Aerostar Ford Aerostar

95 Aerostar rough idle/jerky acceleration

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Old 04-15-2006, 06:23 PM
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95 Aerostar rough idle/jerky acceleration

Wow, new to group. Ton's of info, but I can't find my problem after 2 hours of searching, so I posting. Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. Any suggestions? I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I live in L.A., I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else?
Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I misssing?
 
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Old 04-15-2006, 07:31 PM
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:28 PM
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I had to remove my cup holder to get interior engine shroud off and it still wasn't easy. who knows, maybe I'm still doing it wrong.
 
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:37 PM
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It is tough, but the more you do it, the more easier it gets. Try pulling it as much towards you as possible, then pull down, repeat until out. I have to pull the cup holders out and make sure that I clear the gasket that goes around the access panel. The computer mounted under the radio also gets in the way. It takes some getting used to. I can pull mine in and out in probably 7-10 mins. Wiggling helps also. You should have OBD-I (please, correct me if I'm wrong) and access to it can be attained under the hood.
 

Last edited by Lance1601; 04-15-2006 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:54 PM
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I always have to remove both the cup holder on the floor and the ABS computer hanging below the radio. Fortunately, it doesn't have to come off very often.
 
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:15 AM
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Welcome aboard!

'95 was the year that Aerostars went OBD II mid year. Look for a covered socket at the bottom of the dash, directly below the steering column.

1st step is to have codes read, free at Advance, Autozone, etc. Post codes to to the board for answers, there are experts here!

2nd step is tune-up with Motorcraft/Autolite plugs and wires. Other brands don't last very long on Aerostar. I don't expect more than 50-60,000 miles between tune-ups, so sounds like you are due.
 
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:07 PM
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Unhappy thanks

Thanks for the help. I have an OBD II scanner that I use for the our Saturn. I couldn't find anything that looks like the socket under the dash directly under the steering column (or anywhere else under the dash) or anything under the hood. The local parts guy couldn't either. I guess it's off to the dealer tomorrow. Maybe the optometrist too.
 
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:07 PM
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father,
do the Seafoam and decarbon at night, stealth works better in the dark

most '95 Aero's are OBDI EEC-IV with the code reader socket under the hood.

from Autozone side:
On your 1995 FORD TRUCK AEROSTAR 2WD, the ASSEMBLY LINE COMMUNICATIONS LINK is:


UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, UPPER FIREWALL, MOUNTED IN
CORNER

what it looks like

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; 04-16-2006 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:18 PM
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Also that plug you see in the picture will probably not be very visible until you pull it out of its protevtive cover, that black plastic thing that says EEC test.
 
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Old 04-17-2006, 05:16 PM
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70,000 miles between tune ups is far too long. Should do a tune up every 2 years or 25,000 miles, saves in gas in the long run.
 
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:32 PM
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Now that I saw!

Thanks everyone. I did see the eec cover under the hood. Too bad, I don't have a scanner for that.
I haven't found seafoam yet, but the cover of darkness sounds like a winner.
The owners manual says a tuneup every 90K or so (I may be wrong) That sounded way too long to me too, but until the last 300 miles, it's been running great. (we are original owners) I'm not sure if I want to lay on my back and remember the phrases my merchant marine stepdad used while I try to remove/replace the plugs and wires, especially on the passenger side. Is there any handy extension or other technique I should use, or (my wallet and I hate even contemplating this) would the dealer be a better option? I can change plugs when I can reach them, but laying in a contorted position flailing about may be too fun for an afternoon. I read about removing both tires and the interior shroud. Anything else?
 
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by father of five
I can change plugs when I can reach them, but laying in a contorted position flailing about may be too fun for an afternoon. I read about removing both tires and the interior shroud. Anything else?
Once I found them and figured which angle the socket went on, I can change all six from the hood opening. It isn't so bad once you find them.
 
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:25 PM
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Just being lazy

I just did some homework through past posts, and found many great ideas to get the job done. Should of done that first. I'm still going to call the dealer to see what they charge, just to see how much $$ I'll save.
 
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Old 04-17-2006, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by father of five
Thanks everyone. I did see the eec cover under the hood. Too bad, I don't have a scanner for that.....
There's a good chance that you can pull your own codes without a scanner if it's EEC-IV. I do it with mine. I've got a 93 aero and it has a plug that looks just like the one in that picture. Basically, you jumper the little grey connecter to a certain pin in the bigger connector and the error codes flash out on the check engine light. There’s a little more too it than that but I will not give you detailed instructions on how to do it because I don't have them. I barely know how to do it myself. Maybe somebody here can sufficiently explain it. If you haven’t already, I would head over to http://www.fordcds.com/ and download the service CD for your van. It should contain detailed instructions on pretty much everything.
 
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:04 AM
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My last tuneup (that I didn't do myself) included plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and cost me $293.00. That was at my local mechanic's place, not a dealer. I figure the price has gone up since 1999.
 

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