Water temp not going above 150
#46
03-09-2006, 05:58 AM
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'Stude,
Depending on your local water supply, tap water could be run, but NOT well water, due to the high mineral content. The ultimate would be distilled or purified water. However, I do NOT recommend just water for a street vehicle. I would run at least a minimum of 40 percent coolant, but I like at least 50 percent, for the reasons already listed.
If your radiator has been upgraded to a four-row core, there really is no reason to use a cap over 13 pounds. The old Ford truck radiators use a "bucket/tray-type" top header, and these are bad about flexing, causing the tank seam to fail. More pressure could speed up this process.
If you've mentioned this I've missed it, but does the truck ever boil-over? If it just spits out a little when it's parked, you could just add an overflow recovery bottle. Although this would give no added cooling system capacity, it keeps the radiator full by letting coolant back into the system rather than air after cool-down.
Johnny
Depending on your local water supply, tap water could be run, but NOT well water, due to the high mineral content. The ultimate would be distilled or purified water. However, I do NOT recommend just water for a street vehicle. I would run at least a minimum of 40 percent coolant, but I like at least 50 percent, for the reasons already listed.
If your radiator has been upgraded to a four-row core, there really is no reason to use a cap over 13 pounds. The old Ford truck radiators use a "bucket/tray-type" top header, and these are bad about flexing, causing the tank seam to fail. More pressure could speed up this process.
If you've mentioned this I've missed it, but does the truck ever boil-over? If it just spits out a little when it's parked, you could just add an overflow recovery bottle. Although this would give no added cooling system capacity, it keeps the radiator full by letting coolant back into the system rather than air after cool-down.
Johnny
#47
03-09-2006, 06:19 AM
Johnny,
I never tryed purified water, just tap water. I use around 40% of coolant in the radiator. Even the engine work at 210 oF, I never saw it boil-over. Some times it spits a litlle, but it's very uncommon. But this high temperature borrow me a lot. In the water pulley you don't recomend to change (reduce or increase diameter)?
I never tryed purified water, just tap water. I use around 40% of coolant in the radiator. Even the engine work at 210 oF, I never saw it boil-over. Some times it spits a litlle, but it's very uncommon. But this high temperature borrow me a lot. In the water pulley you don't recomend to change (reduce or increase diameter)?
#48
03-09-2006, 06:06 PM
Hotstude40, I may get jumped on a little here, but if all else fails, try doing a search on Flex Fans.
They are a line of stainless steel bladed fans that move HUGE amounts of air at idle. When you rev up, the blades flatten out and do not load the engine down. Also, when you are reved up, you are moving fast enough that you do not need the extra air from the fan.
I know that some people do not use them because they supposedly might fail and come apart. I had a plastic version on my '76 Torino Elite that came from the factory. After 15 years that I know of, and some very high rpms, it never failed.
Also, I know of some people who use them on their high performance engines both for the extra air and the load shedding effect at speed. Some of them have put the same fan on their third and fourth motors with no failure. I suspect it is a case of you get what you pay for. Cheap ones might not stand up.
However, most every maker of these things does recommend a shroud on the radiator.
But you need one of those anyway with any engine driven fan to get its full potential.
J.
They are a line of stainless steel bladed fans that move HUGE amounts of air at idle. When you rev up, the blades flatten out and do not load the engine down. Also, when you are reved up, you are moving fast enough that you do not need the extra air from the fan.
I know that some people do not use them because they supposedly might fail and come apart. I had a plastic version on my '76 Torino Elite that came from the factory. After 15 years that I know of, and some very high rpms, it never failed.
Also, I know of some people who use them on their high performance engines both for the extra air and the load shedding effect at speed. Some of them have put the same fan on their third and fourth motors with no failure. I suspect it is a case of you get what you pay for. Cheap ones might not stand up.
However, most every maker of these things does recommend a shroud on the radiator.
But you need one of those anyway with any engine driven fan to get its full potential.
J.
#49
03-09-2006, 07:41 PM
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J.
What you say about SS flex fans is right on the money. Just be sure that it is a full-flex. meaning the blades are the same width all the way from center to tip. The ones that taper to a point move hardly any air at idle, just at high rpm. Flex-A-Lite makes the full-flex variety, as well as Imperial and Hayden.
In addtion, a shroud is both helpful and necessary, with the blade being about half in and half out. I know that my '56 F-350 came with one from the factory.
Johnny
What you say about SS flex fans is right on the money. Just be sure that it is a full-flex. meaning the blades are the same width all the way from center to tip. The ones that taper to a point move hardly any air at idle, just at high rpm. Flex-A-Lite makes the full-flex variety, as well as Imperial and Hayden.
In addtion, a shroud is both helpful and necessary, with the blade being about half in and half out. I know that my '56 F-350 came with one from the factory.
Johnny
#50
03-15-2006, 07:58 PM
Originally Posted by 46yblock
Homespun,
The Summit order is laying here filled out. Just need to get the m.o. I sure hope the Mr. Gasket brand of Robert Shaw type thermo isnt back ordered. For anyone interested it is part number MRG-4364, brass and copper. There is a large list of motors the part number fits. I think they included FEs, certain years of Chrysler 318's, Plymouth 340s, to list a few. But if you ask for a thermostat to fit a 1956 292, they will tell you it isnt available.
I looked at Stewart Product's thermo, and was going to order it direct. But the minimum shipping equaled the stat's cost of 12.95. Closest dealer was in Washington so called them to order it. They didnt want to mess with it and gave me the Mr. Gasket number.
What a hassle.
The Summit order is laying here filled out. Just need to get the m.o. I sure hope the Mr. Gasket brand of Robert Shaw type thermo isnt back ordered. For anyone interested it is part number MRG-4364, brass and copper. There is a large list of motors the part number fits. I think they included FEs, certain years of Chrysler 318's, Plymouth 340s, to list a few. But if you ask for a thermostat to fit a 1956 292, they will tell you it isnt available.
I looked at Stewart Product's thermo, and was going to order it direct. But the minimum shipping equaled the stat's cost of 12.95. Closest dealer was in Washington so called them to order it. They didnt want to mess with it and gave me the Mr. Gasket number.
What a hassle.
So I have ordered one from Stewart Components, even with their 10.95 charge to ship ground. It is part number 305.
#51
03-17-2006, 07:55 PM
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#52
03-17-2006, 08:28 PM
This is the item. As you said Homespun it isnt made by Stewart components, but modified by them:
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...ory_Code=Therm
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...ory_Code=Therm
