More radiator questions/problems
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More radiator questions/problems
I'm waiting for the 203 t/stat, so I decided to put the old one back in and do good flush out. Three times I installed, uninstalled and reinstalled the t/stat and housing before it was finally leak proof. What a pain!
Next problem: the t/stat doesn't appear to be opening. The top hose is not pressurized and the top can be screwed off of the fill bottle without hearing any air. I drove it for about 3 hours (per instructions on the SuperFlush bottle), the idiot gauge climbed slowly to just below the middle position and stayed there. That's where the gauge always pointed so I don't know for sure if the t/stat ever opened. Any suggestions and what I should do at this point?
Next problem: the t/stat doesn't appear to be opening. The top hose is not pressurized and the top can be screwed off of the fill bottle without hearing any air. I drove it for about 3 hours (per instructions on the SuperFlush bottle), the idiot gauge climbed slowly to just below the middle position and stayed there. That's where the gauge always pointed so I don't know for sure if the t/stat ever opened. Any suggestions and what I should do at this point?
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Hi PS, thanks for the quick reply. No, I'm not sure it's installed correctly. I posted previously about that. An article that I read on another site stated that the arrow on the t/stat should point to the rear bolt on the housing. My t/stat had the arrow pointing to the front and the brass air bypass at the rear. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. Regardless, I put it back the same way. Can you shed some light on this direction problem?
Cuda, the t/stat is not stuck open. I had it out and examined it; it's fully closed. Even if it is open, after about 3 hours of driving, shouldn't the fill bottle and top hose develop pressure?
Cuda, the t/stat is not stuck open. I had it out and examined it; it's fully closed. Even if it is open, after about 3 hours of driving, shouldn't the fill bottle and top hose develop pressure?
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From: MICHIGAN
clev, you said idiot gauge climbed slowly. If this is true then the stat must be opening too soon and sticking open. A weak spring will cause this and when you remove it, it can be in the closed position appearing to be OK.
If the stat never opened you wouldn't have gotten very far. Major overheat!
No heat or not enough heat, no pressure in the system or you have a bad cap, won't pressurize.
If the stat never opened you wouldn't have gotten very far. Major overheat!
No heat or not enough heat, no pressure in the system or you have a bad cap, won't pressurize.
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Aug 7, 2006 at 08:06 PM.
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Thanks amiller; Bob @Dieselsite responded to my e-mail and he stated that if the t/stat is mounted horizontal, it doesn't matter which way anything points. If it's mounted vertically, the vent must be at the top or in the absence of a vent, the arrow must be pointed up. Mine is horizontal, so it doesn't matter. Thanks for your replies.
cuda, bob also responded to the issue of no pressure. He said that the w/pump had a big air bubble in it and I should remove the heater hose to the pump. I'm still waiting to see if I do that while it's cool or after it's warmed up. As far as 'stuck' open; wouldn't the system still build pressure? As it is, the gauge is reading normal, but the top rad. hose can be squeezed flat and the top taken off the bottle with no air or pressure escaping.
Thanks to both of you for taking the time.
Clev
cuda, bob also responded to the issue of no pressure. He said that the w/pump had a big air bubble in it and I should remove the heater hose to the pump. I'm still waiting to see if I do that while it's cool or after it's warmed up. As far as 'stuck' open; wouldn't the system still build pressure? As it is, the gauge is reading normal, but the top rad. hose can be squeezed flat and the top taken off the bottle with no air or pressure escaping.
Thanks to both of you for taking the time.
Clev
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