View Poll Results: What could be killing my F-150 while driving?
Mass air flow sensor?
0
0%
MAP sensor?
0
0%
Fuel pump relay?
0
0%
Oxygen sensor?
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll
1995 F-150 stalls while driving
#16
#17
Originally Posted by lv2race
You may have a bad pickup coil, aka distributor stator assembly. My truck had the same problem. Ran fine driving down the road, then dies. No codes, nothing. Wait about 10 to 20 minutes (stator cool down?) and the truck started. This got progressively worse until the part finally failed.
It has been called "PIP sensor", "cam pos. sensor", "pickup coil", "distributor stator assembly" but I think the correct name for a 1995 is "Hall effect vane switch assembly". The vane switch is an encapsulated package consisting of a Hall effect device on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side.
Hall effect vane switch assembly:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...chassembly.gif
Last edited by subford; 09-27-2006 at 06:28 AM.
#18
Originally Posted by xxtavixx
I didn't read the posts, so this might be adressed. Check your distributor. When the ignitor begins to fail, it will produce a di-electric grease from over-heating. If you see the grease there, replace the ignitors or disty.
-Andrew
-Andrew
I have not seen "di-electric grease" used in the distributor, maybe where the plug wires plug into the cap?
Can you explain what you are talking about?
#20
Won't die now
It hasn't died in three days, was dying every day. Things done since last stall:
Cleaned throttle body, charged battery, filled up with higher octane gasoline, weather has turned a bit cooler.
I'm thinking this points to the Idle Air Control Valve. It's at the throttle body, the cleaning fluid might have "unstuck" it?
I'm not calling this solved, being intermittent, may just be between failures.
Cleaned throttle body, charged battery, filled up with higher octane gasoline, weather has turned a bit cooler.
I'm thinking this points to the Idle Air Control Valve. It's at the throttle body, the cleaning fluid might have "unstuck" it?
I'm not calling this solved, being intermittent, may just be between failures.
#21
#22
#23
1995 F150 stalling / stalls / dies while driving continues
Well it started stalling again. It got to where it is stalling every day.
I noticed that if I am alert a moment before it stalls I take my foot off the gas pedal, it will recover and not stall, and even restart up if it has just stalled momentarily, without me using the ignition switch, just taking my foot off the gas.
Gas pedal being involved, then, I suspected the TPS ( Throttle Position Sensor ). So I changed it last night. Not easiest thing, it is on the bottom of the throttle body, so had to remove the entire throttle body. I crumbled an old tube going to the exhaust vaccuum cannister, so replaced it too. I did an even more thorough job of cleanining the throttle body while I was at it. See previous posts in this thread for other actions I took previously.
It did not stall yet, but still hesitates such as when going down hill or at a tur, and when accelerating sometimes. For this reason I think I have not solved it yet.
However, it does seem a little more powerful, so cleaning the throttle body and the entry ports to the intake which were very crusty with black soot, probably helped it.
Now the check engine light stays on. I might have tripped a hard code, the egr valve was disconnected while I was working on the throttle body. I'll take the battery loose to reset the computer and see if the Check Engine light comes back. It wasn't showing a check engine light prior to removing the throttle body last night, so is more related to what I did than to the stalling issue, I think.
So my next steps after a few more days of observation will be probably to suspect the Idle Air Control Valve or the fuel pressure regulator.
Any ideas, please let me know?
THANKS!
David in Texas
I noticed that if I am alert a moment before it stalls I take my foot off the gas pedal, it will recover and not stall, and even restart up if it has just stalled momentarily, without me using the ignition switch, just taking my foot off the gas.
Gas pedal being involved, then, I suspected the TPS ( Throttle Position Sensor ). So I changed it last night. Not easiest thing, it is on the bottom of the throttle body, so had to remove the entire throttle body. I crumbled an old tube going to the exhaust vaccuum cannister, so replaced it too. I did an even more thorough job of cleanining the throttle body while I was at it. See previous posts in this thread for other actions I took previously.
It did not stall yet, but still hesitates such as when going down hill or at a tur, and when accelerating sometimes. For this reason I think I have not solved it yet.
However, it does seem a little more powerful, so cleaning the throttle body and the entry ports to the intake which were very crusty with black soot, probably helped it.
Now the check engine light stays on. I might have tripped a hard code, the egr valve was disconnected while I was working on the throttle body. I'll take the battery loose to reset the computer and see if the Check Engine light comes back. It wasn't showing a check engine light prior to removing the throttle body last night, so is more related to what I did than to the stalling issue, I think.
So my next steps after a few more days of observation will be probably to suspect the Idle Air Control Valve or the fuel pressure regulator.
Any ideas, please let me know?
THANKS!
David in Texas
#24
Just an idea the next time it stalls on the highway or wont start try disconnecting the MAF sensor and then it may start in "limp home mode", or just disconnect it and stay in limp home mode and see if it fails again, if not then maybe thats it. If the MAF sensor is acting up it wont always set a code. As noted above a very good thing to do is disconnect and reconnect all the sensor conectors and even the big connector at the ECU and also the fuel injectors. This cleans the terminals and will sometimes solve problems.
#25
Check Engine Codes
I used the paper clip jumper to pull the check engine codes. Code 122. TPS under-voltage. Does that mean my brand new TPS is bad?
Truck not stalling yet since I installed it, but it never had the Check Engine Light ( MIL ) before installing this new TPS. Truck still a little strange on acceleration sometimes.
What else could cause TPS 122 to be showing up besides the new one being bad?
Why didn't the old one show a code if it was bad/ Hmmm.
Thanks!
Truck not stalling yet since I installed it, but it never had the Check Engine Light ( MIL ) before installing this new TPS. Truck still a little strange on acceleration sometimes.
What else could cause TPS 122 to be showing up besides the new one being bad?
Why didn't the old one show a code if it was bad/ Hmmm.
Thanks!
#26
Still at it...Found On Road Dead :)
Well it has died a few more times intermittently. I was able to hook up a fuel pressure guage...it's sitting at around 38psi Key on engine off, and sits at about 30psi when idling.
Didn't try the MAF sensor yet, but shouldn't it throw a code when not functioning properly?
Thing is stalling intermittently, no code, takes 5 to 10 minutes dead before will start again.
TPS is new, has fuel pressure, has spark, ignition module is new, plugs and wires and distributor cap are new.
Suspects currently are IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, IGNITION COIL, MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. But wouldn't these throw codes if faulty?
Didn't try the MAF sensor yet, but shouldn't it throw a code when not functioning properly?
Thing is stalling intermittently, no code, takes 5 to 10 minutes dead before will start again.
TPS is new, has fuel pressure, has spark, ignition module is new, plugs and wires and distributor cap are new.
Suspects currently are IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, IGNITION COIL, MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. But wouldn't these throw codes if faulty?
#27
#28
Thanks mississaugua
I know you're wisdom is correct, however
(1) I don't know how to test IAC, Ig Coil or TPS...besides codes...
(2) What ever it is goes away in several minutes then runs fine.
I'll certainly put a continuity test to the grounds and so forth...
What about a loose relay? I see two of those up near my ig coil, and on touch they seem a little loose in the saddle...
Thanks!
(1) I don't know how to test IAC, Ig Coil or TPS...besides codes...
(2) What ever it is goes away in several minutes then runs fine.
I'll certainly put a continuity test to the grounds and so forth...
What about a loose relay? I see two of those up near my ig coil, and on touch they seem a little loose in the saddle...
Thanks!
#29
Originally Posted by kb5ylg
What about a loose relay? I see two of those up near my ig coil, and on touch they seem a little loose in the saddle...
The two main things that cause problems like this are the sensor in the distributor and ignition coil.
#30