Fuel Tank Selector Valve
#286
If you can't hear the in-tank pumps run in either position you won't get it to run. If you take the tan with light green stripe wire at the test connector and ground it the selected fuel pump and high pressure pump will run continuously as long as the key is on. I would disconnect the high pressure pump while doing this so it isn't running. It will make the in-tank pump easier to hear, and if you aren't delivering fuel to it, keep from burning it up.
#287
If you can't hear the in-tank pumps run in either position you won't get it to run. If you take the tan with light green stripe wire at the test connector and ground it the selected fuel pump and high pressure pump will run continuously as long as the key is on. I would disconnect the high pressure pump while doing this so it isn't running. It will make the in-tank pump easier to hear, and if you aren't delivering fuel to it, keep from burning it up.
I disconnected the new pump on the frame and can hear the new in-tank pump run (I dropped the front tank, cleaned it and replaced the entire pump assembly.) When switched to the rear tank, the in-tank pump isn't turning on (at least I can't hear it.) I'm not getting fuel to the front pump, I'm guessing it's the selector valve not allowing fuel from the front tank to the front pump, because I can hear it priming. Is that possible/makes sense?
Forgot to add, it's an '89 E250, 351. Guessing based on the inspection sticker it's been sitting for 10 years.
#288
#289
86 f250 with a 7.3 idi
hello yes they did an engine and tranny swap but wanting to know the exact way the lines are on the fuel tank selector valve. the two ports going horizontal has pump on one side then I flip it over and it says front. Got the truck with only front tank working, found out they bypassed it and just used the front tank and I want both tanks to work. is there a diagram out there that could tell me something? nope I don't have a book it yet
#290
From what I remember on ones I have seen, there are a total of 6 tubes on the selector valve/reservoir. 3 large and 3 small. It will only fit the frame one way, the outlet to the HP pump and return from the engine will face forward, as far as the tank side, the lines probably will only easily connect one way. As long as the supply and return lines at each set of fittings (large and small) go to the same tank you are ok. I will look and see if I have any kind of diagram, if so I will post it for you.
#291
Hey guys,
First time posting here...
I just bought an 89 F-250; the from tank leaks, won't take gas at the pump, gets filled from the other tank while driving and the sending unit is shot, I'd like to just ditch it altogether. I'm ASSuming after reading through this thread the front tank is getting filled because the selector valve is bad. If I'm only going to run the rear tank can I just bypass the valve? If yes, is their a simple-ish way to bypass it?
I'd hate to buy the darn thing if I'm going to eliminate the front tank. Sorry if this has been answered, I couldn't find an answer to my question with the search function.
The truck isn't a DD, it's only used for projects, so fuel capacity isn't a concern.
Thanks, Jim
First time posting here...
I just bought an 89 F-250; the from tank leaks, won't take gas at the pump, gets filled from the other tank while driving and the sending unit is shot, I'd like to just ditch it altogether. I'm ASSuming after reading through this thread the front tank is getting filled because the selector valve is bad. If I'm only going to run the rear tank can I just bypass the valve? If yes, is their a simple-ish way to bypass it?
I'd hate to buy the darn thing if I'm going to eliminate the front tank. Sorry if this has been answered, I couldn't find an answer to my question with the search function.
The truck isn't a DD, it's only used for projects, so fuel capacity isn't a concern.
Thanks, Jim
#292
The other day my 89 F-150 302 started dying after running for maybe 5-10 minutes let it sit for 1/2 hour recrank run fine for maybe 2-3 minutes let cool for 30+ mins runs for maybe 1min.I was first thinking ignition moduke was heating up?But it sure felt like a lack of fuel.I got home and let it cool down for a couple of hours cranked right up and let it run till it died which took about 10mins and some rpms at the end to make it happen.I pulled a plug wire and got an old plug had the wife spin it blue/white spark .I purchased a fuel tester hook it up and let her run 30psi KOER should be about 50-60psi I thought and the pressure started to drop overtime.Fuel pump overheating?cause it did not matter which tank I figured high pressure on the rail.Installed pump bled system several times hard to crank and keep running.Changed relay actually ran alittle better not much no pressure at the rail under 10psi.I took off the line at the front of the DFR no fuel a dribble.I took off the inputs at the back of the DFR and had the wife turn on the ignition change tanks fuel poured.DFR ??So I have torn her down soaked in a carb bath but have a question about this oring I found sitting at the bottom of the filter bowl were does it go.I have read it goes in the return but how?
#293
I have found this 1983 Ford Bronco '84-89 Fuel Reservoirs pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net but I am to understand that their are valves in the bottom half on the roof of the bottom assembly that contain o/rings?It by all account appears the inlet valve may be missing this is the first time I had it off.It's a cavity but the ledge at the top does not represent any old glue residue so maybe one was never present mine just does not quite look like his.The other one is the return valve when I blow from the engine side 5/16'line of DFR air comes out that hole.Thanks for any input hoping to get this guy back together tomorrow.
#294
I put her together minus the o/ring I used a very thick o/ring for the bowl the OE just leaked and found why the previous owner put the thick one on .The issue or one of the issues was the o/ring up top that likes to swell from use and ethanol fuels they say.I drilled the the o/ring first which it promptly closed on itself so got the exacto knife to finish the job.The valves themselves were very gummed up cleaned them and oiled with 3-1oil moved up and down easily.The FP was 32-34psi idling and crept up to 38 (or so) psi under acceleration.I let her idle for 10-15 mins before driving pump the accelerator to 2-3K rpms never thought about shutting down as before then drove her about mile got up to 4th no issues and used both tanks.I think though in the next month or two I will order a new DFR off of Amazon I feel this could be temporary.Just wanted to post the efforts and results as they appear ATTM.Cheers Kevin
addendum:I have had the truck for 7wks now and it just turn 84K.I changed the oil,air,fuel and now both window motors W/speakers.I drove her hard this afternoon/evening turning tires in first,bark in second and a snap in third I was turning some rpms to see if if she sputtered never thought about it!I am going with this valve till February do not think I trust several hundred trip and more ethanol on a repair o/ring.
addendum:I have had the truck for 7wks now and it just turn 84K.I changed the oil,air,fuel and now both window motors W/speakers.I drove her hard this afternoon/evening turning tires in first,bark in second and a snap in third I was turning some rpms to see if if she sputtered never thought about it!I am going with this valve till February do not think I trust several hundred trip and more ethanol on a repair o/ring.
Last edited by javlin; 12-27-2015 at 05:33 PM. Reason: hard driving results
#295
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