Cardan Joint
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
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From: Jacksonville
Cardan Joint
Is there anything special I need to know about that special joint at the top of the rear drive shaft? I need to replace those u'joints up there, and if there's somthing unique about the job I want to know before I disable my truck and get stuck halfway through it.
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Well, be extremely carefull with the new security pins of the ones you´ll mount, as you can take them out again once installed, and try not to be so harsh on the new joint, also watch if it has greasers or if it´s a sealed one (the ones with grasers need to be lubricated every now and then).
If you have any real emergency if the meantime of the repair, just dismount the Cardan, put the truck on 4WD and roll it that way (i don´t recomend doing this, but it would take you home if you where in a hurry).
If you have any real emergency if the meantime of the repair, just dismount the Cardan, put the truck on 4WD and roll it that way (i don´t recomend doing this, but it would take you home if you where in a hurry).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 1
From: St Louis
Strangely I had the same question about the same joint last week. Is there any specific steps to taking it apart. That is, the order to start in? Better yet is there any photographic step by step instructions available in print or the web?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 225
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From: Birmingham AL
Look under "Technical part 1" then "driveline" and look for "cardan".
I just found this site recently. Lots of good stuff.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5//
1988 EB Bronco - 302 - AOD - 3.55 Lim Slip 8.8- Manual Hubs and Transfer Case - BFG 32/11.5 AT - 209,000 miles
I just found this site recently. Lots of good stuff.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5//
1988 EB Bronco - 302 - AOD - 3.55 Lim Slip 8.8- Manual Hubs and Transfer Case - BFG 32/11.5 AT - 209,000 miles
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
yep. 12pt. 13MM and the centering ball and spring are the components that you need to take care to get in there properly.
Last edited by greystreak92; May 11, 2006 at 11:57 PM.
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Post Fiend
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From: Bonita Springs FL
I just did this, and there are a couple tips I wish I'd had. 
Be really careful when you install the u-joints. I replaced mine with spicer greasable ones from JBG, and once you press the u-joint in, you can't get them back out. Then I realized that I put it in the wrong way, and I wasn't going to be able to get to the fitting. When these dry out, it goes to a shop, because I won't be able to get them out.
When you buy the u-joints, buy the ball repair kit too. I bought mine from JBG as well, and they had it for $14. Napa wanted $40, and I had it torn apart when I realized I needed one. So the Bronco sat for a week because I wasn't paying Napa prices for cheap chinese junk.
So buy the ball repair kit, and be real careful about the orientation of the u-joints.
Be really careful when you install the u-joints. I replaced mine with spicer greasable ones from JBG, and once you press the u-joint in, you can't get them back out. Then I realized that I put it in the wrong way, and I wasn't going to be able to get to the fitting. When these dry out, it goes to a shop, because I won't be able to get them out.
When you buy the u-joints, buy the ball repair kit too. I bought mine from JBG as well, and they had it for $14. Napa wanted $40, and I had it torn apart when I realized I needed one. So the Bronco sat for a week because I wasn't paying Napa prices for cheap chinese junk.
So buy the ball repair kit, and be real careful about the orientation of the u-joints.