Removing Front Brake Rotors
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Senior User
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From: Virginia Beach
Removing Front Brake Rotors
I tried removing one of my front brake rotors this evening, I have a pair of slotted/drilled rotors and a set of the Hawk HPS pads I obtained through a site sponsor.
The rotor appears almost WELDED to the hub, I smacked the back of it a few times with a large brass hammer and all it did was make a bunch of little dents on it...the rotor didn't budge.
Am I missing something here?? ...do I just need to put some more "UMPH" behind the hammer??
ALSO, I took one of the works of art better known as my new rotor and put it backwards on the lugs, with original rotor still in place (of course...I can't get them off!) and the hole for the hub is larger than factory and so are the holes for the lugs...how are these things going to center? I don't see how...so I don't think I'm going to use them, emailed the manufacturer for a resolution - also, am I missing something here?
Thanks for any assistance you guys can offer.
The rotor appears almost WELDED to the hub, I smacked the back of it a few times with a large brass hammer and all it did was make a bunch of little dents on it...the rotor didn't budge.
Am I missing something here?? ...do I just need to put some more "UMPH" behind the hammer??
ALSO, I took one of the works of art better known as my new rotor and put it backwards on the lugs, with original rotor still in place (of course...I can't get them off!) and the hole for the hub is larger than factory and so are the holes for the lugs...how are these things going to center? I don't see how...so I don't think I'm going to use them, emailed the manufacturer for a resolution - also, am I missing something here?
Thanks for any assistance you guys can offer.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Fort Fun
You might try to spray the connection with PB Blaster or a simlar penetrent. PB is my personal fave. Of course if your truck is your daily driver and you can't get em off, you are in a pickle. If worse comes to worse, very cautiously heat up the rotor with a torch. Remember there is flamable stuff up under there...standard disclaimer stuff. I don't think you will ruin the hub if you really wail on it.
When I did mine, the rotors took some coaxing with a 2 lb hammer but they came. I put a slight bit of anti sieze on the hub, not that I ever hope to have to take them off again. By the way, I LOVE my cryoed and slotted rotors and Hawk SD pads. The pads do put off more dust than before but they stop like a mother.
Good Luck.
Big
When I did mine, the rotors took some coaxing with a 2 lb hammer but they came. I put a slight bit of anti sieze on the hub, not that I ever hope to have to take them off again. By the way, I LOVE my cryoed and slotted rotors and Hawk SD pads. The pads do put off more dust than before but they stop like a mother.
Good Luck.
Big
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From: Virginia Beach
You used Hawd "SD" pads? I thought the HPS was the poop?? I hope they do better than the factory pads, I'm certain they will.
I've had to wail on rotors before to get them off, but I got a good 40-50 hits in on that sucker while rotating slowly...I started to worry I was going to doink up the wheel bearing/carrier - jeez!
I have several cans of Corrosion-X, supposed to be better than PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, etc. - maybe I'll try it over the next weekend.
I've had to wail on rotors before to get them off, but I got a good 40-50 hits in on that sucker while rotating slowly...I started to worry I was going to doink up the wheel bearing/carrier - jeez!
I have several cans of Corrosion-X, supposed to be better than PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, etc. - maybe I'll try it over the next weekend.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 491
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From: Fort Fun
Yeah, I went with the SD pads. I probably could have and should have gone with the HPS pads but I do tow heavy weights occasionally (like over 10k lbs) so I wanted the extra margin.
Good luck with that rotor. I was thinking about it last night too - I suppose if you torched the rotor, you might boil the gear oil that is in the hub. Be careful if you try it. It doesn't take a whole lot of heat to motivate metal. It will take a whole lot of heat to get that rotor up to temp but don't get it too hot!
Big
Good luck with that rotor. I was thinking about it last night too - I suppose if you torched the rotor, you might boil the gear oil that is in the hub. Be careful if you try it. It doesn't take a whole lot of heat to motivate metal. It will take a whole lot of heat to get that rotor up to temp but don't get it too hot!
Big
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From: Northwest OH
In order to break the rotor loose, you need to break it from the hub. They often look like they are welded together (And they are with rust and corrosion). I found the best way to get them off is to use a large regular (slotted) screwdriver and hammer to chisel the rust and corrosion from the area where the rotor and hub meet. The place you are chiseling is at the 90 degree angle. Once you strike it a few times, you will see the crap fly (And the subsequent gap left) and know what you are looking for.
Do that all the way around, then strike the rotor from the back with your hammer. It should come off with some moderate effort (I needed to re-use my rotors, so I used a rubber mallot).
Without chiseling first, forget getting them off easily. The Ford service software highly recommends against heating the area (I assume because of the rubber seals and things inside the hub).
Do that all the way around, then strike the rotor from the back with your hammer. It should come off with some moderate effort (I needed to re-use my rotors, so I used a rubber mallot).
Without chiseling first, forget getting them off easily. The Ford service software highly recommends against heating the area (I assume because of the rubber seals and things inside the hub).
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
What year and model truck do you have?
Some of the older heavy duty trucks had rotors that were press fitted onto the studs. My 94 F250 heavy duty has this type rototr. Other models are not attached by the studs, the rotor just "floats" on the hub and is usually held in by some retaining washers or just the caliper.
I assume you checked that there are no retaining lock washers around the studs holding the rotors in place.
To remove the old style press fitted rotors, you need to remove the studs. This is supposed to be done with a hydraulic press. It can be done with a piece of metal(I used another flat sided hammer) against the stud acting as an anvil and pounding the piece of metal with a small but heavy sledge hammer. Once the studs are removed the rotor should fall off, maybe with a whack or two with a rubber mallet. Maybe you already are at this point and still have a stuck rotor. You might try heating the rotor around the hub with a torch and whacking it with a mallet. You should probably replace the seals and regrease the bearigns if you have gone this far.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Some of the older heavy duty trucks had rotors that were press fitted onto the studs. My 94 F250 heavy duty has this type rototr. Other models are not attached by the studs, the rotor just "floats" on the hub and is usually held in by some retaining washers or just the caliper.
I assume you checked that there are no retaining lock washers around the studs holding the rotors in place.
To remove the old style press fitted rotors, you need to remove the studs. This is supposed to be done with a hydraulic press. It can be done with a piece of metal(I used another flat sided hammer) against the stud acting as an anvil and pounding the piece of metal with a small but heavy sledge hammer. Once the studs are removed the rotor should fall off, maybe with a whack or two with a rubber mallet. Maybe you already are at this point and still have a stuck rotor. You might try heating the rotor around the hub with a torch and whacking it with a mallet. You should probably replace the seals and regrease the bearigns if you have gone this far.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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From: Northwest OH
The rotors that I described are the 99+ "floating" type that after a while are not floating anymore - they get stuck on there...seriously stuck on there. The chisel technique works, believe me.
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From: Virginia Beach
OK, I'll buy that Dsl Lover, I've had to whack the bejesus out of rotors before, but this one seems "special" - read as ANNOYING! 
Jim, I have a 2003 PSD...no lock washers or retaining screws.
Now, you guys say these are "floating" rotors?? Not the type of "floating" rotors I'm familiar with as these are usually two piece units that have an aluminum/fabricated hat with slots instead of holes for the bolts that go through the rotor, allowing the circumference to expand contract and essentially allowing the rotor to float.
The lugholes on the new rotors are probably 2mm larger than the factory ones...and the opening for the hub/dust cover is larger than the hub by a couple mm as well, so I don't see how this rotor will ever be centered...besides, it shouldn't be able to "float" as it's the wheel that holds it in place. I simply don't understand how my new rotors will center and they will probably "wobble" vice "float"!
Jim, I have a 2003 PSD...no lock washers or retaining screws.
Now, you guys say these are "floating" rotors?? Not the type of "floating" rotors I'm familiar with as these are usually two piece units that have an aluminum/fabricated hat with slots instead of holes for the bolts that go through the rotor, allowing the circumference to expand contract and essentially allowing the rotor to float.
The lugholes on the new rotors are probably 2mm larger than the factory ones...and the opening for the hub/dust cover is larger than the hub by a couple mm as well, so I don't see how this rotor will ever be centered...besides, it shouldn't be able to "float" as it's the wheel that holds it in place. I simply don't understand how my new rotors will center and they will probably "wobble" vice "float"!
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From: USA
After using pb or what ever let it sit for about 5 mins ,then take a big punch or piece of steel and go around the front face between the lugnut area with the hammer and punch.I use my air hammer with a blunt stub on it. A couple times and it pops free.
I don't like using torches on this area too much.
Don't like whacking on the back side of the rotor because you are sending the shock towards the bearings.
This is a 4x4 truck right
Rich
The hub will center the rotor not the lugs
I don't like using torches on this area too much.
Don't like whacking on the back side of the rotor because you are sending the shock towards the bearings.
This is a 4x4 truck right
Rich
The hub will center the rotor not the lugs
Last edited by FortyFords; Apr 10, 2006 at 04:02 PM.
Senior User
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From: Northwest OH
Don't worry about the bolt holes centering. It rides on the center hub - that fit should be snug. By floating, I simply meant that they are not directly held in place by anything (Other than the wheel). They are supposed to be free to come off once the wheel & caliper is off.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,326
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From: Gilbert
I just upgraded my rotors/pads last weekend as well (w/ the powerslots/hawks) and had to beat the heck out of the driver side rotor. It did dent the crap out of the factory rotor but it was garbage anyway. Took a little while but it finally worked itself loose. Also, make sure to put those slotted rotors on the correct side!
My Powerslots were a bit loose when I first put them on but once you torque down the lugs, everything tightens up!
My Powerslots were a bit loose when I first put them on but once you torque down the lugs, everything tightens up!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Cape Cod MA
Just did them last Wednesday. Whack the front of the rotor between the studs then adround the hub then the back side of the rotor turning it after every blow,it will come off. I was expecting to use some heat but was pleasantly surprised when they slid off after a few sessions with the ballpeen.
JMACC
JMACC
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Massachusetts
I did my brake a few weeks ago. The rotors were "welded" to the hubs. I used PB Blaster and let them soak for 1/2 hour and gave them some taps with a 3lb sledge hammer and them came off like buttah!
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From: Virginia Beach
Alrighty then, sounds like we have a general consensus of what needs to be done...I guess when I return home on Thursday I'll give it another whack...or two. (pun intended)
Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it, I'll let you know how the Powerslots w/Hawk HPS pads workout.
Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it, I'll let you know how the Powerslots w/Hawk HPS pads workout.
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From: Virginia Beach
Just to update this thread, I took one of the front wheels off the other day to give the rotor another whack or two and realized there was a dust cap on the spindle...I removed the caliper and mounting bracket, then the dust cap and retaining nut to get the rotor off.
Turns out the TWO WHEEL DRIVE F250s have a different rotor setup. The hub is integrated into the rotor hat just like trailer brakes have an integrated drum/hub with the tapered roller bearings.
I've contacted the manufacturer of the rotors and they agreed that I requested front rotors for a two wheel drive and have shipped another set out to me, no charge...
I have 60K on this truck, and the bearing races will be new...I'm thinking I should obtain new bearings/seal from Ford - would you agree?
Turns out the TWO WHEEL DRIVE F250s have a different rotor setup. The hub is integrated into the rotor hat just like trailer brakes have an integrated drum/hub with the tapered roller bearings.
I've contacted the manufacturer of the rotors and they agreed that I requested front rotors for a two wheel drive and have shipped another set out to me, no charge...
I have 60K on this truck, and the bearing races will be new...I'm thinking I should obtain new bearings/seal from Ford - would you agree?