I have a 2000 F350 Automatic Dually 4x4 with a DP chip, MBRP cool duals and AFE stage 2 air intake with the ATS turbo intake housing. I want to upgrade the outake side of the turbo and Beans Diesel Performance offers a 1.0 and 1.15 and wondering which is better for my application. Its a daily driven vehicle and also used to pull a Lance Camper with 16" utility trailer. Thanks

 

I believe you will get better spool up with the 1.0. That is what I wanted when I rebuilt mine.

 

the 1.15 is best for the engine. it makes it more efficient, as the engine has to work "not as hard" to push the exhaust through the turbine. this means it is better for the engine, you make more boost with less drive pressure. the exhuast pressure driving the turbine wheel is almost the same as the boost pressure being put out. you can see how it's alot easier for the turbocharger because the pressures are equal and there is no uneven torsional or axial load on the turbine shaft.

as you can probably tell from my campaign, i have the 1.15.

 

I was told that if I go with the 1.15 that I would loose some bottom end. I really want to put a wicked wheel for the sound would that affect on the dicision on which to use between the 1.0 and 1.5

 

to tell you the truth, with that chip, you can't tell a difference. it's not a HUGE waiting period of lag like the users who dont have them (but have only heard) say, but i have one and i can tell you that after a few miles of driving you won't notice it. you wont have to back off at 25psi in fear of harming your turbo either.

 

stroken_it7.3

do you have any info on drive pressures for a 1.0 on a stock turbo, and/or the garrett bb turbo which comes with the 1.0 on it. i have the bb and have always wondered what the drive pressures were

 

I vote 1.15, I hardly notice any lag with the 1.15. Lower EGTs too.

 

would i be able to upgrade my compressor housing and exhaust housing with the stock turbo or should i get a van turbo? im fearing for my stock turbo right now

 

Yes, you can. Or you could go with the van turbo like I did. It all depends which you can do at a reasonable price. I have $1030 invested in my van turbo, $1290 if you count the non-EBPV pedestal.

 

can you break down what you invested on your van turbo for me please

 

$680...E-bay van turbo with ATS ported housing, WW and downpipe adapter
$310...had turbo fully rebuilt
$260...dieselsite non-EBPV pedestal

 

for me, i mutated my stock turbocharger and didnt go with a van turbocharger, which has a larger exhaust wheel by a few mm. nothing to be concerned about, there was a test made and no noticeable difference.

-rebuild kit and self rebuild and install bought off ebay- $80ish
-exhaust housing $410 (www.shopdiesel.com, not recommended).
-turbine outlet adapter $100 (www.dieselinnovations.com)
-wicked wheel (prior install) $70 (www.puredieselpower.com)
-(on backorder) ATS compressor housing $405 (www.puredieselpower.com)
-non EBPV cast pedestal $250 (www.dieselsite.com)
-KCM diesel performance turbo bolt kit and seal kit $45.
$1360.

 

The stock one can be rebuilt and basically converted into a van turbo, such as I have done and like strokin suggested. You'll want to check the endplay on your stock turbo. If it's out of spec, you can either rebuild it, or go with a rebuilt van turbo. Or, do like rampage did, and have a van turbo rebuilt.

I did the test between the stock turbo with the 1.15 housing and the van turbo. Both done with an ATS housing and the same stock compressor wheel. I found the difference to be very small between the two, but preferred the stock turbo with the 1.15 housing. It spooled up just a tick faster than the actual van turbo. Peak boost was the same. The only thing I wasn't able to check was backpressure differences, but I would imagine they would be pretty small, if measurable - after all, peak boost was the same.

 

so what is suggested to get first, the 1.15 exhaust housing or the 1.15 compressor housing

 

if you do not already have a Wicked wheel or another-named compressor wheel, then the ATS compressor housing. fix the possible surge problem first.