I just bought a bunch of tools and in that basket, I also threw in a 1/2" impact ratchet and a 3/8" impact as well. Well, I went to go do a brake job yesterday with my new tools on a 2004 E-350 econoline and my little compressor (max psi 80) just could not unbolt the tires, caliper bolts, and many other things. What brand do you guys recommend? And when I was on the Home Depot website looking at different compressors, I saw that they give different ratings...I just want a compressor that is powerful enough (i'm guessing the maximum psi should be at least 150) so that I can have no problem working on cars/trucks. I saw a Coleman for $299 and I think the max psi was 150....Am I searching for the wrong factors? Do max psi matter or is it the SCFM @ XXX psi that matter?


http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gmk.0&MID=9876

this is a husky compressor and it seems pretty good for what I have intended uses for...

 

I was studying the Northern Hydraulics catalog the other day since I had the same surprise, bought a half inch impact wrench which didn't work as well as my old electric. The cheap air wrench I bought just barely will loosen the lugs on my 94 F250, and I do NOT over torque them to begin with and use antisieze. And even then I would say about 1/3 of those won't turn at all with the air wrench. I am very disappointed. Had to use my electric.

I bought a china special tool set that had all the goodies and cost only $79. But now I see why it was cheap. Pretty tools, but weak since they waste air. One other thing. The wrench I have has a forward exhaust which sprays oil mist all over whatever I am working on. I think the American ones have a handle exhaust which may spray all over me. I am guessing the American ones don't use as much oil tho.

From studying the catalogs... Apparently half inch impact wrenchs are not all the same. The el cheapo Chinese made ones seem to max out at something like 200 foot pounds and I kind of doubt that. There are expensive American made ones that go well over 500 foot pounds but they cost something like $300, using the same air and pressure. This is why I think the cheap ones are inefficient. Same air etc, but less power. I think the Ingersoll Rand in the Northern catalog is the one I am talking about, very nice. They even have a few 1 inchers that go over 1,000 foot pounds.

So sounds like you need to buy a quality wrench. The cheap ones just don't have the cojones. You get what you pay for.

Also make sure your compressor is up to the task. After asking around and looking at the specs on some of the tools I wanted, it looks like you need at least 5cfm at 90psi and at least 15 gallons or more capacity. If you skimp on any of these specs your tool may not work at all or wil run slowly or run out of gas.

I bought a china special, Buffalo compressor with a 20g tank and something like 6cfm at 90 and upto 125psi. Seems like a nice compressor and up to the task, but time will tell. With the cheap tools I bought the compressor has plenty of capacity, but I think the tools inefficient in air usage as my comparison of the wrenchs indicated. I will probably spring for some expensive American made ones soon, at least the impact wrench.

Oh and in your case 80psi won't work. I have a regulator and when I turn it down below 90, the impact wrench is useless.

Just my opinion and another reason I buy American if my head isn't in Scrooge mode.

Jim Henderson

 

Yes, the SCFM is what you care about. You need to have the compressor to be able to keep up with the need of the tool. The link you sent doesn't work. Is this Husky a no oil model? If so, they are louder than heck and usually use universal motors.

 

> What brand do you guys recommend?

For impact tools, snap-on, blue point, or IR have been "very very good to me". I have snapped 1/2" wheel studs and bolts with Snap-On and IR impacts (on purpose and by accident). Once I even busted a few bolts on Expedition trailer hitches by accident when doing the recalls. If you have the volume, you will not regret a Snap-On or IR purchase.

If you want to be able to handle lugnuts on F-350/E-350 vehicles here is what you need at a minimum (what I bought from experience).

compressor 90 psi at 6 cfm 20 gallons, I have a coleman and have it set at 100 psi, with the pressure drop in the 100 feet of hose it equals about 90 psi with the tool running at the hose end. I measured with a truck gauge.

IR2131 1/2" (? might not be the model #) handles 600 ft pounds forward and reverse, composite handle with cover.

Blue Point 1/2" impact - good for lugnuts and light duty stuff you do not want to break off or send flying in reverse.

100 feet 3/8 air line

Do not use that 1/4" coil line! Hook up the impact gun directly to the big hose! If the hose is not big enough then it becomes a bottle neck to volume.

The volume in the hose is what actually feeds the gun for the first few seconds, then you get bottle necked at the compressor's 1/4 fittings again. An impact running requires 25 cfm, unless you have a commercial quality set up, the hose has to supply this volume in the first few seconds.

After this, the compressor simply can not keep up or push enough volume through its stock 1/4" fittings at 100 psi to supply an impact sucking down 25 cfm.

imo, Volume output is the same sham as HP ratings. Unless the compressor has large enough fittings along with hose fittings it can not put out the advertised "specs".

 

A couple of things about air compressors, ignore the bogus hp ratings and dont get one too powerful for your garage electrical system. If you have an old house with one 20 amp fuse for the garage, dont even condsider one of those monster compressors. It was implied, but not stated yet, never use extension cords. I have a 30 year old Sears that has worked well and not overtaxed the wiring in a 1946 house. It is belt drive, two cylinder cast iron, with a TRUE 1hp motor (13a@120v, convertible to 240v) and a 12 gallon tank.

Jim

 

I have a Craftsman 30 gal upright with a 2hp motor. It's a 110v and rated at 6.4 SCFM @ 90 psi, with a max pressure of around 160psi. It's a couple of years old and so far, I have no complaints. It's perfect for the "backyard mechanic". My air tolls are either Snap-On or MAC, and it handles my impact and air rachets with no problem. It struggles to keep up with my air chisel, but luckily I don't have to use it that often. And unfortunately, my air grinder and cut off wheel just absolutely destroy it. I can only run them about 3 minutes before they're useless. Luckily, I have electric grinders for primary use !!!!

 

A little compressor that maxes out at 80 psi and has a small tank is going to be useless for most air tools. It might be at 80 psi when you pull the trigger, but a second later you're going to be at 60-something psi with no torque. Ideally, you want to have a good size tank (20 gal or more) and 135 to 175 psi of air that is regulated down to 90-100 or so for your tool. The exact setting of the regulator will depend on length and size of hose since you really need 90 psi at the tool end of the hose. With this setup, you have full power to the tool at least as long as your tank pressure is over 100 psi. In the best of all possible worlds, the duty cycle of your tool usage will be just enough that your compressor is keeping the tank pressure always above 100 psi.

You need proper air hose too. Those cheapo yellow plastic 1/4" coil hoses they give away with portable compressors are good for using a blow gun and filling tires, but not your wrenches (save perhaps a 1/4").

If it's in your budget, try to get an oil-lubed, belt-driven, cast iron compressor, as they last longer and are much, much, much quieter than the high-rpm direct-drive oil-less types (which are usually cast aluminum).

 

One place to check out for a decent price on air tools is the local pawn shops and flea markets if you have any nearby. I got my IR 1/2 imact at the local flea market for about 40.00. Took it home and promptly stripped all the rusted up parts off the front suspension on a donor chevy I was stripping out. It works great and was no where near new cost. Just keep in mind that you need to check them out pretty close so you don't get burnt.

 

Ditto to what the other members have mentioned. Have simular 'setup' as tekesq and also find it works well for majority of machanic projects. Found some of the cheaper air tools can require up to twice the amount of CFM to operate than the same air tool of better quality. Painted my truck using the 'setup' and purchased paint gun requiring the lease amount of CFM to operate. Still found the compressor ran the entire time. Fortunately, have understanding neighbors. Learned to shop for air tools that are within the compressors application. Many of the body air tools, particularly sanders, require great deal CFM to operate. Had a cheap orbital sander that would come to a stop as soon as it hit the surface of the metal. As other members have noted, go for best bang for the buck w/out having to worry about tripping circuit breakers, taking into consideration tank size, psi, cfm, etc.

dave

 

Air orbital sanders find use in fabrication and body shops, but that's one tool that the average DIYer is better off getting as electric. It's more efficient and a lot quieter, especially when you consider your compressor will be running near continuously in addition to the sander's own exhaust and vibratory noise.