Father, I live in Orange County, CA and since we have to smog our vehicles every 2 years, I do my tune ups prior to going to the smog check. I would think it helps pass smog easier, and the van runs smoother and you get a good tune-up.

 

Using the great info on this forum, I replaced the spark plugs with Autolite double platinums, new Autolite wire set, bought gloves, spark plug socket with hex head, boot pullers, and a spark plug socket with a universal built in. 5 hours later, the 95 is running smooth. The number one plug had a big chunk of the insulator around the electrode cracked off. The other plugs looked okay but their gaps were all over .085. The local Ford dealer quoted me $700. I think he just didn't want the job, but it helped justify all the extra tools I now have!!!

 

I know this is an old post, but I'm having similar problems. Once the van starts, it idles very rough, sometimes stops. At idle when in drive, it idles rough but never shuts off. Unplug the MAF and it smooths out, for 30 seconds or so, then dies. After driving for about 10 minutes, the check engine light comes on, but I can't get it read at AutoZone because when I turn the van off, the check engine light clears.

I have cleaned the MAF with cleaner spray from AutoZone, installed a new MAF, cleaned the idle air control, but nothing makes any difference.

Any suggestions?

1995 Aerostar, 2WD, 4.0L, 285k miles

 

You don't need to run to autozone every time you have a CE light, here is a how-to with a couple pieces of wire or paper clips.


Ford Check Engine light Codes - FreeAutoMechanic

 

Once I turn the vehicle off, the code is gone, so I'm not sure how to capture it by the method you recommended or with a code reader.

 

It should still be in memory, if you run a KOEO and KOER it should give you more of an idea.


Otherwise you are just throwing parts at it with no guarantee it will fix it.