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Recommendation to stop bed rusting?!

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Old May 9, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Recommendation to stop bed rusting?!

I have a 1970 Ford F100, and the original bed is completely rusted (large holes in some spots). The previous owner attempted to create a new bed, with some steel (or so it looks), and the welds on the new bed are starting to rust. I was thinking about putting either a spray-in/on liner or a roll-on liner (from home depot). However, several people have told me not to waste my money on those do-it-yourself kits. And others swear by them. I want to fix the problem, but don't want to spend 2 grand on an entire new bed, paint, labor. Does anyone have any recommendations that I could possibly do? If pictures are neccesary, of the 'new bed', I can provide them.

I am also a little affraid that the original bed will rust all the way through, and the new bed will just fall through it. Therefore, making my truck useless.

Is my only real option, getting the OEM truck bed panels from a distributor and installing them? I guess if I go that route, I will be posting another thread, asking about that! :\

-Kornhaus
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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I used the spray in liner on my truck, worked out great, you can use it as a under coat also, that way it is sealed top and bottom.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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Several companies make rust converters - they are like paint. You spray or brush them on, they convert most of the rust to some hard metal, and, at the same time, cover to panel with a hard lacquer paint.

They all say that this stops rust, but it depends on how well you prep the surface. You would need to do both sides. Most want you to use a wire brush to remove any loose rust, but do not require you grind down to clean metal.

When you are done I would then use the bedliner.

I don't know which is the best product to use - you can do a google search and find several companies that make the same claims. One such company is www.rustbullet.com - but I can not say they are any better than any other company.

Rust requires moisture and air to grow - seal up the rust where it can not get any of those and it should stop. It does no good to do just one side, you have to do both.
 

Last edited by WillyB; May 9, 2006 at 06:18 PM.
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Old May 9, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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I used por 15 i was very impressed with the way it turned out. It goes on very easy. Just don't get any on your hands it takes weeks to come off.
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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I definitely recommend POR-15 as the bottom layer. I used it for years on steel ships/boats in saltwater and that stuff is the goods. It's far from cheap, but well worth the price because it works and lasts. One thing to remember if you do use it is that it's not meant to be exposed to UV and will breakdown over time if it's out. Use it as a primer then topcoat with another paint, spray-in liner, etc.

edit: It's also a great product to use inside body panels/doors if you ever decide to go that far. Keeps them from rotting from the inside-out.
 

Last edited by Vern69; May 10, 2006 at 12:12 PM.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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There is a product from ace hardware called Ospho. It works pretty good. You do have to work the rust down a little bit but not to clean metal. What im learning though is taking the rust down to cleanest possible metal first then useing any converter is the best bet.
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:13 PM
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Ospho, Home Depot's Jasco, and Navel Jelly use phosphoric acid as their active ingredient. They convert rust to a water soluble phosphate compound, which you can wash off.

The more expensive products use tannin as the active ingredient. Tannin converts rust to a very hard dark blue or black substance called magnetite. This is supposed to be better - but at a much higher cost.

I have not found anything using tannin that is reasonably priced. I used a product called "Rust Doctor" which looked like it worked, but who knows? I found it at a car show and ordered it off the internet.
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:42 AM
  #8  
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Thread moved, let's see what the experts say in the Paint and Bodywork forum.
 
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