electrical demons
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electrical demons
hey guys i think i killed the old girl. i had to replace the negatve cable on my 85 f350. well the stud broke so i had to remove the inner fender to get to it. got everything back together or so i thought. i turned on the headlights and they came on. shut them off tried to start her. she fired then died nothing unusuall there she always does. went to restart her and a click then nothing, no lights no cranking just dead. its dark out and i missed what appears to be a resistor of some sort connected to the start selenoid. connected that but still nothing. any ideas what might be wrong???
thanks
tony
thanks
tony
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well today i went and looked at it since it was light out. the wire that i missed was some sort of resistor to the voltage regulator. i was thinking a fuse also but i cant seam to find any that are blown. looks like ill be spending my day chaseing wires with a meter to see if any of the wires shorted.
thanks for the help if anyone else has any ideas feel free to let me know
tony
thanks for the help if anyone else has any ideas feel free to let me know
tony
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
If you are getting nothing when you turn the key, you either have a bad connection in one of the cables or a blown fuse link. Locate the fuse links and pull on them gently. If they will stretch the wire inside is burned. Use the correct wire to repair them. If the fuse links are OK, clean all the cables, including the engine to chassis ground connections. If they are corroded inside, replace them.
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Usually just a click ...means there is something wrong the battery.
The can go anytime.
The can develp a short within themselves from sitting (sulfating)and just stop giving power.
The starter requires an enormous amount of power and a "looks good " but bad battery will just click when trying to crank a starter.
The starter SOLENOID/relay also can be great one second and bad another.
Try putting a multi-meter on it as well.
Are all the electrical thing working
The can go anytime.
The can develp a short within themselves from sitting (sulfating)and just stop giving power.
The starter requires an enormous amount of power and a "looks good " but bad battery will just click when trying to crank a starter.
The starter SOLENOID/relay also can be great one second and bad another.
Try putting a multi-meter on it as well.
Are all the electrical thing working
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From: kirksville mo
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all connections are good checked them. no shorted wires. and no im not getting any power to anything. i just replaced both batterie cables thats why i have this problem. i dont see it being the grounds bad cause the truck rolled over then when i tried it again is when i heard the pop sound. it sounded like a fuse but all of them look good.
bdox thanks for the info on the links i was wondering how to check them and was about to ask cause im sure thats what popped
thanks all
tony
bdox thanks for the info on the links i was wondering how to check them and was about to ask cause im sure thats what popped
thanks all
tony
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well im not sure exactly what it was but i unhooked the starter selinoid voltage regulator and batterie yesterday lookin for a shorted wire. this morning went out checked all fuses and links nothing bad. hooked everything up getin ready to check with a test light and noticed the dome light on. turned the key and she fired up. i think it was a bad connection on the power side of the starter seliniod but im not so. must have had a bad connection somewhere.
thanks for all your help guys
tony
thanks for all your help guys
tony
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
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From: Parkesburg PA
The symtoms you describe are classic bad ground issues. I've had it happen to a few fords I owned.
Main grounds run from the battery to the frame, then to the motor. The cab should also be gounded to the engine (and/or frame).
Factory ford neg batt cable's go from the neg terminal to the engine. There is also a "vampire" clamp that bolts to the frame. Many people think it's just a normal clamp and the replacements don't have it, so you loose your frame ground. I just took a short gound wire with terminals on both ends and bolted it to the engine and the frame.
Bad grounds are tough little buggers because they don't always show up, so you can replace a part and the truck seems like it's fixed, but it will go again.
Good luck,
David
Main grounds run from the battery to the frame, then to the motor. The cab should also be gounded to the engine (and/or frame).
Factory ford neg batt cable's go from the neg terminal to the engine. There is also a "vampire" clamp that bolts to the frame. Many people think it's just a normal clamp and the replacements don't have it, so you loose your frame ground. I just took a short gound wire with terminals on both ends and bolted it to the engine and the frame.
Bad grounds are tough little buggers because they don't always show up, so you can replace a part and the truck seems like it's fixed, but it will go again.
Good luck,
David
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