull the check engine codes. Code 122. TPS under-voltage. Does that mean my brand new TPS is bad?

Truck not stalling yet since I installed it, but it never had the Check Engine Light ( MIL ) before installing this new TPS. Truck still a little strange on acceleration sometimes.

What else could cause TPS 122 to be showing up besides the new one being bad?

Why didn't the old one show a code if it was bad/ Hmmm.

Thanks!
 
  #26  
Old 10-25-2006, 09:41 AM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question Still at it...Found On Road Dead :)

Well it has died a few more times intermittently. I was able to hook up a fuel pressure guage...it's sitting at around 38psi Key on engine off, and sits at about 30psi when idling.

Didn't try the MAF sensor yet, but shouldn't it throw a code when not functioning properly?

Thing is stalling intermittently, no code, takes 5 to 10 minutes dead before will start again.

TPS is new, has fuel pressure, has spark, ignition module is new, plugs and wires and distributor cap are new.

Suspects currently are IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, IGNITION COIL, MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. But wouldn't these throw codes if faulty?
 
  #27  
Old 10-26-2006, 02:32 PM
mississauga's Avatar
mississauga
mississauga is offline
Elder User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I have re read through the posts and it almost sounds like there is a loose wire or ground. Don't replace any parts unless you can confirm they are faulty.
 
  #28  
Old 10-26-2006, 03:57 PM
kb5ylg's Avatar
kb5ylg
kb5ylg is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks mississaugua

I know you're wisdom is correct, however
(1) I don't know how to test IAC, Ig Coil or TPS...besides codes...
(2) What ever it is goes away in several minutes then runs fine.

I'll certainly put a continuity test to the grounds and so forth...

What about a loose relay? I see two of those up near my ig coil, and on touch they seem a little loose in the saddle...

Thanks!
 
  #29  
Old 10-26-2006, 05:04 PM
subford's Avatar
subford
subford is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 23,601
Likes: 0
Received 223 Likes on 175 Posts
Originally Posted by kb5ylg
What about a loose relay? I see two of those up near my ig coil, and on touch they seem a little loose in the saddle...
Those are not relays, they are you AIR solenoids.
The two main things that cause problems like this are the sensor in the distributor and ignition coil.
 
  #30  
Old 10-26-2006, 05:14 PM
mississauga's Avatar
mississauga
mississauga is offline
Elder User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
On a other post , other problem subford had suggested using a hair dryer or a heat gun (cant remember which) to try and duplcate conditions to get a circut to fail. subford do you think it would be of any benefit in this case?
Roger
 


Quick Reply: 1995 F-150 stalls while driving



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:45 AM.