Not true.
The DuraSpark Ignitions from the mid 70's through the late 70's had them.

 

No it did not, the start and run for the Ignition are tied together for the 88 BII.

 

I see we have a 88 BII and a 1977 f150 going in the same thread. I missed that, thus the comment about the TFI not having the resistor. Subford's on track though.

 

Yes he is my bust.

 

I'll just be da....no, a module fixed the *&^*# thing. I've had module problems in the past but this was new to me!!! As my old uncle said once, " you never get too old to learn a new trick. Thanks guy's, Tom.

 

Thats great stockcar, glad you fixed yours. I havent had time to mess with mine anymore but I will update the thread as soon as I have anything new.(hopefully the solution) Thanks for all the help

 

I'll just add one more thought, if the starter draws to much current there may not
be enough left to fire the ignition. I have seen this happen.

 

Do i just check that at the battery? How much voltage drop is considered o.k. when cranking? thanks for the suggestion also.

 

Got a similar (but opposite) problem on a 89 F 700 with 429 engine. Truck cranks when cold---but ignition cuts off after running at idle for a couple of minutes. No fire coming to coil at that point-----sets for awhile and apparently cools off and will re-crank, but shut off after a couple of minutes.

Have replaced module (brain box), distributor pick up module, coil, and ignition switch. Immediately prior to the problem showing up----I had just replaced the starter. Everything was running fine prior to replacing starter. Replaced starter after nose piece breaking (would not engage)---not sure what happened to cause the starter failure---sounded like engine tried to crank and kicked back. Pull started truck and came home and then swapped out starter. Have not been able to keep it running since. Am wondering if I had a ignition failure that caused the starter failure??----but truck ran fine after pull starting.

When replacing the starter---Could I have pinched or broken any wire leading on to the ignition???-----or is there a circuit breaker in the ignition line that is possible weak????

Got me bum-fuzzled for right now. Appears to be same ignition system that I had on an 84 Bronco with a 351 engine (square brain box on fender---with conventional coil).

Sorry about posting in on this thread, but looks like we may all be chasing a similar problem. Maybe all of us will learn something here. Any help appreciated----hoping to work on it some more tomorrow.

Thanks---

Delta Dirt
Avon, Ms 38723

 

One other comment to my above post on the F 700.

When I'm not getting fire at the coil (after it shuts off)----I am not getting ignition fire to the brake warning buzzer in the cab (truck has the electric/hydraulic brake system that has a warning buzzer when the engine is not running). When engine quits----the brake buzzer is also dead.

When I am getting fire to the coil----the brake buzzer is also working. I keep thinking circuit breaker, broken wire, etc.. Its obivious that I'm losing my ignition somewhere along the line.

Thanks again

Delta Dirt
Avon, Ms 38723

 

Delta Dirt

I would say Ignition switch on yours.
Also check all of your grounds and battery cables at both ends.

 

When it won't run, put a testlight or meter on the coil + if you want to be sure that's the problem.

 

Stop changing parts. Find the problem by testing the Ignition wires while cranking. This may lead you to a faulty part like the ignition module, but will likley lead you to a broken wire. Also shortbed1 (above) is dead wrong many electonic ignition systems have the 12v lead from the solenoid to the coil including my 78. Get the wiring diagrams, and check at the fire wall where wires can rub and short, and check around the engine where the get the hottest.

 

I found a site that might be of help. I just replaced a distributor in a 89 B-II
Good luck.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm

 

Well Cb88 if I didt know better I woulkd of thought that I wrote you post. I also Have an 88 BII 2.9 4x4 with the exact same problem. I have replaced the soleniod and battery cables. My problems started about a month and a half ago when I lost my fuel pumps. I found out after doing some testing that I was not fetting the 12v from the ignition to the relay needed to ingage the fuel pumps so I ran a jumper line from the fuse panel to the relay totally bypassing the 12v line out of the ignition. now I am having the exact same problem with not getting spark until I let off the key. I am getting ready to replavce the ignition module and hopefully it will work if not I can promise you there will be an exploding BII in VA