How does the dealer do it?

Gene

 

Not sure, the look I got opening the doghouse, you couldn't pay me $1000 to do it, and I got a look at a 5.4 pulled out of a Expedition, plug arrangement is a head ache even when out in the open.

 

I just had to change out the right exhaust manifold. The good news is that it's a great time to change that pia #1 plug. I'm no sooner done with that, and I notice I have the oil pan rust problem. Right about now I'm very grateful for scotch.

 

I just finished replacing the plugs and wires after having read all these threads. My approach was to remove the passengers side front wheel AND get the dog house out of the way.
I jacked up the front end as high as I could get it(am 66 yrs old and I just don't bend the way I used to.) so that I could "fit" inside the wheel well. I found a space between the top of the spring mount assembly and the chassis where I could get a 3/8 ", 18" long extension bar and knuckle joint through THEN I could fit the plug socket on to the knuckle joint and remove the #1 plug. I tried it through the space available after you remove the dog house, support bracket and move the aux air valve out of the way, but I just could not get at the #1 plug with a stubby 3/8 inch ratchet and plug socket in such a way that I felt comfortable in applying torque to the plug to get it out. Plug #2 was a snap through the wheel well----#3,#4 were a snap with the dog house out of the way.
The driver side was a piece of cake through the dog house opening.
In fitting a new distributor cap I inadvertantly lost the vent cap in the deep dark guts of the engine. I took my shop vac, turned it on "blow" full blast and lo and behold ,the little bugger flew out onto the ground.
When you get the new plug wires at the store COUNT THEM BEFORE YOU LEAVE. You should have 9 pieces, NOT 8. You should have 8 spark plug wires AND the wire going from the ignition device to the distributor . I have change d a lot of spark plug wires in my day and I have never been "shorted a wire" before yesterday but it happened and I had to make another blasted trip to the parts store. BTW with 99k miles on them those plugs looked awfully clean but after deciding to change the wires, I was not going to leave in the original spark plugs.

Hope this helps somebody.

 

This is an old thread but I wanted to ask if any members did a compression check while they did the plugs,etc?

If so, did you need an extension to reach the front PS cylinders? I have an Actron gauge that has the rubber hose that is about 1 ft. long.

I just bought a 93 E150 with the 5.8 that has 114k miles on it and is in pretty good shape but runs rough and needs a tuneup and frontend work. I'd like to check it out fully before I put any more money into it.

Thanks in advance..

Bob

 

Funny this thread should show up today as I had my plugs and wires done last night by 2 friends. (I'm in a wheelchair) Mine is a '94 with a 302ci and this is the first change under my ownership. The driver side bank had all plugs R&R in 20 minutes. Passenger side, the front 2 were hard to access and may have taken 1/2 hour just for those. All plug work was done thru the doghouse. What took the most of the time was removing and routeing the new plug wires. Air intake box and hoses to the intake were removed and it was tight quarters again on the passenger side. Distributor cap and rotor button were replaced as well. Autolite 25's were removed from the previous owner's care and I chose Autolite APP25 (double platinum) so I shouldn't have to worry about them anytime soon. The difference before & after was a startling! It ran and idled ok before but now, the smoothness under any condition feels like a fresh rebuild under the hood.
The "cut to match" Nippon Denso wire set had 9 plugwires in it. I was wise to this ploy and set it aside.

 

^
How many miles on your van? The PO of this van bought it in '04 with 82k on it so he's only put 32k on it in 13 years. He lived on a dusty,gravel road and I really want to check the compression even the runs OK. With the difficulty of getting to the plugs, it seems also that it would be kinda hard to get a screw in gauge adapter in there also. I might try to find one of those rubber ones that you just press hard into the plug opening.

I bought a Duralast Gold wire set from Autozone and I'm hoping they are the right lengths. I'll be tying string to each one as I pull it out, then match it up for length with a new one, then pull the string the other way. I hope that works OK.

BTW: My '93 looks very much like yours with the mid-high top,running boards,etc. except it is a cream color plus the tan at the bottom.

 

i am not sure about the 93 but my 88, I access the two front plugs from the passenger side frot wheel. I was also able to thread a compression gauge into the two front plug holes that way too.

 

Oh thanks! That's good to know. I live in an apartment and don't have a garage to work on stuff so I'll be doing it under a shade tree at a local park.

I wanted to do it all at once, in one day, so I was trying to make sure I have everything I need. I have peeked around the LF tire and do see one of the plugs, so removing the wheel seems like it would be a good option. We'll see...

 

Yes, a few plugs on the right side are much easier to access with the wheel off.

 

120,000. I believe the original owner parked it for 7 years due to declining health.

 

Did you have to do much work from it sitting 7 years?

 

My 93 looks just like the pic in jeffreyclay's pic except I don't have the bubble top and have aluminum running boards. Other than white, this seems to be a popular color here. My wife and I have disabilities and I really like that the van is so much easier to get in & out of aznd so much smoother riding than my dodge 4x4! When it comes time for a tune up it's time to call my 3 sons'! They did the tune up on my class C with 460 so they know what to expect.

 

A few come to mind. Dry rot on the tires, rear main seal, dry rot on all stereo speakers foam surround. To sell it the original owner had to drop gas tank and clean, replace fuel pump & filter and a new battery. Van is water tight, all seals and door gaskets are good. No bee's nests or mice.

 

That only work for up to the '91's, the engine is placed further back from the bulk head, more into the van interior.

'92+ the best way to get to plug #1 is remove the alternator.
Takes maybe 5+ minutes and get plug #2 at the same time.