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Another consideration:lubricated threads or dry? For instance, assuming NC threads 40 foot lbs intended to be a dry torque application. Lubricate the threads and torque with a wrench to 40 foot lbs and you put the equivliant of 56 foot lbs on the bolt. Grade, threads NC and or NF, dry vs lubricated all play a part. Get a good torque wrench, not one at Sears, an Armstrong, SnapON, Williams Ect. They work best in the mid ranges of the adjustment. When you are finished with it reduce the spring tension to the lowest setting, store it in a case and treat it like an instrument. In most cities any fastener supplier can line you up with a company to check your calibration. I just send mine back to Armstrong.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Jun-02 AT 08:25 AM (EST)]You can contact Angle Repair & Calibration in West Virginia also. I am pretty sure that is the company that Armstrong uses. Their number
is 1-304-253-5729. They have done work for my company and we were very happy with the results.
In the military all of our Torque Wrenches go to a PMEL (Precision Measurement Equipment Lab) but here is a trick I have found in the past. Borrow a wrench from someone who knows theirs is good (like a friend who works at a garage) and torque a bolt down with it. Then check it with your wrench. This will tell you if your wrench is going high. Then back off the bolt and torgque it with your wrench and check it with the borrowed wrench. This should tell You if Your wrench is going low. Has worked for me in the past.
Heck, I might as well put my two cents into the pot.
I was fortunate to work in a company with a metrology lab that was able to calibrate my torque wrenches for me. Ironically, the ones that were the closest to their indicated reading, when checked to their full range, were my cheapy Taiwan specials that cost in the $10.00 to $20.00 range. Their acuracies were closer than my $150.00 wrenches.
Something to think about.
My opinion, usually most torque wrenches you purchase are close enough and should give you acceptable torque, within allowable tolerance.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Jul-02 AT 10:50 PM (EST)]most torque give both readings---one for clean dry threads one for clean lubed threads the higher being the lubed.
Ihave tested torque wrinches with another torque wrench if they read very close they are most likley alright.
Bryan
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-02 AT 00:13 AM (EST)]I just want to point out something about the accuracy ( really the uncertanty) of torque wrenches. Look at the specs on your wrench and most likely you'll see the uncertainty is a percentage of full scale (fs), not the setting.
For example, if you have a wrench with a max reading/setting of 100 in/lb, and the stated uncertainty is +/-5%, that means +/- 5in/lbs at ANY setting/reading. It is not +/-5% of reading/setting. At say 25in/lb setting, and +/-5% fs uncertainty, that gives you a +/-10% of setting.
Use your torque wrenches in the top 1/3 of the range as a general rule to stay within reasonable uncertanty.
The snap action type wrenches should be exercised prior to use. Set the wrench to 60-70% of the required torque and place an old socket in a vise and click the wrench 3 or 4 times. Remember to always return the wrench to its lowest setting.
Torque wrenches can be calibrated, and should be periodically. In the military they went out every 6 months, or if they were dropped or abused. Dropping them on a hard surface will hork the calibration quite a bit. I'd bet the shock of a hefty bolt shearing won't do it any good, either.
Well, yeah I was. A good work ethic and some kind of competence under pressure (military always needs everything done yesterday) and they will *love* _you_. After all, you make the higher ups get good efficiency reports/OER's, meanwhile, you get to work weekends
But yeah. I was walking by a guy when he dropped a 0-150 in.lb torque wrench from the tail rotor on a UH60 onto the nice, soft concrete hangar floor. I picked it up, he thought I was going to hand it back to him. I took it to the tool room and had the guy red-tag it for turn in to calibration. Fumble fingers was pinging, "It's the only 0-150 we got right now 'cause everyone is in the field." The tool room guy (not the sharpest knife in the drawer, either) did mention to me it came back from calibration as *way* out.
If you get RTV into the bolt hole this will effect not only the torque reading, but, might end up snapping the bolt before it reaches the cover.
I have snapped diff. cover bolts before, the bolts get stressed I think because of the pressure the cover puts on them when the housing flexes under load while they stay still.