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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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bigdog50
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Unhappy help please

I don't know if you can give me a hand with this but here it goes. I removed the 390 from my 68 F-100 to paint it and change the input transmission seal. Now everything is back together (looks great) but I can't get it to start. It turns over strong sounds like it is trying to fire up when I let off the key it stops like I wasn't trying to start it in the first place. As far as I can tell I haven't burnt any wires. The ballast resister is testing good, it has voltage at the positive side of the coil, and spark. I been messing with this for about a week and I'm starting to pull out my hair. Help please if you can.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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Bear 45/70's Avatar
Bear 45/70
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Ignition switch is bad (no power to the coil when in the start position) or you forgot to hook up the start boost wire to the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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customcab66
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my 390 did the say thing when I went to try to start it. what I ended up doing was putting a new set of points and plugs and she fired right up.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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Hypoid
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I agree with the electrical advice, check coil voltage with key in start and run positions. Any possibility the distributor might have been moved?
No mention of fuel. When you work the throttle, does fuel squirt? Lots of room for "could-be" guesses.
Could be:
The float is stuck open or closed.
The fuel system (including carb) sat long enough for varnish or condensation to set up.
You've missed a vacuum hose.
The pump went past marginal to bad.

Just how long did the engine sit?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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I found a crack in the fuel pump replaced it now we have fuel at the carb. Still don't start unless I hot wire the coil. I think it has a bad ignition switch.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Hypoid
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Check the oil level to see if it came up, oil smell like gas?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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Ok I changed the ignition switch and the ballast resister still won't start, if I take the resister it starts right up. Will this hurt anything if I run the truck without the resister? The oil doesn't smell like gas and it is still at the right level.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:38 PM
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There should not be a seperate ballast resistor. There is a resistance built into the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The extra resistance of that ballast is lowering the voltage to much. Leave it off.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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This truck had a ballast resister in it when I got almost 7 years ago I've been running the petronics electronic ignition for about 6 months with the resister in. That is why I am so confused on why it won't start now I didn't change the set up of anything electrical.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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Interesting, go through all the connections again, including the grounds. It sounds like there is just enough resistance to limit voltage at the coil.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 10:28 AM
  #11  
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It runs again! I had low voltage at the ignition pick up so I rewired a new 12 volt circuit for it. Thanks guys for your help.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 10:35 AM
  #12  
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ground wire

Be sure you have all the chassi ground wires are hooked up and the fresh paint is not in the way of your grounding.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 09:11 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bigdog50
This truck had a ballast resister in it when I got almost 7 years ago I've been running the petronics electronic ignition for about 6 months with the resister in. That is why I am so confused on why it won't start now I didn't change the set up of anything electrical.
The Pertronics needs a full 12 volts to work properly. They will work at first but will quit after awhile if you have a ballast resistor or a resistance wire in the curcuit. The older Pertronics didn't tell you to remove the resistor and there were a lot of problems with them. Then the instructions changed and tells you not to run the ballast.
 
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