Engine lifting method
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 59
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Engine lifting method
I had a real tough time removing the 460 from my van because of the low clearance between the engine and the top of the compartment. When I put it back in I'll need to minimize the distance between the top of the hoist and the intake manifold. A lifting plate that bolts to the carb studs should work but will those studs hold the weight of the engine? This is the engine only (tranny stayed behind) but the downside is that it's an aluminum intake. The studs are 5/16's. Has anyone tried this?
I'm having nightmares where the studs pull out and my new engine crashes to the ground!
I'm having nightmares where the studs pull out and my new engine crashes to the ground!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
There are engine lifting plates sold that bolt to the carb pad on the intake for easy centered lifting of the engine. However I do NOT recommend using them for lifting the engine. 600+lbs on 4 tiny studs in aluminum is a risky deal. Use a bolt off the end of each head crossing the intake diagonally. You'll have the same clearance without the risk of stripping a stud or 4 out of the intake.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 675
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From: Springfield, OR
What you need is called the Steck engineout. It attaches to the front of the engine(after the water pump is removed) and you back it right out. You can see it at www.steckmfg.com or do a search on google and yu'll find it. Update-I just went to the site-it's under new tools section-and I dont see one listed for the 460 but it might be worth a call.
Last edited by T18skyguy; Apr 13, 2006 at 09:06 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 3
From: Oregon Coast
I have never had trouble wit the lift plates. I missed a bolt once while pulling the engine out of my dragster and picked up the whole car by the carb plate. Just an engine and trans is no problem.
Last edited by Hired Gun; Apr 23, 2006 at 10:30 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
I use the chain across the block like ivanribic. I also use a ratchet strap and keep it snug "just in case". It is a PITA but I pull the core support on my truck so everything goes straight in and I have more room to work (I'm old and fat").
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 3
From: Oregon Coast
I agree with ivanribic on the point of not using the studs. I never use carb studs as they don't engage enough threads for lifting an engine. I use four 1" long grade 8 bolts torqued to 20 pounds for engine lifting.
I have found that R&Ring an engine in my E-350 is way easier than any pickup but on a stock rig I never pulled a core support before. Then it would be the same as a van.
I have found that R&Ring an engine in my E-350 is way easier than any pickup but on a stock rig I never pulled a core support before. Then it would be the same as a van.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I always dump the front clip. It takes about 20 minutes to pull the clip and saves a TON of hassle on trying to clear everything when you pull the engine out. I'm too lazy to fight with it, plus that's over 5 feet high I have to get the oil pan to clear my radiator support.
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