1/4 Mile Race... 6.0 vs. 7.3
#46
Originally Posted by Kentucky Skipper
I do have some drag racing experience, although all of it on 1/8th miles. The fact is, a 6.0 does not have the torque to get up and go with a 7.3. With the 6.0's notorious lag from the time you spur it's but till the time it takes off, I can tell you, a 7.3 truck will murder it on the light. In an eighth mile, the 6.0 would not have a chance.
As for the launch, Customz is right on. I don't know any diesel draggers that don't powerbrake on the launch. My 6.0 leaves most in the dust on the launch.
#47
Originally Posted by Kentucky Skipper
I don't know for what reason, but you can spool a 6.0 up to 2500 RPM's, drop the clutch in first gear, and it takes off just like it would if you'd barely tapped the throttle before letting the clutch out.
Of course they say mine is running properly.
Skipper
Of course they say mine is running properly.
Skipper
it prolly is running right. your not gonna build any boost off the line with a stick. that is your problem. the stick also looses boost between shifts.
so it looks like you really wanted an auto for drag racing purposes.
#48
#49
Remember that a 7.3 has more displacement than a 6.0.... right off the line, the 7.3 will have the advantage. Once the turbo spools up on the 6.0, though, it's off and wooping the 7.3. Again, this is assuming stock to stock.
As for the actual race for money, find out what the deal is with the "black box" (LOL!) on the 7.3 before you race it with a stock 6.0. In fact, you need to know what mods it has, because if the 6.0 you're using is stock, and the 7.3 is modded, it will be very different results. Could the 7.3 owner be hiding what he has? Maybe he has a hot chip, injectors, turbo, etc.... in which case the stock 6.0 will get spanked. If he only has an out-of-the-box tuner, it will be a close run...
Better find out ahead of time before betting $500 against a truck with unknown mods. If the 7.3 only has a tuner or chip, then adding a tuner or chip to the 6.0 should assure victory.
As for the actual race for money, find out what the deal is with the "black box" (LOL!) on the 7.3 before you race it with a stock 6.0. In fact, you need to know what mods it has, because if the 6.0 you're using is stock, and the 7.3 is modded, it will be very different results. Could the 7.3 owner be hiding what he has? Maybe he has a hot chip, injectors, turbo, etc.... in which case the stock 6.0 will get spanked. If he only has an out-of-the-box tuner, it will be a close run...
Better find out ahead of time before betting $500 against a truck with unknown mods. If the 7.3 only has a tuner or chip, then adding a tuner or chip to the 6.0 should assure victory.
#50
Y'all were the ones wanting to drag race trucks not me. I just want mine to pull out into traffic without getting me ran over or for that matter, to run right. Honestly, one of the primary reasons I quit drag racing was because of trucks at the strip. Being one of the faster cars in the bracket, it got tough not to break out when you were watching the guy in the other lane leave 4, 5 and 6 seconds before you got a light. The street bracket was 10 and slower and I could turn a 9-6 but kept it above 10 to keep from paying an extra $180 in entry fees. The other Mustangs and Camaros and miscelaneous muscle cars were all doing about the same. Most of us set our times at 10-1 or so and from there, it was pretty much a straight up race. When the trucks started coming, most of the guys I raced with either did what I did and quit or came up with cars capable of competing in pro street. Pro Street went down to the 7's, and a streetable car didn't have a snowball's chance against people with highly modified trannys and torque converters.
Skipper
Skipper
#52
Originally Posted by Kentucky Skipper
Y'all were the ones wanting to drag race trucks not me. I just want mine to pull out into traffic without getting me ran over or for that matter, to run right. Honestly, one of the primary reasons I quit drag racing was because of trucks at the strip. Being one of the faster cars in the bracket, it got tough not to break out when you were watching the guy in the other lane leave 4, 5 and 6 seconds before you got a light. The street bracket was 10 and slower and I could turn a 9-6 but kept it above 10 to keep from paying an extra $180 in entry fees. The other Mustangs and Camaros and miscelaneous muscle cars were all doing about the same. Most of us set our times at 10-1 or so and from there, it was pretty much a straight up race. When the trucks started coming, most of the guys I raced with either did what I did and quit or came up with cars capable of competing in pro street. Pro Street went down to the 7's, and a streetable car didn't have a snowball's chance against people with highly modified trannys and torque converters.
Skipper
Skipper
#53
Originally Posted by mikedeason
What's a "Black Box" generally mean?
I think in this case, the guy's referring to a chip or tuner.
#54
Better find out ahead of time before betting $500 against a truck with unknown mods. If the 7.3 only has a tuner or chip, then adding a tuner or chip to the 6.0 should assure victory.
You can take the computer out in about 2 minutes to see if it is chipped, it is VERY visable. Put a scanner or tuner onto the truck, especially an SCMT, it will give an error if it is not stock. The odds of him having funky injectors or turbo are VERY slim if he has not tuned it.
You can take the computer out in about 2 minutes to see if it is chipped, it is VERY visable. Put a scanner or tuner onto the truck, especially an SCMT, it will give an error if it is not stock. The odds of him having funky injectors or turbo are VERY slim if he has not tuned it.
#55
#56
#59
Originally Posted by mikedeason
What's a "Black Box" generally mean?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...02544851QQrdZ1