hey all I found something that if you can work the system right might save you some money and bloody knuckles. Come to find out there was a recall on the TFI/ ignition module on these trucks come to find out the recall actually states that once the module gets over 270 degrees they fail and cause the truck to stall and once they cool down they start working again. take a look at this website and it will tell you what years abd maybe how to get it fixede under warranty. I am pretty sure this is the answer for all our problems because we are having the same problem.

Ford TFI Module National Class Settlement | The Center for Autosafety

 

ok I am at a total loss now. I have replaced the starter solenoid,, the ignition module and the coil and still am not getting spark. any other suggestions fellows. and in case I didnt say i have the same year, make and model BII as cb88.

 

Do you have power on the coil + while cranking? If you do, have you changed the pickup sensor inside the distributor?

 

I have not changed the pickup coil, however in the midst of desperation and the need to just hear my truck running I jumped the starter solenoid which to my surprise actually caused the truck to start which leads me to believe that it is actually the ignition switch. or the 9v bypass wire from the solenoid to the ignition module. I bought the new switch and will be putting it in tomorrow. If that does not work than I am going to splice a new 9v bypass line. I would think if its the pickup coil that it still would not of started when i jumped the soleniod.

Jonathan

 

well I figured out the problem on my 88 BII and it was the EEC Power Relay had gone out along with the EEC wire harness. These things have to be replaced in the shop due to the need for reprogramming. I did not think that an 88 would need reprograming but it did. Had those replaced and reprogrammed and it works wonderfully. hope this helps everyone else.

 

bump!

yeah, old thread.

Im having a similar problem on my 96 ranger. I think its a no spark in crank issue.

Truck will crank forever and not start. Sometimes if I catch it just right I can release the key in mid stroke and it will fire.

I can always instantly start the truck if I put the key in RUN and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver.

Anyhelp would be great.

New battery, New starter, and New solenoind all with in the last 4 months. Truck is not a DD and has been sitting. I do start it up and move it/warm it up very often.

 

Also not sure if the previous info applies the same to my truck since its newer than the bronco ii

 

Change the ignition switch. I normally don't just say "change something" without doing some troubleshooting, but I just had to change mine out on my 86 ranger for the same reason, though mine would "try" to start but as soon as I let up on the key it would quit.

 

I know this is an old post, but I'll reply just the same, what you have is a bad ballist resister. The resister shuts off the electric flow to the coil while the cranking the engine. Find the resister whether the engine is external resisted ( it should be a porcelain looking thing mounted on the firewall with two wires attached. Jump the two wires and it should start.
If the engine is internally resisted change the coil.

 

So bottom line,what's responsible for this intermittent spark??

 

There is not "one cause" for this problem. Any of the above can cause it, you just have to troubleshoot to find out which one it is.

 

have you fixed this? Has anyone figured out the answer to this? The original post

 

I hope it's okay to hitchhike and dig up an old post, I'm not sure all the questions were answered?

Similar problem here with a 1975 350 Econoline 460cid 7.5l
Intermittent no spark from the coil - no matter if hot or cold
No spark until I release the key
Shorting across the solenoid does not solve it for me (turns over but no spark)
Replaced ignition coil, no help
Hotwiring from the battery (+) to coil (+) doesn't help
Hotwiring from the battery (+) to the red wire coming to the ignition module doesn't help (should eliminate switch problem?)

So for a 1975 DuoSpark, pre-TFI, it could be...

*Brown wire running from solenoid to coil

*DSII ignition module

*Pickup coil/stator

*Resistor wire prior to or at splice(?)

*Starter drawing too much power

*Bad ground somewhere

*Short somewhere

Anything else possible?

I'm broke down in a rural area and multimeter and "icepick" circuit tester will finally be here tomorrow.

I can run the DSII troubleshooting procedure (lost the link but downloaded the file) and will try troubleshooting the rest of the components and wiring.

Any tips, tricks, or hints would be appreciated and I will post a report when I get done.

@Numbersdummy gave me a lot of help in my original post and I had almost decided to just throw all the possible parts at it I could think of (EIM, stator, solenoid) but I'd rather just diagnose it for real because it could be "simple" like an intermittent short in the resister wire..? I just don't know

Any other experiences or clues?

 

I would throw a ignition module at it.

 

Maybe this is the DSII troubleshooting procedure you are talking about.

https://www.pittauto.com/customer/pi...20Ignition.pdf

Or this one.
http://carrepairworld.blogspot.com/2...ii-system.html

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