Nope. No spindle nut is needed. The Mile Marker site said the same thing about mine, but no replacement was needed.

 

welcome to FTE wolfnfire

Are you thinking of Warn, MileMarker, or another brand?
I can answer for Warn part no 11690 on trucks like ours because I had that same question, and the answer is no. I did not need the conversion kit.
My best, not-completely educated understanding is that that note about the conversion kit may be kind of a carry-over from the period in Ford's production when the old 92-97 style bodies overlapped a bit with the ramping up of 99-forward generation Super Dutys coming on.
All of this is based of course on the assumption that your '01 is identical to my '03; and I'm pretty comfortable with that assumption.
I've got a bunch of pictures with brief captions on the job you can find on my profile page if you want to cycle through them. The contributions of all the other members really helped me out, so I've tried to make some effort at a little something to add and help flesh out the subject just a little more.
Welcome again to FTE. I'm not always here, but I do always love it when I can visit. I'm sure you will too. Lots of great folks with a lot of brains, talent and experience.

 

Thank you guys for your responses about not needing the conversion kit, i appreciate the help and information! That will save me some money. I am gonna go with the Mile marker hubs it's the best price for my budget at $89.50 plus shipping from Summit racing. I will check out your profile page, if I can find it...LOL! My old hub may be hard to get off it is jammed between lock and auto but closer to auto. Some of what I think is the rubber seal or gasket is squeezing out from around where the hub is! I am hoping maybe tapping on it with a rubber mallet after the retaining ring is off will do the trick!

 

They might be a bit bitchy to get off, I used a pair a channel locks and gently worked them back and forth.

It took me longer to get all my tools together than it did to actually do the job.

 

Whats the difference between a Ford Manual Hub and a Broken Ford Auto Hub? (AFAIK nothing...)

 

Hello again, I attempted to install the Mile Marker hubs on my truck today and it didn't go very well. I am hopeing someone has some advice! I got everything installed on the driverside no problem, the hub turns from free to lock position and back! The problem is with the passenger side, after i have everything together and I turn the hub position from free to lock there is a click then it won't let me turn it back to the free position? Could something be wrong with the new hub? I even tried interchangeing the new hubs from one side to the other and the caps also. No mater which side it's on or which cap I use it does the same thing! I am stumped! I am gonna try and call the tech dept at Summit Racing (where I got the hubs) tommorow! I just went ahead and left the new hubs in until I find out what the problem is! Didn't disconnect the vacuum lines until I am sure I can! Any ideas or similar problems?????

 

The high points on the hub itself have to match up with the low point on the inner hubs. Take the outer hub off, rotate it so the low and high points match up, then screw it down. Usually you only have to rotate it one screw hole in either direction. The same thing happened to mine and that's how I fixed it.

 

Yep, check this. Also, don't call Summit. Call Mile Marker directly. They are really good to deal with.

 

OK i need to know if anyone else is having problems with the warn premium hubs??????? already warrantied them out once and now i have damn near complete melt down on passenger side and they both need to go back AGAIN!!!!!! they were between 250 and 300 bucks and are COMPLETE CRAP!!!! so what other products are out there that i need to be looking into? i guess what I'm asking is what is everybody else running in the 350 supers??? (i will say i have warns in my bronco and love them) also just for the 411 i live 3 miles in on a rough dirt road (thats 6 miles a day) guess warn cant build a product for the f350 that can handle it?

 

Not good - I just ordered some warn premiums. I hope I have good luck with them on my X.

 

goood luck, the MM have NOT given me a prob yet

 

OK well here is my question. I have in my 04 stock manual hunbs and the big ol' lever on the floor and love being able to do 2 wheel low when needed. I think at 124K Its time for new hubs. My question is if I go with a new pair of Warn or whoever can I just leave them locked all the time and just pull the lever whenever I want. What harm could this cause. Should the front axle not be locked in at 80mph even with the t-case NOT ingauged. I am sure I would have some MPG loss but I only drive 18mi round trip to work everyday so I really am not worried about MPH and if I did I probably would have the truck. Just as I am getting older I guess I am getting a little lazy would be nice to leave the hubs locked up all the time and just pull the lever when needed like in my father in-laws dodge. Thanks

 

Just finished installing MM449ss hubs on my 2000 F250 superduty with no problems. Didn't need the conversion kit. A huge thanks to guzzle's guide. I researched and researced and based on the info I found I had a dana 50 axle. According to my research I needed the conversion kit as only the 60s didn't. Either I have a 60 axle or the 50's don't need the kit. Tested and the 4wd works perfect now. Now to find a set of '08 hubcaps to get ride of the 1'' recess.

 

Woo its been a while since I posted here or even stopped in for some reading, but I thought Id run this by you guys. I run 24/7 with my hubs locked in on my 2004 F250. Wasnt until recently that I started to notice a "grinding" noise come from the passenger side front wheel occasionally, never gave the hubs a thought, I was thinking more along the lines of the universal joint at the wheel as they were getting a little sloppy. Since I had to replace the ball joints anyways, I went ahead and changed the u-joints at that time as well but I still noticed the grinding occasionally and it would stop if I unlocked the hubs.
I stopped at NAPA today and bought a set of Warn hubs, read the instructions and that brought me to here lol
Instructions and this thread both say I have to disable the vacuum to the hub, but there is where I got confused. See when I bought my truck new, I had it back at the dealer a few times for a clunking noise in the front wheels when I was in 4 wheel drive and the service manager told me that the noise was from the hubs and I was hearing them disengage/engage under vacuum. I left it at that, now 8 1/2 years later I go to change the hubs due to that grinding noise and I'll be dammed if I cant find the vacuum line goin to the knuckle. Mine is already capped off at the knuckle. So the service manager was full of crap apparently, as my truck doesnt have hubs that say Auto/Lock on them, my factory hubs say Lock/Free....no need for vacuum lines to the knuckle.
I feel kind of stupid over this, but hell I never did anything to my truck up until I replaced the ball joints and u-joints, all work was done at the dealer or the off-road shop that installed my lift for me.
Bottom line, the instructions that come with the Warn hubs are not entirely correct, you do not have to disable the vacuum lines on ALL SD trucks, only the trucks with Auto/Lock hubs. The job is extremely easy as everyone here has said, just be sure you are working on the right component.
What bothers me more, is I called the local dealer and they even told me that if I dont install factory hubs I would have to disable the vacuum lines, so I asked "even if my hubs are Lock/Free and not Auto/Lock hubs?" and he said "Yes, definitely, all F250s had vacuum lines to the knuckle in 2004" LOL I think Im done with that dealer.
The stock hubs still look ok, just a bit dry. I probably couldve gotten away with just taking the hub apart and putting new grease on everything, but its a done deal now.
And for the record, I still to this day, have a clunking noise coming from the front end of the truck when in 4 wheel drive, that never went away.

 

chances are either the stealership or that offroad shop took the 5 min to remove the vacuum line to your hubs without you even knowing. Great thing they capped it off!