hi guys,i just bought a 2002 harley supercharger with all electrical,cops,injectors,intake,intercooler,..... the complete top end.i was wondering what else i need to install this on my 2000 5.4 f250 superduty.i know i need a tune,fuel pump...etc. what else?and will a lightning duel fuel pump drop into my tank or is there an after market 255lph for a superduty?
thanks in advance guys!!!!!
steve

 

Surly someone has done this....I'm interested in the same upgrade for my '04 Expedition.

 

i have a 2006 f250 5.4....what kind of gains are you expecting and if i were to go this route what would i expect...

 

The '04 Expy should fall under the care of this guy , go to F150 page for a listing of the parts required and a price... the Expy in '04 used the 2v engine, but had a different front end, so some fab may be required to get a factory looking fit.

As far as the 2000 SuperDuty, it may be a similar situation as far as the engine component bolt up vs body component - the engine components will bolt straight up, but anything bolting to the body will have to be a custom fab. I am unsure of the pump, as the SuperDuty tank is a lot bigger than an F150s.

The 2006 engine design in the SuperDuty is different enough that a H-D or Lightning supercharger intake will not bolt up - and that may not be the only thing. I am unsure if the any of the 2004-2006 F150 supercharger kits from the aftermarket will bolt straight up.... but again you'll run into the fact that the truck is a SuperDuty and the kits were made for the F150s.

Kit hp and torque gains tend to be around 50% over the stock engine numbers.

-Kerry

 

Thanks Kerry, very much appreciated.

 

the easiest way to 'fangle' in a supercharger on any of the 5.4L is to use a centrifugal blower like the paxton/votech and all the other ones that look like a big turbocharger with a pulley on the front. Even if there isn't a kit for this particular engine, installing it is a matter of making bracketry and acquiring some air hoses.

Though personally, I think a 5.4L with a whipple/roots sticking through the hood would be super cool, but that's just me.

 

That has crossed my mind too. I can't afford the price tag for a kit that is made for my truck ($5k). But I've seen several new kits on ebay that are for mustangs going for $1800.

 

Michael101,
Are you speaking of the centrifugal kits? The bracketry may be the most difficult to fab on those. The intake on the mustang 4.6s is on the passenger side of the engine. Yours should be on the driver's. It isn't going to be just a flip. They do sell 5.4 centrifugal kits for the '03 F150s for under $2500 or cheaper if used - should be pretty much a straight bolt up except the engine calibration.

-Kerry

 

I mentioned the mustang kits as a 'for instance'. You are right, the brackets should be the main diff. along with injectors and tuning.

 

Injectors are part of the tune - the fit up is a non-issue. Your fuel system (pump or booster & regulator) could be different, though.

-Kerry

 

To sum it up, if I bought an older model kit;

1. Main mounting bracket would possibly have to be modified/drilled/etc. to match my engine.

2. Injectors may be different, easy enough to change if this is so.

3. Custom tune would be necessary, should be available.

4. Posssibly change my stock fuel pump, would have to do this anyway.

5. Some customizing of duct work, easy.

Does that sound about right?

 

I can't think of much else at this point. Look at the list that MAD Enterprizes has to see what other major components you could have issues with. While he's speaking of the twin-screw type.... the general idea for the rest of the parts (except maybe the intercooler set-up and manifold) is the same between the two designs.

-Kerry

 

Many years ago I bought (new) a 1993 Lincoln Continental. It's a 3.8L, FWD V6 car. It's basically a fat, slightly longer Taurus with tons of electronic dohickeys.

After a year, I and several friends tore the engine down to the block and worked through everything, adding and adjusting various things, and balancing and blueprinting everything. Reassembled, and installed a paxton supercharger I bought off a friend who had this thing installed in his 5.0L mustang which he had wrecked.

After some experimental "it looks right" fabrication of the bracket out of 3/8" mild steel, I had a working bracket putting the paxton at the bottom of the the engine, almost in the suspension. Notched and boxed that shock tower to make room for the paxton, pulley, and belt.

Plumbed up and around the engine underneath and up to the throttle body on the driver's side of the engine (FWD Fords have the belts on the passenger side).

Custom aluminum ductwork (tubing) for most of that run, with silicon hoses on each end to allow some flexing of bits as the engine stretched it mounts when the throttle was blipped.

If I can fit a paxton blower into an overcrowed, overwired FWD car, you can fit the same style blower into your truck.

All you have to do is find a suitable place for it making sure you can line the pulley with the the other pulleys (and it needs to be "dead on", minimal play, runout, or angles here.... use a framing square across the pulley grooves) and room to run the ductwork from "where ever" to "over there" by the throttle body.

Keep it away from the exhaust if you can so that you're not heating the compressed air more than the compressor itself does.

Another thing that helps transitioning ductwork side to side is an intercooler. A blower on the pass side of the engine can feed the bottom of a powerstroke intercooler which has an inlet/outlet on that side, and the other inlet/outlet at the top on the driver's side, coincidentally near the throttle body ;-)

If you don't want to run an intercooler, run the ductwork through the radiator support, in front of the radiator, then back through the radiator support to the throttle body.

No one said you have to run the ductwork any particular way. You just want to reduce 90 degree bends if you can, or have large enough tubing where it doesn't matter.

Also keep in mind a supercharged engine with lots of funky bends in the tubing is by far better than naturally aspirated, so don't worry about it too much. Convienence to make it easy to fabricate is sometimes worth the minimal amount of restriction you'll get with oddball bending.

 

I would think that the stock fuel and ignition system would handle 6 lbs of boost or less. Any more than that and you'd better get more fuel.

 

You need more fuel anytime you're over stock. You can adjust on the fly with a mechanical, variable fuel pressure regulator that attaches a vacuum hose to the intake, so as boost increases so does the fuel pressure. If you exceed the flow/psi of either the regulator or the factory fuel pump, then you'll need to replace the pump with a paxton, walbro, or some other suitable fuel pump.

Or, use larger injectors and adjust the data tables in the EEC, which is another can of worms.