I am going to look and possibly buy a 69 F100 shortbed tomorrow and was wondering if anyone had the VIN codes so I can determine whether the engine/tranny are original - he says 360 2V/C6 - and the rear axle gear ratio. I do plan on swapping in a 460/C6 later, but I'll be using the stock engine for a while due to finances. Also, what should I look for? i.e. typical problem areas with these trucks. He said the only real option it has is pb, but that it does have 4 wheel drum. I plan on swapping to front disc later - any advice on this now? Thanks a bunch.

Neal

 

Best thing to do with those eng/trans/rear end codes is to get them right from the tag on the drivers door and post them here. I'm sure one of the fine gentlemen here on the list can be of assistance. As far as problem areas, like rust etc, that would depend on what part of the nation you're in. Cab corners and front mounts will always bear close inspection anywhere north of the Mason-Dixon line. There is an excellent article on disc brake swaps in the tech section of this website. Good luck.

 

I agree with MK. The problem with codes are that they are no guarantee that this truck will have the original parts anyway. Take the motor for instance; it may decode to a 360, but may well be a 352, 390, 410 or 428. Not to knock the "360", but if you have any of the others in there your still doin' quite well (especially if it turned out to be a 410 or 428). Rear axle code may say it's a 3.25 traction loc, but someone changed gears etc., etc. etc. (you get the idea).

I recommend a thorough inspection of ever truck. In this day and age of mobility, trucks are being transplanted all over. Generally, the DSO code should agree with the Assembly plant and the historical data the owner tells you; that is if the truck was built in the Ontario Canada assembly, you wouldn't expect the truck to have been ordered through the Phoenix DSO and sold in Hoboken, NJ. Stranger things have happened, but I've never seen it.

I recommend a thorough inspection simply because a lot can happen in 30 years to a truck. Mix-matched parts, bad body work, hidden rot. I like to ckeck the following areas: cab corners, cab mounts (front and rear) frame, radiator support, inner fender wells (look underneath where they meet the firewall), underneath floor mats, above the windshield (inside and out), under the bed, the cavity between the bedside and the outer rear quarters, under the doors. Plan on spending an hour and remember: good body work will hide a lot of trouble, so go slow and look carefully.


<FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE=" 2" FACE="Bassett">Stock Man</FONT>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside</font>
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As far as disk brakes are concerned once you have this gem in your hot little hands start keeping your eyes open for a '73-'79 parts truck to buy. Pull the entire front axle(s) off of it along with the proportioning valve, master cylinder (for your core charge), booster etc. and simply swap it over. It's a bolt in and takes about 3-4 hours not counting bleeding brakes.

Trail Rider