I swapped the auto hubs on my 87 over to manual warn hubs, put on new rotors and brake pads. when I spin the wheel when on the jack, it spins about 2 rotations then comes to a stop, is that normal brake drag for disk brakes?. after a 15 minute trip I put my hand on the hub, but could only hold it there for about 6 seconds before it felt to hot. just wondering how hot those hub should get, should you beable to hold your hand on it? I was a little worried I tightened the wheel bearings to much. I torqued them to about 45ft lbs, but had to tighten them slightly more to line up the pin on the bearing nut with a hole in that washer before putting on the lock nut. can someone set me straight on this? thanks Randy

 

Hey Randy,
I'm sure you did all of this, but to safe I'll ask. When you replaced the hubs, did you clean the wheel bearings and repack with high temp grease? The same with the manual hubs? A good coating inside the hub housing?
After a while, the brake pads will wear down and some of the friction heat generated should dissipate. I put the disk brake anti-squeal on mine, as this reduces friction a bit.
Haynes manual states that 50 ft. lbs is the correct amount of torque for the bearing nut, then back off apx. 45 degrees to seat the pin and tighten the outer nut to 50 ft. lbs.


Dave S

 

I did everything you said, maybe your right the brakes might just be alittle tight. man the specs sure vary for torquing that outer lock nut, your saying 50ftlbs, the spec I got was 140ftlbs, and I even seen it written from160-208. I went 130ftlbs I was scared to tighten it more than that. I remember once on my 77 I didn't tighten that outer locknut enough and they both backed off, it wasn't pretty. Yeh I was just curious how warm those hubs should get.

 

The hubs do get hot depending on how hot your brakes get because they are attached to the rotor. If you lock the brakes and the temp. on the rotor jumps to 800+ degrees, your hubs will be hot enough to cook eggs,.