so VAN85 your saying my best bet is to call this oregon ignition place and do the same thing you got? This is a pretty good option cause it's fairly cheap and plus i live in oregon. Also on your holley 390cfm carb is it electric choke and if it is where did you hook up the positive wire to cause im still having problems i have no ideas what normal choke operation is. I start it up and it idles really high and the primary air thing stays closed and the choke never fully opens it up after it warms up and if i manually move it open then the next time i give it gas the choke closes it again.

 

Your carburator should have come with a procedure for setting the choke for your engine. If it is closing everytime you step on the gas peddle when it is hot, I would guess you have it set a little too rich or hard. Another thing is that maybe you do not have the wire hooked up off the right spot so that it receives power when the ignition is on. The electric choke heats up a coil spring and that coil spring will set the choke position as the engine warms up. A good spot to have it is off the alternator on a lug that only has power when the truck is running.

 

I have it hooked up to a wire where the stock choke was but the ground wire was in the wrong place so after changing that it opened a little bit but I think i need to tune it more like you said

 

So when i call the igniton supply place I tell them what? And I can just install all the stuff you said they will give me for $135 adjust the timing and im fine?

 

i just did the swap myself i, the owners of salvage yards around here are less than nice so i will say that you can get all of the iginition parts you need from local parts stores if you are willing to spend a little more money. i bought a duraspark ignition module (look for year models 79-83) and duraspark style vacuum advance distributor again 79-83 then i consulted my haynes manual on how to wire them up if you buy it from a salvage yard be sure to get all of the wires if you deside to wire it up like i did then the two prong connector that has red and white wires and goes into 3 wires on the other side are all hot wires it is easy to get the hot to the coil using one of these beyond that black with green stripe, purple, and orange wires go directly from the distributor to the module that goes on the fender the green wire on the module goes to the negative side of the coil you might also need a carb spacer just to get the throttle linkage to work easier, be carefull with cliford stuff i have heard that to run the intake you have to have their header or if you have header you need their intake

 

punctuation please.

 

I just did the swap myself. The owners of salvage yards around here are less than nice, so i will say that you can get all of the iginition parts you need from local parts stores. They cost a little more money though. I bought a duraspark ignition module (look for year models 79-83) and duraspark style vacuum advance distributor (again 79-83) for this swap. Then i consulted my haynes manual on how to wire them up. If you buy it from a salvage yard be sure to get all of the wires. If you deside to wire it up like i did then the two prong connector that has red and white wires and goes into 3 wires on the other side of the connector are all hot wires it is easy to get the hot to the coil using one of these. Beyond that black with green stripe, purple, and orange wires go directly from the distributor to the module that goes on the inner fender well. The green wire on the module goes to the negative side of the coil. You might also need a carb spacer just to get the throttle linkage to work easier. Be carefull with clifford stuff. I have heard that to run the intake you have to have their header or if you have header you need their intake. I have also heard that the efi exhaust manifolds work with the clifford intake. That might be a good way to go.



I hope this is easier to read srercrcr

 

BTW, please be warned that if you have the TFI system now, and wish to keep the TFI coil, you must put in a ballast resistor or wire to power the TFI coil if you go with the Duraspark II conversion. Otherwise you will burn up the Duraspark ignition module. (Ask me why I know this........)

 

I burned two autozone modules. Then I went to napa and got the cheaper of the two they offer. I have had no problems with it and it never feels half as warm as the autozone one did. Napa's other module is a huge beast. It costs somewhere in the vicinity of 80 dollars.

 

Well been a little while but i will give you an update. I couldn't pass up the deal of coil distributer and ignition box off a 81 ford for 50 bucks! in almost brand new condition Im gussing it is a duraspark 2 ignition. I hooked it up set the timing and it runs awesome!! Nest project putting on my clifford headers.... Any suggestions on exhaust systems?

 

my exhaust is two into one just after the tranny crossmember, 40 series flow, and then the stock pipe up over the axle, cut off so it points straight back and stops right after the tire. It sounds pretty good, almost like a v8 at low rpms. at high rpms it tends to sound more like a turbo rx7

 

Hey Nick, Glad to hear your truck is running awsome. Sorry about not posting back but it looks like you made out all right. Kind of forgot which title was yours. Not very descriptive. For your exhaust project Clifford makes a manifold gasket that works for me. 3k miles and no leaks. It's 13 bucks and is about 3/16" thick. I really like it . Maybe you got one with your Clifford headers. I did not have good luck with the stock style gasket when I had the stock manifolds on. Went thru two gaskets and they both leaked. Could just be me. Could have been the stock manifolds. Retight the screws after they get hot and recheck now and then. With the thicker gasket you can run longer screws. My horse sence tells me the more thread engagment the better chance the screw is going to stay inplace. There are many I6's out there with leaking exhaust. Just the nature of this long beast. You might have to use bigger washers to support both manifolds. My set up had a large span between flanges and I stacked two over size washers at two locations. EFI exhaust and Clifford intake. I don't see any problem with the Clifford intake. Have not seen a Offy but I was told the Offy would not fit in my van. Oh! I believe your electric choke takes 12v. Not all the wires you think would be 12v are. Some are 9v. Check with a meter with the motor running. VaROOOOOMMMMMmmmmmm And another thing!! With the EFI exhaust I had to change the alt. pivot bolt. Got a longer one and added a nut instead of the tapped hole in the bracket. Feed the bolt in from the opposite side of stock. You might not have this clearance problem with the Clifford exhaust so don't try to make sence out of this now, but future use.....