Rik-

Your gross combined weight rating (GCWR) goes up from 13,500lbs to 15,000lbs with the 4.10 axle. What that means is that your towed weight capacity would increase by 1500lbs. However, Ford has your truck listed with the same maximum trailer capacity as a 3.73 equipped truck, 8800lbs. But let's set if I can explain this before you think you got jipped out of something.

Here's where limits and ratings get confusing:
Ford has your GCWR at 15,000lbs
The max trailer weight and your truck's GVWR add up to 16,500lbs
You're limited by the 15,000lbs following the lowest of the factory maximums.
So, you can either max out the truck bed payload to get the truck to weigh 7700lbs - which would give you a max trailer weight of 7300lbs (7700+7300=15000)
-or-
you can get the truck down to a 6200lb weight (payload and passengers, plus weight of the truck), which would max out both trailer weight (8800lbs) and GCWR (15,000lbs).

The 3.73 trucks would be limited by the 13,500lb GCWR which would knock the calculations down by 1500lbs in the previous areas - so that restricts the owners of those models more.

Did I lose anyone?

Pros with maxing out the ratings - Hey! You can buy a bigger travel trailer, you haul more, etc... Cons - gas mileage, possible increased wear of the suspension components (but inside of factory tolerances - should be no biggie)

Tires are going to depend on what you're willing to spend. Note that, in order to keep your ratings, you have to go with the load rating of at least 'D' - this is part of the truck's design. That D is what is indicated in the tire size (LT 245/70R16D). I use 'E' for no reason other than that was available at the time - this gives you a rougher ride since the side wall is stiffer. I tend to buy generics and never have had any issues... other people swear by factory brand names. My last set was $93 a piece, new + taxes, mounting, balancing, stems and other fees. The factory Goodyear Wranglers are a very good all around tire, but I priced them at $136 a piece, locally, though you can find them cheaper, I'm sure.

Glad you're appreciating our help, here at FTE.

-Kerry

 

This is just me but I'd make sure they are steel rims if you go off road alot. Not much of a choice, black, chome, etc. I've seen to many trucks with fancy thousand dollar rims that the first big hole they hit or bump the curb they are toast.

If it's a street truck only then your wallet may have a saying. Just be on the lookout and when you see another truck that you like even another make ask the owner about their wheels. I do that alot.

I just saw a F250 4x4 with a 6" lift kit and some aftermarket mag wheels with low profile tire's ??? I don't think I'd want to be with him out in the middle of West Texas doing some serious off roading.

 

I only have the stock rims, and I am presuming they are steel? I don't want to change them, firstly due to the fact there is not much of a selection for seven luggers, and secondly the wheels I have look great (or so I think anyway!) I am needing to change my tires in a couple of months by the look of it, I may go with the E rated tires Does this mean it is safer to haul weight? or is it purely for looks? does an E rated tire last any longer than a D rated one?), as the D rated wranglers I have tend to look like they are underinflated (bulge out a bit at the sides!) and I keep checking them! I have them inflated to the 45 P.S.I. (front) and 60 P.S.I. (rear) as stated on the inside of the fuel filler door.
Thank you for all the assistance again!
Rik

 

Rik,

The stock rims are steel... and yes, there is a very limited selection of alternatives.

An 'E' rating is designed to carry more weight than the 'D' rated tire, but that doesn't increase the overall capability of the truck or "safeness" of it. Engineers determine that with lawyers' help. The 'E' rated tires accomplish the higher load ratings by having a stiffer sidewall. A stiffer sidewall means less forgiveness when you take a jarring bump. I didn't purchase 'E's with a purpose, it was because that was all the tire company had at the time. The bulge is a design characteristic of radial tires. If you look, they all bulge to some degree so the tread contacts the road evenly, when properly inflated. Even the 'E' rated tires on my truck do this.

The 45 and 60psi tire pressure ratings are a design aspect, it is meant more for the max load. If you look closely at the tire, it may give a different max psi. I do not recommend going with the tire's posted pressure... the ride may get rougher and your steering control in inclement weather will change. When you do load the 7700 up, and this seems true of all Ford trucks I've driven, the truck rides smoother.

-Kerry

 

BIG lift + BIG wheels + low profile tires = a LOT of show without any
smarts. Custom made for driving to work in a light snow and top-heavy to boot.
Look at what serious rock-crawlers use. - Steel rims can be reasonably straightened on the trail / fancy alum rims $$$$ get trashed. A good lift will provide FLEX when the trail gets goofy. Some of the loggers in the Northwest put on wider wheels and tread but keep the center of gravity low - and they haul a lot of weight ( tools and fuel ) for heavier equipment on steep and off-camber trails. AND they don't have highway tread. Some of those trucks can be heard quite a way down the road. < an audio speedometer of sorts]