We rebuilt the oil cooler yesterday. We drained all ELC including block. Two people are ideal for re-installation, especially to guanantee proper front gasket installation. Removing the entire oil cooler is optimal. You can get both headers cleaned, and slightly lube the inside of each header for easy re-assembly. The single most important step is the gasket placement on re-installation. Take your time on this step. We removed battery box so we could clearly see the front gasket from top and bottom to ensure proper placement. We did not address front header bolts through wheel well cover, though we did have a 30" extension. You can easily get you hand in there with a short extension to loosen and tighten them. Someone underneath can watch wrench alignment so you stay straight on the bolts when addressing them. We also disconnected power because of the block drain plug above starter.

Allot plenty of time to complete rebuild, so you are not rushed. If possibly, have a helper for the re-installation of oil cooler. This will ensure you do not have a horror story like the ones I am sure you have already read about if you have done your research. No shortcuts, the risk is to great!

Hope this helps & thanks Raymond for the excellent help!

 

Did you use OEM, Dorman or another source for the gaskets and o-rings?

 

Like always, we ordered everything from Riffraff's. Buying from Riffraff's you guanantee you are buying QUALITY, and will not be repeating the job in the near future.

 

One less thing to worry about now

How did you clean and flush the cooler when it was off the truck?

I used loads of water with simple green until it was all clean and then multiple rinse/dry with acetone before reassembling.

There is probably an easier way, though it wasn't too bad

 

Simple green and REALLY hot water. Everything looked really good except those hard green orings.

 

Yeah, I hear that! I peeled mine off. They were more like old caulking than orings

I used a stiff plastic bristled brush, IIRC, to clean both the end pieces and get down into all the spots.

I was surprised when flushing how the flakes of crud just kept coming, even after I thought it was clean and clear.

I remember it as not being a very hard job, just time consuming with the flushing and cleaning, but from what I saw, it was time well spent.

Did you get a bunch of crud out of the cooling passages?

 

Did you install as one unit?
I will be replacing mine in the next week or two, new cooler, o-rings, gaskets, block heater, block heater cable, all OEM parts. Can oil cooler be installed as one unit, front and rear adapters pre attached or do I need to mount front adapter first? then cooler and
rear adapter.

 

No, they were perfect as was the heating element. The CAT ELC looked good but I replaced it and filtered and saved the old.

 

Yes I did.

 

Did you install block gaskets dry? How did you keep gaskets in place when
installing cooler assembly?

Thanks, Arne

 

Arne, you could use some engine assembly lube such as the stuff in the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8195.../dp/B000HBNVSK

 

I seem to recall someone using dental floss and a slip knot to tie them on and pull the knot once in place and before tightening.

 

The front gasket is the hardest. We first used lube to hold it in place unsuccessfully. Then because we had the air/battery box, intercooler pipe, and power steering hose out, we put the oil cooler in place and could reach down in front of it and put the gasket on with one bolt and then line it up with the second bolt and tighten. Doing that way the gasket and header stayed perfectly clean. The back gasket stayed on with the lube the whole time and was very easy.