65,000 miles on it.
1999 exp 4.6 engine driving conditions stop and go ( New York). Change oil every 2000 - 3000 miles.

I have been using 5w 30. I feel like I want to go Full synthetic.

Now if I don't go full synthetic would you consider 65,000 miles a good candidate for 5w 30 high milage oil?

What the heck is 5w 30 high mileage oil anyway? Is it thicker if it is how can it be 5w 30 still. You now what I mean....
Thanks

 

What makes u think syn is going to help?Not to sound to brusque here.

Nut

 

Well I thought it would extend the life of the engine ( keep temp down).

 

Most folks would think that any Xw-30 oil would be the same thickness at temp. They would be wrong. While the marketing nomenclature for the oil is Xw-30, the oil is actually listed by various other classifications in the industry. The SAE grade is a 30 which means that the ACTUAL viscosity can be 9.30 to 12.49 cST whereas using the ISO grade would be 100 and the ACTUAL viscosity is 90.0 to 110. The point here is that there is "room" inside the viscosity range for a difference in thickness. The high mileage oils will be on the "thicker" end of the respective viscosity range whereas the Energy Conserving oils will be on the "thin" side of the range. The high mileage oils will usually use a seal swell agent of some kind to tighten up the seals for minor leaks. Unless your Triton is using oil or leaking oil, there is no reason to use a high mileage oil. If you intend to stay with your short oil change intervals, synthetics of any kind are a waste of money. The only advantage of a synthetic anymore is for extended oil changes. They are not "slicker" as they have no more lubricity than a regular oil. The regular dino oils will stand almost as much heat and generally when an engine gets hot enough that it would fry a regular dino oil, the engine is toast anyway. Personally, whatever got you to the 65,000 apparent trouble free miles is what I would stay with. Stay with the recommended viscosity for your engine, use the recommended API grade and enjoy the ride. Ford designed and built the engine, they made the recommendations, they should know what is best for your engine.

 

Running bypass oil filtration will help extend the life of your motor by

simply keeping it real clean and offering a little extra oil cooling to boot.

Nut

 

Another option is to add an oil cooler : LINK which will help

reduce oil oxidation. The only advantage a syn has over dino is wider viscosity

index and greater thermal conductivity.

Nut

 

Neither i'd run 5w20 in a brand you prefer. Unless your going to extend your oci's synthetic's wouldn't be justified in cost and longevity.

 

Not the case with Amsoil bypass, check out this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=513928

 

Hi Bob,
Yeah...i was reading that thread awhile back. They need to work on that product. I'm a Motorguard man myself. You?
Nut

 

I stay with the OEM filters on ALL my vehicles, Volvo on Volvo, Motorcraft on Ford, and Mercedes (Mann) on my Mercedes'

 

Do u do bypass filtration?

 

No, ...sorry I should have been clearer on my answer to you!

 

What I didn't see is how many miles 420 Dude racks up a month. If you are doing stop and go, probably you don't rack up a lot of miles. The best benefit of synthetic for your area is to extend the oil change interval (OCI). Is your stop and go short trips or long trips? Trips of 20+ miles will fully warm up the oil and then you could extend your OCI. Short trips like 5 miles and you should change every 3 months with conventional oil. High mileage oil is fine for you and some are thicker, but some only offer the seal conditioners and/or higher detergents. Maxlife would be fine. If you want to go synthetic, try Maxlife Synthetic.

 

I posted on a different thread on my experience with 5w20 and 5w30 in my 5.4l when it comes to temp ranges, keep in mind that I installed a water temp gauge in my truck, and in all conditions hot or cold outside the 20 weight ran between 5-10 degrees cooler than the thicker stuff. Simply put I feel better about having the 20w in my engine over any other stuff.

 

-------------------------
I could not agree with you more. However, you would be surprised that in a modern, computer controlled, FI, emission certified car or light truck (gasoline power) there are many still, who think "thicker oil is better", "Thicker oil for summer"... thinking, which is actually quite dated in today's era.
Then some want to add thick, oil stabilizers, STP-like additives.
I'm glad there are others, like you, that understand what modern lubricants are built to do. Ed