replacing rear brake pads

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Jul 6, 2006 | 10:21 AM

start'nout

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replacing rear brake pads

a'ite, i'll admitt i'm not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to mechanics...but i just bought a 97 explorer for a fair price or so i thought...when the lady took me for a test drive she was driving all slow and i thought it was just cuz she was old, but as soon as she left it at my apartment and i took it to work i heard the brake pads scratching into the disc, i got off and i noticed that the pads where already to the metal plaque....
but what i'm trying to say is i need help, cuz i wasted all the money on the truck i had left, and i just paid for this two next semisters at school and bills are coming in, and the mechanic at the garage was telling me it's gonna cost me 150 to replace the pads....i know that can't be true, pads cost like what 10 bucks so could someone really help me out with the procedure and items i'm gonna have to use i really need to get this done, and the disc hasn't been scored much, so i can still just replace the brakes...please help, i need to get this done as soon as possible

Jul 6, 2006 | 11:05 AM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

With what your against in money and stating light marks on the disc I would sand the disc and install new pads. They will wear in to any small grooves as long as you sanded first. Work hard with the books. It's a easy job to change pads, do it yourself and save on the labor. Welcome to the forum.

.....=o&o>.....

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jul 6, 2006 at 11:12 AM.

Jul 6, 2006 | 11:44 AM

rebocardo

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From: Atlanta GA

> know that can't be true, pads cost like what 10 bucks

First off, never sand or lightly buff a disc brake rotor, especially a grooved one. Doing so will just cause more brake problems. Clean with brake cleaner and let them go. Just change the pads and let them be eaten by the grooved rotors. Do not do hard stops while they are wearing in. As long as the grooves are not beyond 1/16 in the rear it will be "driveable" since the rear discs do little work.

$150 to change pads AND turn rotors was a reasonable price and worth it.

rear pads $30 (just looked it up at Advance Auto because I knew it wasn't $10)

various tools you will need (ratchet, disc brake tools, etc.) =$20-$30.

jack stands = $20

I still recommend doing it yourself, just do not fool yourself into thinking it is going to be a quick and easy $20 brake job with slapping pads on.

Jul 6, 2006 | 11:51 AM

andym

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From: Bonita Springs FL

$150 is indeed a fair price to change brake pads. $10 at advance auto will get you absolute garbage pads that no honest mechanic would even let into his shop. A good set of pads will run you about $40 for that truck. Plus you'll need a caliper compressor because they're ratcheting calipers and you can't compress them with normal caliper compressors or a c-clamp. You can compress them without the tool, but it's an enormous pain. Then when you add in the cost of the rest of the tools, the lift, the air compressor to run the air tools, the rent for the shop, etc. $150 starts to sound about right. Also keep in mind that the man has a family to feed, a mortgage to pay, and his own car to pay for and maintain - you want him to work for free for you?

My advice, much like rebocardo's, is if you can't afford the brake job and have a reasonable set of hand tools is to just do a pad slap - slap new pads on and call it good - and do it right when you have the money.

Jul 6, 2006 | 12:10 PM

start'nout

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not that i don't appreciate the replys and all...and seeing that i'm low on money, i would rather just do it myself, i just really need to know what i really need to do, the full procedure...i just need to slap the pads on and well since the ones that are already on are just the metal plate i think it would be a lot easier if i just replace them on my own, and when i get a lil bit more flexible with cash i could just get them done by someone who actually know what they are doing...

so if y'all could just tell me, not step by step but somewhat of a procedure to follow...

Jul 6, 2006 | 12:16 PM

andym

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From: Bonita Springs FL

Jack the vehicle up, remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper, compress the caliper, replace the pads, put it back together, repeat for the other side.

I would really consider picking up a Haynes manual for your truck. It will show you step by step how to do this repair, along with many others.

Jul 6, 2006 | 12:45 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

For years I have used a electric palm sander with 150 grit and sanded disc surfaces for a clean start without any problems when replacing pads.
It's a truck not a Formula One racr car.
.....=o&o>.....

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Jul 6, 2006 | 01:30 PM

pronstar

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rebocardo

First off, never sand or lightly buff a disc brake rotor, especially a grooved one.

Many aftermarket rotor MFRs specifically recommend lightly sanding the rotor surface to remove the old-pad transfer layer. I had some APs and StopTech, was specifically noted to do this when replacing pads. (I should note that they also specifically noted to NOT turn the rotors unless excessive run-out was measured).

But I agree with you that this is not the way to go about fixing a damaged rotor. Best to put a new rotor on there, you can get good blanks for about $30 each if you shop around.

Rotors and pads can be had for less than $100, as noted by others save the dough and do it yourself, it isn't that tough. Plus you'll continue to save in the future, as you'll be able to do this for every car you own.

Brake shops sometimes charge ridiculous prices, and scare you into paying these prices.

Make sure you bed the brakes whenever you replace the pads, here's a little info on how to do it:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

Good luck!