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Hoopdie! Be sure it is a worn gear causing the problem and then core it at NAPA for about 130 bucks or so. Is the steering link and tie rod ends in good shape? How about rag joint, King pins, shocks, I Beam and radius arm bushings? Is the column tight, good bearings top and bottom? Sometimes something as simple as a soft tire or loose wheel bearing will cause steering anomalies! And dont overlook a alignment/toe adjustment. I say this because that gear is expensive and you don't want to waste your money.
William in Atlanta
Have someone slowly turn the wheel both directions(free play) while you look at each joint on the front end(truck not running of course). The joint that bolts to the steering arm is usually the first to go bad. Then each tie rod end. There should be no movement up and down or side to side on any joint. Also measure both front and back tread width of front tires. If there is much toe out, it will wander all over the place. There is a large allowance of toe in/out that falls within the alignment specs. I usually run as close to zero unless there is a shimmy. Then toe out as little as it takes to eliiminate it. The bigger the tires. worse the problem on older trucks that dont have new solid parts. Especially straight front axles. Hope this helps.
The front end has been rebuilt with 3" drop I-Beams, '76 spindles and disc brakes, new king pins, new tie rods, new radius arm bushings and even new "Wheel Vintiques" gennies. The only short coming was the 1967 steering box straight from the salvage yard. Once I was satisfied that all the retro fitting worked I knew that a rebuild was going to be required for the steering box. I never would have guessed that NAPA would have that. Just swap out the box for a rebuilt one?
Yup! NAPA Has that gear. I have a question, how does the tie rod/steering link clear a 3" dropped I Beam? Does this setup use an altered radius arm?
William in Atlanta