Pics of the IMRC acuators
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hi, picking up both threads-i have searched the chilton manual and there is not a picture to help you but checking the vacuum diagram. the pipe color is not black it is infact blue.this can be seen (on my engine) on the left hand side of the manifold below the primary battery fuse box, towards the back. it can be pulled off. the pipe (blue) shares its rubber boot with another pipe. the way i checked to see if i could open the manifold flaps (rails) was to put a plastic drinking straw into the rubber boot leading to the blue pipe and suck.
on doing this i could hear the flaps snap shut when i stopped sucking( all this without the engine running).
if you can hear them moving then there is a problem with no vacuum.
if they do not move then it will be a big stripdown, lower manifold off to get to them.
again i hope this helps. bokker.
on doing this i could hear the flaps snap shut when i stopped sucking( all this without the engine running).
if you can hear them moving then there is a problem with no vacuum.
if they do not move then it will be a big stripdown, lower manifold off to get to them.
again i hope this helps. bokker.
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BOF,
I can't say for sure but it seems like I have a vauge recollection of somebody's IMRC being physically stuck. Maybe due to deposit build up over time. Have you tried running some Seafoam thru the intake to see if that might free them up?
FWIW, I'd use the vacuum port just in front of the throttle body rather than the brake boost vacuum line.
So I guess it's safe to assume you don't have a vacuum problem since -as I understand it- the electrical solenoid applies vacuum above 2500/3000 rpm to open the IMRC butterflies. So, since the code is indicating stuck open, then loss of vacuum should not be the problem (as bokker mentions).
Here's a thought....
What if the electrical solenoid is bad and causing the IMRC to open all the time. Can you pinch off (or leave disconnected) the vacuum line going to the IMRC control. If the solenoid is bad, the valves will stay closed.
With the engine idling you could release the pinched off line (or reattach it, whichever way you do it) to see if the IMRC valves open.
Does this make any sense, what I'm trying to explain?
maybe the valves are not stuck open. Maybe they are being told to open when they should not be.
Of course all this is just another way to verify what you think you have already determine using the soda straw. But, in this case, I think a backup verification would be nice.
Remember Travlnman (Thomas) who used to hang out here? He sold his truck to buy a Ranger (mpg issue). Let me see if I can get in touch with him. He did all the work himself replacing intake manifold gaskets so he'll have first-hands-on experience.
Maybe he can help out here.
I'll try and call him and ask for his help.
Let's stay on this one. I'd like to help you and find out what the problem is.
OBTW, Thanks much bokker. Your input is always appreciated!
I can't say for sure but it seems like I have a vauge recollection of somebody's IMRC being physically stuck. Maybe due to deposit build up over time. Have you tried running some Seafoam thru the intake to see if that might free them up?
FWIW, I'd use the vacuum port just in front of the throttle body rather than the brake boost vacuum line.
So I guess it's safe to assume you don't have a vacuum problem since -as I understand it- the electrical solenoid applies vacuum above 2500/3000 rpm to open the IMRC butterflies. So, since the code is indicating stuck open, then loss of vacuum should not be the problem (as bokker mentions).
Here's a thought....
What if the electrical solenoid is bad and causing the IMRC to open all the time. Can you pinch off (or leave disconnected) the vacuum line going to the IMRC control. If the solenoid is bad, the valves will stay closed.
With the engine idling you could release the pinched off line (or reattach it, whichever way you do it) to see if the IMRC valves open.
Does this make any sense, what I'm trying to explain?
maybe the valves are not stuck open. Maybe they are being told to open when they should not be.
Of course all this is just another way to verify what you think you have already determine using the soda straw. But, in this case, I think a backup verification would be nice.
Remember Travlnman (Thomas) who used to hang out here? He sold his truck to buy a Ranger (mpg issue). Let me see if I can get in touch with him. He did all the work himself replacing intake manifold gaskets so he'll have first-hands-on experience.
Maybe he can help out here.
I'll try and call him and ask for his help.
Let's stay on this one. I'd like to help you and find out what the problem is.
OBTW, Thanks much bokker. Your input is always appreciated!
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blueovalfitter, i have just re read your answer about do you think they are bad. it has to be yes but as brian points out there is an electric solonoid that gives the signal that may also have gone bad.
it will be interesting to find out how the dealer cures your problem.
given time the only way i would progress is to take off the upper intake manifold and physically try to open the flaps. please keep us informed. bokker.
it will be interesting to find out how the dealer cures your problem.
given time the only way i would progress is to take off the upper intake manifold and physically try to open the flaps. please keep us informed. bokker.
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It's going to the dealer at 7:00 am in the morning.Here's a breakdown on parts and labor,if the IMRCs have to be replaced;
IMRCs X2= $156.00 each
Upper intake gasket= $13.50
IMRC bushings X2=$4.50 each
Shop fees= $25.00
Labor- if charged fleet rate 3 hours @ $75.00 an hour
Labor- if charged flat rate 3 hours @ $90.00 an hour
Diagnostics test - $90.00
Florida tax- $.07 on the dollar
I had to sell a Ruger Mini-14 rifle to pay this.My savings and checking accounts were wiped out 2 weeks ago for attorney fees for a legal matter in the family.
IMRCs X2= $156.00 each
Upper intake gasket= $13.50
IMRC bushings X2=$4.50 each
Shop fees= $25.00
Labor- if charged fleet rate 3 hours @ $75.00 an hour
Labor- if charged flat rate 3 hours @ $90.00 an hour
Diagnostics test - $90.00
Florida tax- $.07 on the dollar
I had to sell a Ruger Mini-14 rifle to pay this.My savings and checking accounts were wiped out 2 weeks ago for attorney fees for a legal matter in the family.
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