When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't know if you can give me a hand with this but here it goes. I removed the 390 from my 68 F-100 to paint it and change the input transmission seal. Now everything is back together (looks great) but I can't get it to start. It turns over strong sounds like it is trying to fire up when I let off the key it stops like I wasn't trying to start it in the first place. As far as I can tell I haven't burnt any wires. The ballast resister is testing good, it has voltage at the positive side of the coil, and spark. I been messing with this for about a week and I'm starting to pull out my hair. Help please if you can.
I agree with the electrical advice, check coil voltage with key in start and run positions. Any possibility the distributor might have been moved?
No mention of fuel. When you work the throttle, does fuel squirt? Lots of room for "could-be" guesses.
Could be:
The float is stuck open or closed.
The fuel system (including carb) sat long enough for varnish or condensation to set up.
You've missed a vacuum hose.
The pump went past marginal to bad.
I found a crack in the fuel pump replaced it now we have fuel at the carb. Still don't start unless I hot wire the coil. I think it has a bad ignition switch.
Ok I changed the ignition switch and the ballast resister still won't start, if I take the resister it starts right up. Will this hurt anything if I run the truck without the resister? The oil doesn't smell like gas and it is still at the right level.
There should not be a seperate ballast resistor. There is a resistance built into the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The extra resistance of that ballast is lowering the voltage to much. Leave it off.
This truck had a ballast resister in it when I got almost 7 years ago I've been running the petronics electronic ignition for about 6 months with the resister in. That is why I am so confused on why it won't start now I didn't change the set up of anything electrical.
This truck had a ballast resister in it when I got almost 7 years ago I've been running the petronics electronic ignition for about 6 months with the resister in. That is why I am so confused on why it won't start now I didn't change the set up of anything electrical.
The Pertronics needs a full 12 volts to work properly. They will work at first but will quit after awhile if you have a ballast resistor or a resistance wire in the curcuit. The older Pertronics didn't tell you to remove the resistor and there were a lot of problems with them. Then the instructions changed and tells you not to run the ballast.