Advice needed
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Advice needed
I have a 2000 F350 CC dually 4X4, manual tranny, 4" downpipe, 5" straight pipe, 75 hp chip (dont know which kind, plugs into computer box) Airaid filter and box.
Just pulled about a 12000# load of corral panels (lots of wind resistance) from Duncan AZ to Hays Ks, NM being pretty much up hill all the way, I noticed my truck would be gutless when it fell below 2000 rpm, turbo would stall. I was trying to maintain 70 mph but would pull down to 50 - 55 on on the tall hills. Am I expecting too much or is this where a little back pressure in my exhaust would help?
Just pulled about a 12000# load of corral panels (lots of wind resistance) from Duncan AZ to Hays Ks, NM being pretty much up hill all the way, I noticed my truck would be gutless when it fell below 2000 rpm, turbo would stall. I was trying to maintain 70 mph but would pull down to 50 - 55 on on the tall hills. Am I expecting too much or is this where a little back pressure in my exhaust would help?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Sounds like you need to shift down.
After that - these turbos have a reputation for stalling out with a chip and a big load adn that needs to be addressed.
There's a LOT of options on that one. Bigger turbo, van turbo, bigger intake housing, Wicked wheel, (helps but doesn't cure).
Try doing a search on turbochargers and you'll get a weeks worth of reading.
For myself I would get a Garret Ball bearing turbo and be done with it. $1600.00
There's lot's of other guys that swear by the van turbo, just as good and will support up to 400hp.
I like the idea of a bigger turbine wheel, so that's my personal choice.
After that - these turbos have a reputation for stalling out with a chip and a big load adn that needs to be addressed.
There's a LOT of options on that one. Bigger turbo, van turbo, bigger intake housing, Wicked wheel, (helps but doesn't cure).
Try doing a search on turbochargers and you'll get a weeks worth of reading.
For myself I would get a Garret Ball bearing turbo and be done with it. $1600.00
There's lot's of other guys that swear by the van turbo, just as good and will support up to 400hp.
I like the idea of a bigger turbine wheel, so that's my personal choice.
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Thanks Kwik that helps a bunch. During the actual drive I was begining to think something was wrong with the truck. I did downshift, that 50-55 was in 4th gear not in OD. I did not have to go to 3rd. I stayed in which ever gear it took to keep my rpms up. Honestly I really felt sick when a Dodge pulling an RV passed me going up hill, I havnt had that happen before, but I dont normally pull loads like this.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I'm hoping you have gauges as well. When I pull a hill with that sort of weight the boost and EGT goes right up. I have the stock turbo with the Wicked wheel installed and the wastegate connected with the control rod set to open at 10 psi and I still get this.
I don't get any stalling with the WW unless I stack the Predator tune with a leftover 5.6k mod that I haven't removed since I bought the tuner. Then the EGT goes straight up into the red zone somewhere and the intake wheel starts to chirp like an angry bird.
I don't get any stalling with the WW unless I stack the Predator tune with a leftover 5.6k mod that I haven't removed since I bought the tuner. Then the EGT goes straight up into the red zone somewhere and the intake wheel starts to chirp like an angry bird.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Originally Posted by Bar L
I have a 2000 F350 CC dually 4X4, manual tranny, 4" downpipe, 5" straight pipe, 75 hp chip (dont know which kind, plugs into computer box) Airaid filter and box.
Just pulled about a 12000# load of corral panels (lots of wind resistance) from Duncan AZ to Hays Ks, NM being pretty much up hill all the way, I noticed my truck would be gutless when it fell below 2000 rpm, turbo would stall. I was trying to maintain 70 mph but would pull down to 50 - 55 on on the tall hills. Am I expecting too much or is this where a little back pressure in my exhaust would help?
Just pulled about a 12000# load of corral panels (lots of wind resistance) from Duncan AZ to Hays Ks, NM being pretty much up hill all the way, I noticed my truck would be gutless when it fell below 2000 rpm, turbo would stall. I was trying to maintain 70 mph but would pull down to 50 - 55 on on the tall hills. Am I expecting too much or is this where a little back pressure in my exhaust would help?
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I dont have guages, one thing I thought about was backing my chip down to 50 hp.
Anyway I am still having problems. Put it on computer, unfortunately cant remember code and cant get back on computer until tomorrow.
My mechanic said it was a fuel problem like not getting enough, changed fuel filter and still having problem.
I am losing power when it is under load runs great when empty, but when pulling a trailer it runs good for a while then its like you flip a switch and it is gutless, no smoke, no miss or anything just no power.
Fuel Pump?????
Anyway I am still having problems. Put it on computer, unfortunately cant remember code and cant get back on computer until tomorrow.
My mechanic said it was a fuel problem like not getting enough, changed fuel filter and still having problem.
I am losing power when it is under load runs great when empty, but when pulling a trailer it runs good for a while then its like you flip a switch and it is gutless, no smoke, no miss or anything just no power.
Fuel Pump?????
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More info on problem after reading some Kwiks posts -- I hate to admit this and it is a long story but I ran out of fuel 3 times the day these problems started. That obviously could be hard on the pump but could I have a problem with air in my lines?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Bar L
More info on problem after reading some Kwiks posts -- I hate to admit this and it is a long story but I ran out of fuel 3 times the day these problems started. That obviously could be hard on the pump but could I have a problem with air in my lines?
Also, if it runs great empty, it is at least getting some fuel, and would tend to lead me in another direction but could still be fuel related.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Sep 13, 2006 at 11:51 AM.
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It runs perfect empty. Last night I pulled a loaded trailer 50 miles and it ran fine for 45 miles and then lost power, not totally but a definate decrease, and then the SES light flashed. I unloaded and started home with an empty trailer and anytime there was a load on the engine, accelerating or an incline the SES light would flash and it would be doggy.
Post Fiend
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Bar L,
You definitely need to get some guages (EGT & Boost at least) and get that code read. I don't know if autozone can read the 7.3L codes or not but they do many other vehicles. Maybee you can get lucky. Does anyone else know if they do or not? If you can at least find out the code # you can post it here and someone will tell you what is up. Or if someone in a FTE club close buy might have a grogrammer like the predator. Or possibly a Diesel repair shop besides the dealer.
Does the SES light go on steady for 5-10 minutes, then go out or does it actually flash off & on? What does your water temp guage say?
The guages are extremely important - you are pulling a heavy load at a +75 hp setting. Your EGT's are most likely running in the red zone on the hills and grades while pulling that load. In addition, you might have turbo surge.
Surge + high EGT's = dead turbo
Check out dieselmanor.com for guages. Price is good and the kit comes with everything you need for the do it yourselfer. A chip without guages can easily lead to costly engine repairs.
As others have said, do not let it go below 1/4 tank (until you do the tank harpoon mod). Especially while towing - you can suck air into the fuel lines.
You definitely need to get some guages (EGT & Boost at least) and get that code read. I don't know if autozone can read the 7.3L codes or not but they do many other vehicles. Maybee you can get lucky. Does anyone else know if they do or not? If you can at least find out the code # you can post it here and someone will tell you what is up. Or if someone in a FTE club close buy might have a grogrammer like the predator. Or possibly a Diesel repair shop besides the dealer.
Does the SES light go on steady for 5-10 minutes, then go out or does it actually flash off & on? What does your water temp guage say?
The guages are extremely important - you are pulling a heavy load at a +75 hp setting. Your EGT's are most likely running in the red zone on the hills and grades while pulling that load. In addition, you might have turbo surge.
Surge + high EGT's = dead turbo
Check out dieselmanor.com for guages. Price is good and the kit comes with everything you need for the do it yourselfer. A chip without guages can easily lead to costly engine repairs.
As others have said, do not let it go below 1/4 tank (until you do the tank harpoon mod). Especially while towing - you can suck air into the fuel lines.
Last edited by white Buffalo; Sep 13, 2006 at 04:53 PM.